13 replies to this topic

[Kamen]

I'm a nerf newbie, havent done any wars, only modded 2 NFs so far. My old NF (blue model) was getting about 50' (eyeballed, not measured) after pulling the air restrictors. My new gray/green NF has not fared so well. I carved out the air restrictors, glued the barrel back together with plumbers goop for that airtight seal, wrapped the plunger head in Etape and am using a bit of veggie oil as plunger lube. All this and I'm getting maybe 10' distance, seemingly worse than stock! Are the new model NFs just crap or did I bork something?

Also, what material would people here advise for a barrel on *this* gun, being a small springer? I've never done a barrel mod before but from what Ive read around the forums I'm thinking crayola/PVC nested?

[LastManAlive]

http://www.nerfhq.co...74;sa=showPosts

The not sure of the problem, but truely, it's been said that the old NF is way better than the new ones...I reallydon't care...I like the new ones just as much, sometimes better.

This mod can be down for the original also.

[BlueCrash]

Did you use any of that plumbers stuff on your blue NF? because that might be the problem. it seemed that you did more work than you had to.
As for the barrel material, definatley use the PVC. For crayola you have to sand/Dremel out these ridges in the marker tube for it even to work, which takes forever, and the end result isn't even as good as the PVC.

[Kamen]

I did not use plumbers goop on the old NF. It was an idea I got from a nerf forum, not this one, that making airtight seals between the various bits of barrel would improve air pressure behind the dart. the theory was sound so I decided to give it a go.

[BlueCrash]

ok, i think that you used a little to much goop for the gun, and the NF just isn't powerful enough for all of these airtight seals you're putting on it, and it actually slows down the plunger, resulting in the 10' range

[Kamen]

I doubt its a slowdown issue, as the plunger now snaps into place instantly (at least to the human eye) and much, MUCH faster than before I took out the air restrictors.

One thing I do notice on that list of posts and pics... The middle air restrictor, the one with an inner ring and an outer ring, in the pics the niner ring has been hollowed out, but is left in there. On my gun, I clipped out the inner ring entirely and cleaned the inside of the outer ring flush. I dont see how this would make a difference as that inner ring doesnt seem to affect airflow much either way but someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I suspect its my plunger seal, which I will tear apart and redo with a bit more Etape. but keep the ideas coming!

[DTReaper]

If you want better ranges with your current setup all I can add is that you should add some rubber bands to it to stop the problem of the plunger getting slowed by the airtight seal. Also adding a new barrel like CPVC, PVC, brass, PETG , or even copper (if it fits your darts well) will improve your ranges. Good luck on the gun.

-DTR

[BlueCrash]

Did you say that you put etape over where the o-ring goes? If so, rip it off because it just plain doesn't work... and go buy yourself a couple o-rings that fit at a hardware store

-and like DTR said, rubber bands should fix it if you can't find the problem

Edited by BlueCrash, 10 August 2006 - 09:22 PM.

[Kamen]

Sure enough, pulled the Etape off and my range went up a fair bit. Now I just gotta score myself a few O-rings and a better spring. Can someone advise what kind of spring to look for?

And for the record, the plunger is not slowed down in the slightest by the airtight seals along the barrel splits, any more than it would be by the airtight seal you get when you glue on a PVC barrel. My problem was a bad plunger seal against the pressure cylinder. Thanks Bluecrash!

Edited by Kamen, 10 August 2006 - 09:58 PM.

[ompa]

People leave that ring in so the plunger has something to hit, instead of hitting the cap, which then becomes more prone to flying off. With the seal, you should have a good one, but not to the point where it becomes difficult to move the plunger. Replacement springs might be tough to find; but if you add an o-ring, and have a good barrel-dart seal, you should be able to hit around 60-65' without any problems. You were right about the plumber's goop, more seal is always better; unless in very specific scenarios that I don't feel like going through now. But I will say that this is not one of them.

The plunger/airtight seal probably isn't the issue; it's the friction from the e-tape. I have pretty much an airtight seal, and it doesn't really affect the plunger, as you pointed out. As for barrel material, I would recommend brass if you want to use stefans, which I recommend. If you want stock darts, crayola/pvc will suffice.

~ompa

[General Cole]

I personally reccommend CPVC, easy to get and fairly easy to work with.

[TheVeg]

At my hardware store the good NF spring is #49 in the drawers. It is a little longer and a heck of a lot more powerful than the stock spring. As long as you don't dry fire it you should not have a problem with anything breaking. And bring the plunger tube to the hardware store, as I once bought an o-ring that looked fine but it was too big. I have a sweet NF with 2 o-rings, a big spring and a CPVC barrel and it rocks. With the strong spring you will want a tight fit with the barrel.
Good luck modding,

KLM a.k.a TheVeg

Edit: You want to go to a real hardware store like ACE, not Lowes or Home depot when you are buying springs and o-rings. There are much better choices there.

Edited by TheVeg, 11 August 2006 - 02:35 PM.

[Kamen]

Indeed, there is an Ace right up the street from me and I now have a #49 in my NF. It throws the streamlines from my longshot QUITE far. My only issues with Ace was that I couldnt find any sizes on the O rings. (NF uses 1", LS uses 1 3/8"), and that they dont have a good spring for the LS!

[shoeshine5]

If you are having problems finding cpvc, I would recommend a rose art marker. It doesn't have the internal ridges that the crayola does, so it makes for a much easier project.