247 replies to this topic

[Lancaster]

Nice job with the paint! Looks very slick. What kind of paint did you use?

Oh, and what would you suggest I use to bond my brass barrel to the bottom of the LS barrel? Epoxy? I don't have any, so....Hot glue wouldn't work, would it? How about PVC cement?

Edited by Lancaster, 04 September 2006 - 12:53 PM.

[nerfer34]

Nice job with the paint! Looks very slick. What kind of paint did you use?

Oh, and what would you suggest I use to bond my brass barrel to the bottom of the LS barrel? Epoxy? I don't have any, so....Hot glue wouldn't work, would it? How about PVC cement?

He probably used Krylon Fusion (by far the best paint for plastics).

I recomend either using epoxy or plumbers goop.

[Lancaster]

Nice job with the paint! Looks very slick. What kind of paint did you use?

Oh, and what would you suggest I use to bond my brass barrel to the bottom of the LS barrel? Epoxy? I don't have any, so....Hot glue wouldn't work, would it? How about PVC cement?

He probably used Krylon Fusion (by far the best paint for plastics).

I recomend either using epoxy or plumbers goop.

Okay, I'll have to pick some epoxy up.



I just put my LS back together for the second time, but this time I added two springs to the gun. They are both the same diameter, so I stacked them inside of the LS spring. They end up being about the same length of the LS spring. They are both pretty thin diameter wise, they hug the plunger pretty tight. And now, the gun won't cock. Would you suggest I put in a smaller, more powerful NF sized spring? Or should I take one of these out? Is it the spring at all?



I shudder at the thought of removing all those screws again...

[General Cole]

Your problem is probably that the wire is stacked right ontop of each other to the point that you cannot pull the plunger because the wire wonlt let if contract anymore. ANNOUNCEMENT TO ALL- Can I buy some PTEG, About a foot or so?

[SPU-Nerf]

I am wondering did you cut the barrel? because I am thinking about doing this, but it looks a little short?.
Thanks!


Stormleader

I didn't cut the barrel, just used the barrel from the front gun part and tossed out the original barrel.
Had to dremal out a ridge in the connector part of the main gun so the longer barrel would fit.
So in other words there is only one barrel now.
Hope that helps because I don't want to open up the gun again.

[Stormleader]

Thanks!, that's all I needed.


Stormleader

[CaptainSlug]

Nice job with the paint! Looks very slick. What kind of paint did you use?

I masked off the grey areas of the gun, sprayed a light coat of blackboard paint, light sanding, another light coat, and more light sanding. The finish of blackboard paint is very durable and flat. Which is what I wanted. The other colors were done with a very thin vinyl dye spray paint which does a very good job of dying plastics. I'll have more pictures of the finished paintwork once I start a new thread to show the foregrip mod I'm still working on.

Andfor those worried: Yes it is very time consuming to disassemble and reassemble this gun. A complete dissection takes atleast an hour, and a complete reassembly takes another hour. Just taking the shell apart can take 20 minutes.

And when choosing a secondary spring you have to use one with a compressed length similar to the stock spring so that you can pull the plunger all of the way back in the priming cycle.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 04 September 2006 - 10:31 PM.

[General Cole]

Could everyone post a pic showing their CDTS and the range and mods they did to their LS to get this range with their darts. Those from geddon know it, but I put insane amounts of glue on my darts tips, stephans or net.

[CaptainSlug]

The plunger face was getting seriously beaten out of shape when I added a second spring to and the stock O-ring wasn't giving me a very good seal. So I decided to try making a replacement, and I had something on hand that Carbon is familiar with.
A 1-1/2" neoprene fender washer. Which I sandwhiched between two 1-1/4" steel washers plus a finishing washer and then screwed the combination onto the stock plunger rod.
DON'T DO THIS UNLESS YOU CAN FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF WHAT WORKS. I don't know where to get the right size or type of rubber washer. I'm tired of getting asked about this

The seal improvement is incredible and I no longer have to worry about the plunger face beating itself up enough to impede on the o-rings. The effect on ranges was very appearant but I didn't do any numerical testing between the two because my main intent was to strengthen the plunger.
replacing the stock trigger plate spring also eliminated the mis-fires I was having occasionally.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 01 February 2009 - 05:46 PM.

[The Inventor Guy]

Recently, my Longshots have come in, thanks to Ryan.
I've removed restrictors, increased the effectiveness of seals, replaced the spring with that of a Maxshot's and even replaced the barrel with 9" of Alminium tube. It's all great besides some misfeeding problems - one of which was a modification flaw which I have mended, but the other is with the magazine.
As simple as the resolution may be, I cannot get my longshot to feed short stefans! By short, I mean 1 3/5" in length. The trouble is, sometimes I can feed and fire one sometimes two darts, but the rest of the darts in the magazine will flip or jam the feeding inside the magazine.
To rememdy this I tried using CDTS's, this worked. I also tried longer stefans, ie 2". These work too, but sometimes the same things happen.
Are there any suggestions to what I could do to fix this issue? ie modification of a magazine?
I don't really want to spend extra money on making longer stefans exclusively for the longshot, or even Dart Tag refills, so I'm hoping there's a way around this.

Thanks in advance,
-Tidge.

[Uncle Hammer]

This should do the trick. You might have some added pressure to the plunger tube after adding a new spring which causes it to push forward a bit.

[nerfer34]

Well I'm modding my LS to shoot stefan micros but I'm a little confused how to do it..... I've heard of how to do it but then someone told me not to do it....

I'm definitly adding a barrel replacement but I am wondering where do I start it? THANKS

[Lancaster]

I think my heart has finally stopped racing. I thought I had broken my LS for sure. In case the bolt on anyone's gun is making it difficult to place their magazine in, I think I may have found the problem. When you put on the plunger cap (is that what you call it? The thing the o-rings are around, anyway) after a spring replacement, make sure that it is on all the way. When you put it onto the plunger itself, it may seem like it is on, but it might not be on all the way. Just give it a little more push, and it should give you a satisfying click as it snaps into place. Mine was not on all the way, so the bolt was pushed forward about a centimeter further. My magazine would not fit. I'm not sure if this will work for everyone, but now I do not have to cut my magazine at all.

[CaptainSlug]

Yeah, the plunger face only fits on one way. The slots on the backside of the face have to match up with the teeth on the plunger rod or else your assembled plunger will be the wrong length.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 19 April 2007 - 11:35 PM.

[Lancaster]

I got sick of all the complications I was getting from the spring I inserted, so I went ahead and took it out. I reassembled the gun and it seemed to work great. Right up until, during the middle of a skirmish, it started freaking out. When I push the bolt forward with emphasis, the gun fires by itself. If I do it nice and gentle, it tends not to.



What part of the gun is out of place or damaged, do you think? The only modification to the gun is the AR mod. I removed the replacement spring. Granted, I don't have all the original screws for the plunger and pressure chamber. They...uh...*AHEM*



Were misplaced.



Not by me.



I guess.

[General Cole]

There is where your problem is. I keep all of my screws on a magnet so I don't lose them.

[elf avec gun]

Wow General Cole, the magnet thing is a really good idea Ive always used a dixi cup or small bowl, but if I accidentally hit it I lose screws. Thanks again!!!

[General Cole]

General Announcement! Could I buy enough PTEG to PTEG two LSs? I would pay 80 cents per foot. That would make you money if you used the link on NH for 100ft for 75. Thank you and goodnight, oh yeah, I would still prefer a 10 shot clipped X-bow over a LS anyday.

[sam]

You'd probably only need two feet to mod two longshots, also you'd be better off posting in this in the trading section.

[Lancaster]

Woah, hold on here. Is the answer to my problem "you shouldn't have lost the screws"? Is there some way I can solve this? Is there some other factor that could be causing this?

[PvtMcFlurry]

Sorry for reviving a dead topic but I have questions. I am dying to modify my gun but I can't comprehend what is going on in all these pictures. I would like to keep the stock barrel. Just remove the AR. I do not want to add another spring because I'm not really looking for xbow ranges. Also has anyone figured out a homemade clip yet?

[NiteWalker]

Hey, aren't you the guy on NHQ asking for mod write-ups for every gun you might want? Anyways, just look around this topic and you'll find how to take out the AR's. It's common logic that you don't HAVE to add another spring. So, follow Carrtoon's steps in the first pages and just keep you ls spring in there.

[PvtMcFlurry]

I have this gun and I've read all 14 pages of this thread and can still not understand what is going on.

[sam]

Read the first post. Have you modified a gun before? If you haven't I would not recommend starting with this gun get a Nite finder or something simpler?

Edited by sam, 07 October 2006 - 09:42 AM.

[PvtMcFlurry]

I have modded about 10 nf's and a scout and tried a maveric but destroyed it. I am going to a war on sunday and I want to have the AR out of my longshot.