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At2k Air Stock Problems

Hopefully carrtoon can help me!

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#1 nerfer34

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 04:12 PM

OK I attempted the air stock mod to my air tech 2000. I sliced the yellow tube and put a T conector with 1/4 inch tubing. Now I pump my at2k and the air only flows towards the stock. And it isn't even that powerful. Can someone please help?! Here are some pics.
pic 1
pic 2
tubes up close
whole gun

Thanks.
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#2 Carrtoon

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 04:34 PM

OK I attempted the air stock mod to my air tech 2000. I sliced the yellow tube and put a T conector with 1/4 inch tubing. Now I pump my at2k and the air only flows towards the stock. And it isn't even that powerful. Can someone please help?! Here are some pics.
pic 1
pic 2
tubes up close
whole gun

Thanks.


Do you have the pump plugged? How many times do you pump it? Did you glue the PVC together with PVC cement?

My guess is that you aren't pumping it enough. Glue the PVC together if you haven't already and pump that sucker up! You shouldn't sacrifice much range at all if you did it right. It looks good!
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#3 nerfer34

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 04:48 PM

No I haven't PVC cemented it yet( I will though). Yes I have plugged the pump. Well the air isn't flowing into the original at2k air tank. It is only flowing towards the stock. The stock isn't hooked up yet because I want to make sure it works before I put it on. How many times should I pump it? Thanks
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#4 Carrtoon

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 04:57 PM

The air is in the whole gun. It's evenly distributed into each air hold, meaning more air will go where there is more air capacity. This means more air will travel to the stock, but when the psi is high, the air will rush out where it can. Do you understand?

Pumping it a certain amount of times is totally up to you. 7 worked for mine well without a stock. With the valve closed I would guess about 7 times. With it opened, 20 or 25? Just a guess. That PVC has a bigger capacity than cpvc and your stock is bigger.

There isn't much of a point in pumping the gun with the valve open and firing it. It just lets more air out rather than increase the psi, meaning you could only shoot arrows better. The point of this is to have two consecutive shots. For this to be effective, you should pump it to the max, close the valve, shoot, open the valve, and shoot again. The second shot won't have as much power, but it will be close to.
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#5 nerfer34

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 06:15 PM

OK thanks. How should I mount the stock onto the at2k? The stock is pretty heavy. Also how sould I get the tubing from the T connector to the stock centered? What should I use? How far should the tubing be from the valve? Like an inch?
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#6 Carrtoon

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 10:43 PM

Most of that is up to you. Hot glue is your friend along with a dremel. Check my at3k massive mod on the HQ if you still don't have any ideas.
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#7 nerfer34

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 02:22 PM

I pumped the at2k over 30 times and NO air is going to the at2k air tank.
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#8 Carrtoon

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 02:54 PM

I pumped the at2k over 30 times and NO air is going to the at2k air tank.


Then you definately have a leak somewhere. It could be at the T connector or the pump. There is no way you should be able to pump it 30 times...
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#9 nerfer34

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 07:21 PM

Well I yet to put on the stock. Will that make a difference? I am pumping it without the stock so the air thats supposed to go into the stock is just going in the air. This is basically a brand new at2k, it doesn't have a leak.

Edt- look at the 3rd pic in my first post. That is how I am pumping it. Will it make a differnece? Shouldn't air still travel to the at2k tank?

Edited by nerfer34, 12 May 2006 - 07:23 PM.

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#10 davidbowie

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 11:45 PM

Well I yet to put on the stock. Will that make a difference? I am pumping it without the stock so the air thats supposed to go into the stock is just going in the air. This is basically a brand new at2k, it doesn't have a leak.


This explains a lot. You left a big gaping open hole in the tank, and expected it to hold pressure.

Put on the stock, and it should work.
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#11 nerfer34

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 08:50 AM

OK thanks. How should I center the tubing in the stock? Wrap tons of tape around it and shove it in? Also how close should the tubing be from the valve?
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#12 nerfer34

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 04:44 PM

Sorry for the DP but does any one know How close I shouuld mount the tubing to the valve?
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#13 nerfer34

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 10:07 AM

Nevermind.

Edited by nerfer34, 27 June 2006 - 04:23 PM.

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#14 Flaming Hilt

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 10:34 AM

Is there a connector that just connects 2 tubes.


Just plug one end of your tee. Then you don't have to worry about breaking anything when you don't pry it off. Or... a coupler...

I have never tried it myself but to the best of my logic, it should work. My guess is that you just don't have everything sealed enough. Depending on how big your stock is, you are creating a LOT of potential air leaks. would run over everything with goop once or twice just to be sure. And post a pic of the "finished" product so we can see if there are any major problems.
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#15 ompa

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 11:01 AM

Uh, jiggawha?

I'll bet my Firefly that Carrtoon has a fully functional version. Just trust me when I say it IS possible and HAS been done by more people than just Carrtoon.

Post one more picture up of what you have, and I'm pretty sure I can pinpoint the problem. I'm serious.

Post a picture of the connection you have involving the tubing and the stock. More precisely, WHERE did you connect it. If you connected it to the back end of the stock, it would not have worked. If you connected it to the end of the ballvalve and DIDN'T close that end, it will not work. If you just didn't connect it at all, it will not work. If you made your T-connector using a bunch of check valves, there's a very high probability it will not work.

Basically, you have the ball valve that has two ends. One end will be left open. The other end will include a SMALL piece of pvc that you will glue/jam in there, and put an endcap on. That's right, and ENDCAP. Might not make sense now, but give it time. Then, drill a hole through the endcap/pvc. Goop your tube in there, and make sure not to block the opening. Now, you have a CLOSED chamber when the ball valve is closed. Pump your AT2k now. It should take around 2-3 more pumps than usual if you did this correctly. Now, how does this work? Well, when you pump the gun with the ball valve CLOSED, the air will flow to the small chamber created by the closed ball valve and the endcap, AS WELL AS to the AT2k chamber. Once you attach the stock AND OPEN the ball valve, the air is free to travel to the stock AS WELL AS the chamber. Once you close the ball valve after pressurizing the stock, you have separated in a sense, 2 separate chambers. You can empty oen chamber (the AT2k air tank), and then refill it with a lower pressure using the air in the stock by opening the ball valve.

Here are instructions for firing:
Attach the stock. Open the ball valve. Pump a shitload of times. Close ball valve. Fire. Open ball valve. Fire again.

How can I say this works? Because I followed the path of air on Carrtoon's mod.

~ompa
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#16 davidbowie

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 01:13 PM

Alright this thing is a failure. NO ONE SHOULD EVER TRY THIS. It just doesn't work and if you think about it, the air has to travel through the T connector and come back out of the T connector. I really got my hopes up for this and it just won't work. I have already spent like $10 to try to build this thing and now I just want my regular AT2k back. Is there a connector that just connects 2 tubes. Carrtroon, thanks for your help but I DOUBT you have ever completed this yourself. If you claim yours works, i would like to see a video of it working. Thanks


Given your track record in this topic alone, I'd be surprised if you DIDN'T mess up somewhere along the way. I mean, you left a big hole open in the chamber and expected it to hold pressure. I'm still not sure what you're trying to say by "The air has to travel through the T connector and come back out of the T connector." Do you have some sort of bizarro check-valve tee fitting?

YOUR air-stock failing doesn't mean the design doesn't work. Carrtoon DID post a video of the air-stocked 2k firing in the original topic. I've built a few similar things that worked beautifully, most notably the ancestral Yellow Jacket. 3DBBQ's Whalloper had a similar system, puggy55 has made some slightly rednecked shell-less creations with 2k's and titans using quick-refill chambers like this, and I believe ompa has made something similar as well. Not to mention there are countless nerfers out there who have copied Carrtoon's mod exactly with great success.

Also, $10 is NOT a lot of money. I regularly spend $10 on dinner. You could probably fix your blaster for free.

Could you tell us EXACTLY what's wrong with your blaster? I wouldn't be surprised if it's just a logic error like the original topic was.

If you REALLY don't want the air-stock, you can buy a tubing splicer from home depot and just stick the chamber back together.
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#17 nerfer34

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 04:40 PM

I know $10 is NOT alot of $. I want ths thing to work. I looked at cartoons thead agian and he dilled a hold on the side of the valve/tubing and used some sort of thing that bridged the air tubing to the valve. What is that thing? It may be able to help me. Thanks
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#18 ompa

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 08:24 PM

I'm not quite sure what it's called, I believe it's called a hose nipple

Posted Image

However, I think I'm getting the name wrong. But that's what it looks like, except Carrtoon's is plastic.

~ompa
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#19 nerfer34

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 09:00 PM

Thank you Ompa. I am assuming I can buy this at Home Depot, so what section do you think this would be under? PLumbing?
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#20 ompa

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 09:06 PM

I would assume so. With the 2-3 applications I SHOULD have used something like that, I've just drilled a hole through the pvc and epoxied/gooped the connection. However, the hose nipple (I really hope that's what it's called) is the correct way to do it.

~ompa
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#21 nerfer34

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 09:09 PM

OK Thanks, I'll probably go to home Depot tomorrow. And also do you think it is mandatory to glue the PVC stock together? THANKs
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#22 ompa

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 09:13 PM

OK Thanks, I'll probably go to home Depot tomorrow. And also do you think it is mandatory to glue the PVC stock together? THANKs


I would glue it together.

~ompa
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#23 Carbon

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 09:13 PM

I'm not quite sure what it's called, I believe it's called a hose nipple

Posted Image

However, I think I'm getting the name wrong. But that's what it looks like, except Carrtoon's is plastic.

~ompa


That name works. I've seen them called hosebarbs, mostly.
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#24 nerfer34

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 08:35 PM

OK I have done some more work to this project. I have
-made stock smaller
-PVC cemented stock together
-put on an endcap

I need to know where to drill the hole, Do I drll it after or before the valve?
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#25 Carrtoon

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Posted 26 June 2006 - 05:17 PM

Whoa, I must have missed this topic in the past few weeks. Sorry about that. You should drill the hole on the gun side of the ball valve. That way you can shut the valve and have your normal 2k back instead of pumping it a lot. This pic should help you some:

Posted Image

That endcap is there to act like a ball joint. I can rotate the stock around and bend it to the most comfortable position.

I have not personally welded the cpvc joints together yet. I get about 10 pumps with my at3k. Any more and the stock will blow apart. This can be fixed by gluing it together. Here are a few pics to help you out some more:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Hope this helps...
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