5 replies to this topic

[Carbon]

I've been planning on trying this for a little while, but didn't have the supplies to build a new SNAP to try it out. Well, I absolutely hosed the original SNAP-1 tonight....I was experimenting with something, and managed to drop it on the chargerod...while it was charged.

Hosed, I tell you. Pulling apart a SNAP while the spring is cocked is nerve wracking.


The firing pin bent, and jammed it in the primed position. I pretty much had to tear it apart to get it unjammed. So, it volunteered to try out the new trigger assembly. I had had a few thoughts of improving it, anyway...it was the only SNAP to use a wood clothespin.

The first improvement is a difference in nail. Up until now, the triggers have used a wide head but thin nail. The new version uses a 1" roofing nail.


I never used a wider nail before for fear of the wider hole compromising the strength of the clothespin. That's where the second improvement comes in, one of assembly. My triggers have holes in them anyway...why not make use of them?


The trigger is providing all the heavy lifting, while the pin is only providing the return leverage. It'll take stress off the trigger/clothespin joint, as well. You can see how much of an improvement this is in pin size:


Another benefit is in cocking; the surface of the pin itself can be ground at an angle to facilitate the catchface sliding over it. It should also reduce wear on the catchface.


Installed. Now that's a burly firing pin. I don't see this getting bent anytime soon.

[Ronster]

Oh snap!

That's great. Nice improvement.

[pat 1st Lt]

That is a rather forebidding firing pin. It looks more like some industrial prototype rather than a home-made Nerf gun.

Anyways, well done. It looks much more stable, and all around better. Except the hot-glue. I just don't like the whole hot-glueing things that are visible from the outside. But, that's just me.

I like the idea to grind the firing pin at an angle. With such a burly pin, it wouldn't degrade integrity by grinding the head down a fair amount.


All in all, a very sturdy looking trigger and very effective trigger, though it could be touched up a bit (I'm a stickler for straight lines and no visible glops of glue). Good work: I like the design.




Sincereley,
Pat

[ompa]

Remember that those globs of glue are conveniently covered by another piece of pvc. I have yet to see a "messy" work from Carbon. In fact, I'd say I have the most messy homemades around here.

~ompa

[Ryan201821]

I just put this on my SNAP-1 last night and I can tell the difference. The only problem I am having with the trigger now is the only clothespins I can find are wood. They are kind of weak and tend to fall apart from time to time. Anywhere know where to get plastic clothespins. Otherwise, I like the new trigger a lot. Thanks Carbon.

[Carbon]

I agree with you about the hot glue, Pat. As of late, I've been using superglue and Bondo to get cleaner lines. However, I like using hot glue in the trigger assembly because it means I can still remove it if necessary. And, like Ompa was saying, I cover the whole assembly with a PVC cowling for looks, and to keep the pin from popping all the way out.

I'd like to figure a screw-on way that still looks clean, and doesn't interfere with the plunger; on my last two paints, I'll have to break through superglue and bondo if I screw up the firing pin. Oh well.

Further firing shows another obvious improvement: a larger pin means the force of the plunger catchface is spread over a larger area...which means the trigger pull is easier.

EDIT: I found the plastic pins right by the wood ones at Menards (I actually have a harder time finding wood ones). If you keep having problems, PM me, and I can send you some. Although, my wood pin lasted a long time in the first SNAP. You actually don't need to drill a hole....you could physically cut off the end, and have the trigger overhang the end of teh pin, and have the same effect.

Edited by Carbon, 10 May 2006 - 08:50 PM.