All right, what's been done to Airtech guns to date? I'm interested in 2k, 3k, and 4k mods that either increase performance or increase utility. I'd also like to see any pictures of 3k or 4k internals since I don't own either at this point.
What still needs to be done? What are the glaring faults of this line? What is keeping you from using them?
Lets get some serious modding done!
Airtech Modification Round Table Discussion
Lets get the serious modders on this one
Started by cxwq, Jan 13 2003 03:14 PM
22 replies to this topic
#2
Atticus
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 03:59 PM
I'm sure a handful of people here have done the 2k, so I won't touch on that. I have both the 3k and the 4k. The 3k is awesome, I can get up to 80' flat per shot with 4 inch brass barrels. The only problem, is that the FBR I use is fits in the brass really tight, so it's pretty hard to push it to the back of the barrel, which you need to do or it will spin out. The 4k is in pieces in my basement, since it's complicated as hell inside.
3000 Internals
4000 Internals
(I have more pics if you need them)
3000 Finished
3000 Internals
4000 Internals
(I have more pics if you need them)
3000 Finished
#3
Spoon
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Meh.
Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:12 PM
OMG, look at the size of the 4k's pressure tank! That's ridiculous. It also looks insanely complicated, but I'm pleased that the air tank and barrel rotation mechanism is all fused into one piece, it looks pretty sturdy. The 3k looks interesting too. Does the 3k need manual barrel rotation, or does it do it automatically?
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#4
Atticus
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:31 PM
Automatic barrel rotation. If you do get one, don't try to rip the pumping handle back, because it might move the barrel just a bit too far, and it might misfire. That also could be because I messed up putting it back. And the external pic of the 3k is uploaded.
#5
VACC
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:49 PM
Wow, inspiring dude. A working autorotating barrel system on a new airtech primary would be a nice weapon indeed. Have you had any trouble ith the barrels rotating now that the heavier brass is in place?
VACC
VACC
#6
Atticus
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:52 PM
Actually, no. The barrels rotate exactly like they did right out of the box. I was suprised how light it actually is. Probably because I've been using copper for just about all my guns, which is heavy as hell, and I needed brass for this since copper wouldn't fit.
#7
WebbZter
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 05:11 PM
The AT 2000 gets very nice distance with four barrel brass or CPVC (my FBR is weird so CPVC works better). It is basically an SM 1500 with the addition of the Liquid Pressure Gauge.
I'm not sure how helpful this is but I found out something interesting about the barrel assemblies on the ATs. The barrel stubs have two layers, kind of like an onion. If you hacksaw the barrels at the line less than half way through the diameter and then pry it off using a flathead screw driver then the barrel will come off as usual, but it will rip out an inner wall of the barrel stub. This results in a barrel stub with a thinner wall and therefore higher inner diameter. That allows you to stick the brass tubing inside the stubs rather than just glue them onto the surface, which is what we have been doing.
I must warn you though, it is pretty tricky and sometimes the barrel stubs get torn in the process. On my AT2K two of the barrel stubs came off cleanly with the inner wall. The other two left a piece of the inner wall inside the stub and when I pulled that out with a pair of needle nosed plyers the entire wall of the barrel stub got ripped off leaving only 3/4 of the barrel stub's wall intact. It shouldn't affect the seal it makes with the brass though. I'll try it once I get my hands on some more brass tubing.
When modifying the AT 3000 and the AT 4000 I would recommend sawing the barrels off without removing the barrel assemblies. The internals are so complex that if you remove the barrel assemblies, chances are you will not be able to reassemble it.
I'm not sure how helpful this is but I found out something interesting about the barrel assemblies on the ATs. The barrel stubs have two layers, kind of like an onion. If you hacksaw the barrels at the line less than half way through the diameter and then pry it off using a flathead screw driver then the barrel will come off as usual, but it will rip out an inner wall of the barrel stub. This results in a barrel stub with a thinner wall and therefore higher inner diameter. That allows you to stick the brass tubing inside the stubs rather than just glue them onto the surface, which is what we have been doing.
I must warn you though, it is pretty tricky and sometimes the barrel stubs get torn in the process. On my AT2K two of the barrel stubs came off cleanly with the inner wall. The other two left a piece of the inner wall inside the stub and when I pulled that out with a pair of needle nosed plyers the entire wall of the barrel stub got ripped off leaving only 3/4 of the barrel stub's wall intact. It shouldn't affect the seal it makes with the brass though. I'll try it once I get my hands on some more brass tubing.
When modifying the AT 3000 and the AT 4000 I would recommend sawing the barrels off without removing the barrel assemblies. The internals are so complex that if you remove the barrel assemblies, chances are you will not be able to reassemble it.
#8
cxwq
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 05:14 PM
Excellent!
Thanks for the pictures and the results...
Now I need to get my hands on those suckers.
The airtank looks to be the same size on both guns, and approximately the same size as the 2k. Can you confirm?
I assume you did an over-pressure release valve plug - have you had any problems with the 'goo tube' holding up under the added pressure? Did you have any problems with the pump after blocking the valve? Did you just do the drop of hotglue on the tip of the plunger?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the pictures and the results...
Now I need to get my hands on those suckers.
The airtank looks to be the same size on both guns, and approximately the same size as the 2k. Can you confirm?
I assume you did an over-pressure release valve plug - have you had any problems with the 'goo tube' holding up under the added pressure? Did you have any problems with the pump after blocking the valve? Did you just do the drop of hotglue on the tip of the plunger?
Thanks again!
#9
WebbZter
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 05:19 PM
Contrary to popular belief, the Liquid Gauge is pretty sturdy. I chopped it off of my AT 2000 and the liquid remained inside the tube. I've never had a problem with one of the gauges bursting under the pressure either so you should have very little to worry about.
The AT 2000's air tank is ever so slightly smaller than that of the SM 1500. It is only noticable if you compare them really closely though. And yes to plug the pump I simply put a drop of hot glue into the hole. After plugging the valve it helps to remove the trigger spring and replace it with a Bic Pen tube.
BTW: This is my write-up of the AT 2000 mod. After doing it the barrels aren't especially sturdy though. I think this can be fixed by placing the barrels into the stubs using the method in my previous post.
http://webbzterx.tri...verse/id38.html
The AT 2000's air tank is ever so slightly smaller than that of the SM 1500. It is only noticable if you compare them really closely though. And yes to plug the pump I simply put a drop of hot glue into the hole. After plugging the valve it helps to remove the trigger spring and replace it with a Bic Pen tube.
BTW: This is my write-up of the AT 2000 mod. After doing it the barrels aren't especially sturdy though. I think this can be fixed by placing the barrels into the stubs using the method in my previous post.
http://webbzterx.tri...verse/id38.html
#10
Sacapuntas Cabesa
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 06:09 PM
Hm, the AT3000 and AT4000 are almost identical to the sm3000 on the inside.
If the world is so unfair, why isn't it ever unfair in my favor?
Dinobot smash!!!
Dinobot smash!!!
#11
cxwq
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 06:20 PM
Yeah, almost...
Hopefully they got it right this time.
Hopefully they got it right this time.
#12
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 07:40 PM
I've got a few AT4ks, and I've figured out some things. Yes, the internals are really complicated, but to remove the barrel assembly, you have to unscrew part of the auto rotating system on the inside. I couldn't take pics of the insides, because I don't have a digital camera, so I had to try to memorize the places of where the parts go.
For the barrels on my first AT4k, I - awed off the old barrels, and used Plumber's Goop to attach 6 inch barrels. They were made of 1/2" electrical conduit, which fits mega Steffans. Unfortunately, they are very heavy, and the barrels don't rotate correctly. They rotate partially, and then you can lock the barrels in place manually. I also had trouble aligning all 12 of the barrels. If I would have realized that I could have taken out more of the barrels, and fit a Crayola inside the barrel assembly and the barrels, they would have been steadier, which would have helped me allign them. I think that CPVC or brass would be a much better choice for barrels than the electrical conduit, because they're much lighter. I also plugged the air release valve.
On my second, I removed the barrels, without taking out the barrel assembly. I stuck Crayolas in the assembly, and now it shoots micros about 60 ft. I didn't add any other barrels. It's okay, but the 12 barrels help make up for the range problems. I also tried to plug the air release valve on the pump, but for some reason, it still releases air. I didn't have this problem on the first one.
One note: A pump relocation would be advisable. It gets hard to pump after more than 5 pumps, because the pump handle is very small.
For the barrels on my first AT4k, I - awed off the old barrels, and used Plumber's Goop to attach 6 inch barrels. They were made of 1/2" electrical conduit, which fits mega Steffans. Unfortunately, they are very heavy, and the barrels don't rotate correctly. They rotate partially, and then you can lock the barrels in place manually. I also had trouble aligning all 12 of the barrels. If I would have realized that I could have taken out more of the barrels, and fit a Crayola inside the barrel assembly and the barrels, they would have been steadier, which would have helped me allign them. I think that CPVC or brass would be a much better choice for barrels than the electrical conduit, because they're much lighter. I also plugged the air release valve.
On my second, I removed the barrels, without taking out the barrel assembly. I stuck Crayolas in the assembly, and now it shoots micros about 60 ft. I didn't add any other barrels. It's okay, but the 12 barrels help make up for the range problems. I also tried to plug the air release valve on the pump, but for some reason, it still releases air. I didn't have this problem on the first one.
One note: A pump relocation would be advisable. It gets hard to pump after more than 5 pumps, because the pump handle is very small.
#13
GunnedDown
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 09:40 PM
Does anyone know how to do the tank extension with the liquid power gauge. If you were to properly execute this, you would have one huge airtank. Do I just saw off the plastic gauge and drain the goo out? I would think I could then shove on a coupler or a PVC pipe or something, and then cap it off. Would this give me more power?
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#14
WebbZter
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 09:54 PM
I would think so. There isn't a valve between the hose and the tank so technically, anything past the pump is part of the air tank.
#15
cxwq
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Posted 13 January 2003 - 11:10 PM
The only drawback to this approach is that the tube connecting the two tanks is so small. In any event, it can't hurt and will definitely help at least a little.
I'm thinking about dropping an old SM1500 or SM5k air tank into an AT gun. It would be relatively simple in the AT2k but the others would prove more difficult due to the barrel rotation mechanism being integrated into the tank.
I'm thinking about dropping an old SM1500 or SM5k air tank into an AT gun. It would be relatively simple in the AT2k but the others would prove more difficult due to the barrel rotation mechanism being integrated into the tank.
#16
Pineapple
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Posted 14 January 2003 - 01:41 AM
AAAK! Guess you beat me to it, sort of.
I've done five of the AT 3000 single barrel PVC mods (the stores here are fresh out of SM 1500s, and the 3000 has a nice feel, size wise, much like the 1500), and with the newest one I picked up, I'm looking to attach a SM 1500 four-barrel assembly to the 3000's airtank.
The reason for the "two less barrels" swap is that I like the manual turning/indexing of the barrels as opposed to having autorotating barrels that tend to either skip or underrotate. I learned how to get by the negative symptoms on my SM 3000's, but I'd like to have a blaster that fits my style of nerfing. Plus I'm having so much fun with 1/2" Sched 40 PVC that I'm friends with everyone in the plumbing department at Home Depot.
The single barrel 3000s have almost 1500-like performance, shooting consistent 80-90 foot shots with four pumps and mega stefans. The slide-type pump is not as fragile as the ones on the SM 3000s (everybody who plugged the pump shaft probably broke one) and the gun simply feels good in the hands. Since all but one of our 1500s now leak from the tank (almost in the same area too!), the 3000 has become the shooter of choice for the guys around the shop.
AT 4000? Those things sold out pretty quickly after they brought them out (even at 25 bucks apiece). I'm waiting for more....
I've done five of the AT 3000 single barrel PVC mods (the stores here are fresh out of SM 1500s, and the 3000 has a nice feel, size wise, much like the 1500), and with the newest one I picked up, I'm looking to attach a SM 1500 four-barrel assembly to the 3000's airtank.
The reason for the "two less barrels" swap is that I like the manual turning/indexing of the barrels as opposed to having autorotating barrels that tend to either skip or underrotate. I learned how to get by the negative symptoms on my SM 3000's, but I'd like to have a blaster that fits my style of nerfing. Plus I'm having so much fun with 1/2" Sched 40 PVC that I'm friends with everyone in the plumbing department at Home Depot.
The single barrel 3000s have almost 1500-like performance, shooting consistent 80-90 foot shots with four pumps and mega stefans. The slide-type pump is not as fragile as the ones on the SM 3000s (everybody who plugged the pump shaft probably broke one) and the gun simply feels good in the hands. Since all but one of our 1500s now leak from the tank (almost in the same area too!), the 3000 has become the shooter of choice for the guys around the shop.
AT 4000? Those things sold out pretty quickly after they brought them out (even at 25 bucks apiece). I'm waiting for more....
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#17
Guest_wax4213_*
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Posted 14 January 2003 - 12:45 PM
On my AT2k, I unscrewed the gauge, drained the liquid, and cut a hole in the middle of the round, rubber piece that makes a seal in the gauge. I put it back together, and the gauge part seems to hold pressure fine, but you may want to replace it with PVC, like you said. I haven't done this to my AT4k, because like Cx said, the tube connecting the guage to the airtank is pretty thin, and weak looking.Does anyone know how to do the tank extension with the liquid power gauge. If you were to properly execute this, you would have one huge airtank. Do I just saw off the plastic gauge and drain the goo out? I would think I could then shove on a coupler or a PVC pipe or something, and then cap it off. Would this give me more power?
#18
WebbZter
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Posted 14 January 2003 - 03:32 PM
Are the air tanks of the AT3000 and the AT4000 identical?
#19
Spoon
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Meh.
Posted 14 January 2003 - 06:31 PM
Well I just ordered me a AT3k and AT4k, I'll let you know what I think when the guns arrive, I have to say I'm rather excited about brassing the 3K, if what you say about it not interfering with the barrel rotation is true.
Two roads converged in the woods, and I took the one less traveled......and now I don't know where the hell I am.
#20
Atticus
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Posted 14 January 2003 - 06:47 PM
Yeah, as far as I know, the 3k and 4k airtanks seem to be the same size. Now I'm not positive, I didn't measure volume or anything like that, but they look the same. And Spoon, you'll be pleased with your 3k.
#21
cxwq
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Posted 14 January 2003 - 07:31 PM
Shit, I need to get those shopping links up... 
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#22
Nerf Master
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Posted 14 January 2003 - 11:08 PM
The pumps on the 3000 and 4000 are a bit awkward to pump once you plug the air release valve on the pump. So I relocated the pump location on the 3000 as Sniper5000 first tried. You mostly have to just remove that blue handle you original pumped it with, and drill a proper sized hole in the casing in front of the pump and glued a galvanized square pipe into the pump. Then add some sort of padded on the end and such, and the pump is now located in a more comfortable area. The pump strokes are short(At least on the 3000), but it only takes 5 or 6 pumps to safely pressurize it. As for the liquid gauge, I cut it off my 2000, and it didn't affect range. So maybe it's not directly related to the main air tank.
#23
Nsnerfing
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Posted 22 November 2011 - 01:28 AM
Sorry a bit of miss up. Won't happen again
Edited by Nsnerfing, 22 November 2011 - 02:04 AM.
I want
ANYTHING vintage, I am a collecter. In North Ca? PM me.
ANYTHING vintage, I am a collecter. In North Ca? PM me.
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