Airtech Modification Round Table Discussion
Posted 13 January 2003 - 03:14 PM
What still needs to be done? What are the glaring faults of this line? What is keeping you from using them?
Lets get some serious modding done!
Posted 13 January 2003 - 03:59 PM
(I have more pics if you need them)
Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:12 PM
Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:31 PM
Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:49 PM
Posted 13 January 2003 - 04:52 PM
Posted 13 January 2003 - 05:11 PM
I'm not sure how helpful this is but I found out something interesting about the barrel assemblies on the ATs. The barrel stubs have two layers, kind of like an onion. If you hacksaw the barrels at the line less than half way through the diameter and then pry it off using a flathead screw driver then the barrel will come off as usual, but it will rip out an inner wall of the barrel stub. This results in a barrel stub with a thinner wall and therefore higher inner diameter. That allows you to stick the brass tubing inside the stubs rather than just glue them onto the surface, which is what we have been doing.
I must warn you though, it is pretty tricky and sometimes the barrel stubs get torn in the process. On my AT2K two of the barrel stubs came off cleanly with the inner wall. The other two left a piece of the inner wall inside the stub and when I pulled that out with a pair of needle nosed plyers the entire wall of the barrel stub got ripped off leaving only 3/4 of the barrel stub's wall intact. It shouldn't affect the seal it makes with the brass though. I'll try it once I get my hands on some more brass tubing.
When modifying the AT 3000 and the AT 4000 I would recommend sawing the barrels off without removing the barrel assemblies. The internals are so complex that if you remove the barrel assemblies, chances are you will not be able to reassemble it.
Posted 13 January 2003 - 05:14 PM
Thanks for the pictures and the results...
Now I need to get my hands on those suckers.
The airtank looks to be the same size on both guns, and approximately the same size as the 2k. Can you confirm?
I assume you did an over-pressure release valve plug - have you had any problems with the 'goo tube' holding up under the added pressure? Did you have any problems with the pump after blocking the valve? Did you just do the drop of hotglue on the tip of the plunger?
Posted 13 January 2003 - 05:19 PM
The AT 2000's air tank is ever so slightly smaller than that of the SM 1500. It is only noticable if you compare them really closely though. And yes to plug the pump I simply put a drop of hot glue into the hole. After plugging the valve it helps to remove the trigger spring and replace it with a Bic Pen tube.
BTW: This is my write-up of the AT 2000 mod. After doing it the barrels aren't especially sturdy though. I think this can be fixed by placing the barrels into the stubs using the method in my previous post.
Posted 13 January 2003 - 06:09 PM
Posted 13 January 2003 - 06:20 PM
Hopefully they got it right this time.
Posted 13 January 2003 - 07:40 PM
For the barrels on my first AT4k, I - awed off the old barrels, and used Plumber's Goop to attach 6 inch barrels. They were made of 1/2" electrical conduit, which fits mega Steffans. Unfortunately, they are very heavy, and the barrels don't rotate correctly. They rotate partially, and then you can lock the barrels in place manually. I also had trouble aligning all 12 of the barrels. If I would have realized that I could have taken out more of the barrels, and fit a Crayola inside the barrel assembly and the barrels, they would have been steadier, which would have helped me allign them. I think that CPVC or brass would be a much better choice for barrels than the electrical conduit, because they're much lighter. I also plugged the air release valve.
On my second, I removed the barrels, without taking out the barrel assembly. I stuck Crayolas in the assembly, and now it shoots micros about 60 ft. I didn't add any other barrels. It's okay, but the 12 barrels help make up for the range problems. I also tried to plug the air release valve on the pump, but for some reason, it still releases air. I didn't have this problem on the first one.
One note: A pump relocation would be advisable. It gets hard to pump after more than 5 pumps, because the pump handle is very small.
Posted 13 January 2003 - 09:40 PM
but we do sh*t and F---"
~Webbster, Foam Improvement.
"I got four points... I sackled you"
Posted 13 January 2003 - 09:54 PM
Posted 13 January 2003 - 11:10 PM
I'm thinking about dropping an old SM1500 or SM5k air tank into an AT gun. It would be relatively simple in the AT2k but the others would prove more difficult due to the barrel rotation mechanism being integrated into the tank.
Posted 14 January 2003 - 01:41 AM
I've done five of the AT 3000 single barrel PVC mods (the stores here are fresh out of SM 1500s, and the 3000 has a nice feel, size wise, much like the 1500), and with the newest one I picked up, I'm looking to attach a SM 1500 four-barrel assembly to the 3000's airtank.
The reason for the "two less barrels" swap is that I like the manual turning/indexing of the barrels as opposed to having autorotating barrels that tend to either skip or underrotate. I learned how to get by the negative symptoms on my SM 3000's, but I'd like to have a blaster that fits my style of nerfing. Plus I'm having so much fun with 1/2" Sched 40 PVC that I'm friends with everyone in the plumbing department at Home Depot.
The single barrel 3000s have almost 1500-like performance, shooting consistent 80-90 foot shots with four pumps and mega stefans. The slide-type pump is not as fragile as the ones on the SM 3000s (everybody who plugged the pump shaft probably broke one) and the gun simply feels good in the hands. Since all but one of our 1500s now leak from the tank (almost in the same area too!), the 3000 has become the shooter of choice for the guys around the shop.
AT 4000? Those things sold out pretty quickly after they brought them out (even at 25 bucks apiece). I'm waiting for more....
<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
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Posted 14 January 2003 - 12:45 PM
On my AT2k, I unscrewed the gauge, drained the liquid, and cut a hole in the middle of the round, rubber piece that makes a seal in the gauge. I put it back together, and the gauge part seems to hold pressure fine, but you may want to replace it with PVC, like you said. I haven't done this to my AT4k, because like Cx said, the tube connecting the guage to the airtank is pretty thin, and weak looking.
Does anyone know how to do the tank extension with the liquid power gauge. If you were to properly execute this, you would have one huge airtank. Do I just saw off the plastic gauge and drain the goo out? I would think I could then shove on a coupler or a PVC pipe or something, and then cap it off. Would this give me more power?
Posted 14 January 2003 - 03:32 PM
Posted 14 January 2003 - 06:31 PM
Posted 14 January 2003 - 07:31 PM
Our bandwidth usage is going up logarithmically.
Posted 14 January 2003 - 11:08 PM
Posted 22 November 2011 - 01:28 AM
Edited by Nsnerfing, 22 November 2011 - 02:04 AM.
ANYTHING vintage, I am a collecter. In North Ca? PM me.
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