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Help!exploding Air Tanks!

Plz help me out

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#1 Guest_the_foam_flinging_ehrenschutz_*

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Posted 07 July 2003 - 06:56 PM

Hey... I recently (yesterday) built the "Zero Homemade" cutlass (that's right Zero, poke me with a hot metal stick). The air tank is 1" PVC that is 2' long. It's construction is by the guide. Though, when I pump it up, it will sometimes have the endcap with the valve pop off like a cork :huh: . Is there anything that I can do to make this better? It is well welded with
PVC solvent glue so i need another tip. Also, it isn't as powerful as I should expected it to be, any tips there also? :huh:
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#2 Vassili

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Posted 07 July 2003 - 10:27 PM

It's called PVC Cement, buddy. All you do is glue everything together.
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#3 Guest_the_foam_flinging_ehrenschutz_*

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 09:33 PM

Yeah I know...PVC solvent-glue is just another name for PVC cement. Anyways, I reinforced each of the endcaps with 3 1/8" thinck and now it holds up to 50 PSI. Thats pretty damn good if you ask me.
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#4 Vassili

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 09:59 PM

We pump our homemades until you just simply can't pump anymore because you are not heavy enough to pump a bike pump. We get ours over 160.
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#5 IronRhino

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 10:36 PM

Manly PVC cement holds at 180 PSI. So get some of that.
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#6 Zero Talent

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Posted 09 July 2003 - 12:31 AM

Yeah, PVC glue should chemically weld that 1/2" PVC endcap to that 3/4" threaded adapter... Even without, you need to force the cap in there, and I can't see less than 50 PSI forcing it out. Did you use primer? Of course, I may have been a bit too liberal with my suggestion to "sand the outide of the 1/2" PVC endcap." If it fits in there easily right after sanding, when the outside is still rough, it may in fact be too small for the PVC. I usually take the brute way to those kinds of bonds, gluing the outside of the endcap and inside of the PVC after priming, using a bit of masking tape to hold the endcap against the PVC, turning it empty side up, and hammering it with a large rubber mallet. Caveman technique, sure, but sometimes people are lazy. Besides, it seals well... :(

I have another reason to poke you with the hot metal stick; You need to play around with these designs. In fact, now that I think of that design, perhaps I should have suggested larger diameter vinyl piping... Given the air flow is going to be vastly hindered by the tiny inner diameter of 1/4". Perhaps 5/8" or 3/8". Should be easy to adapt your homemade, Ehrenschutz.
Sorry Cxwq, that was a really stupid error on my part... I'm starting to see it in the homemade valves, too, now that I've done more firing tests with the semi-auto valves. When I can nab some 7/16" brass tubing, I'll have a better valve up (Improved airflow, adaptable to copper construction for higher pressures). I should have the time, but without any Nerf wars in 1.5 years, I'm getting lazy towards air guns... You've seen my site, you know my motive-less motivation.
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#7 Cadmond

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Posted 11 July 2003 - 12:49 PM

Hah! I told you!
::pokes zero with a hot metal stick::

yeah.. that was pointless : /

Some word on the pvc shctuff..

For one, pvc cement welds it together to hold at 600+ (I'm sure theres a real number, but maybe the pipe goes first) So, start with a fresh cap and pvc end, and try it again, but remember

prime both
swab both with glue
and then stick em together while twisting 1/4 turn.. clockwise (or counter clockwise if you want to be a rebel)

Tubing also kinks with bends, if that happens to you.. basically ever, you can find a extension spring (I'm sure that's not what they are called, but the ones you pull on) and slide it over the tubing. Nerf seems to do that a bit, as do people who use tubing in odd bends. It should help.. I think.... can't quite remember

And as for power.... pretty sure zero is right. Unless, of course, your homemade has been probed by aliens recently.
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