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#1 Raj Man

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 06:55 PM

First off, how do you remove the air restrictor without using a drill? Secondly, where is the overpressure release valve, and how do I plug it? Lastly, where is the air tank, I don't see much space between the pump and the trigger button? Help and/or pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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#2 DTReaper

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 07:24 PM

Well to get the air restrictor out use a dremal or drill or figure out your own way. The overpressure release valve is inside of the part you push and pull on and you need to cut the outside edge off until yo can pull out the pump ( warning dont go through the pump or you will need to fix the pump shaft). And as far as I know it the air tank is directly below the trigger. Not to menton you didnt look nearly hard enough

http://www.freewebs....ch/STS Mod.html
http://www.nerfhq.co...topic.php?t=486

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#3 No-iD

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 07:30 PM

If you have a sodering iron you could heat the air restrictor. After heating up the restrictor just pull off the long rod that holds the dart in place(not quite sure what it is called). If you could fit a soldering iron down in there it could possibly work, but I dont know, I've not modded my SSPB so I'm not quite sure.

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#4 Beaver Vortex

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 08:20 PM

I've gone through two sspb to date (first one sprung a leak). The first one I just used a pair of pliers, grabbed the pole, and twisted the air restrictor out. But on the second one only the pole came out when I did that, leaving the x restrictor at the bottom. That I just removed with a x-acto knife. It shouldn't give you too much trouble. The rest I just left alone, since I figured they break plenty easy without me helping.
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#5 Raj Man

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 10:04 PM

Thanks! I'll use one of those ways to remove the restrictor, however, I still have one question. If I directly connected an at2k or 3k tank to the existing tank (a tank expansion), would I still need to seal the release valve? Technically, the level the pressure would need to get to in order to force the release valve to kick in would be much higher after a tank expansion than before it, so is it still necessary to plug the valve? Also, if I were to do a tank expansion, WHERE would I attach the external tank?

Edited by Raj Man, 23 February 2006 - 10:04 PM.

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"Asshats are people who get stupider every post/minute/hour/day. See, they have an ass for a hat, so every 24 hrs. their brain is replaced with more shit. That's at least how I took the definition of "asshat" to be."

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#6 sam

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 11:16 PM

I wouldn’t use an Airtech tank unless the Airtech it came from is totaled. Yes plugging the over release valve is something you definitely should do. Also take a look at this link: http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=5884 it has tons of information.

Edited by sam, 23 February 2006 - 11:16 PM.

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#7 opiumpanda

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 11:17 PM

Thanks! I'll use one of those ways to remove the restrictor, however, I still have one question. If I directly connected an at2k or 3k tank to the existing tank (a tank expansion), would I still need to seal the release valve? Technically, the level the pressure would need to get to in order to force the release valve to kick in would be much higher after a tank expansion than before it, so is it still necessary to plug the valve? Also, if I were to do a tank expansion, WHERE would I attach the external tank?

Are you talking about attaching a huge air tank to a tiny SPPB? That seems a little excessive don't you think? I suggest you go with the vinyl tubing tank expansion. 60-70' is more than enough for something that small

Edited by opiumpanda, 23 February 2006 - 11:17 PM.

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#8 KirbySaysHi

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 08:16 AM

Just to add my two cents...

In my experience with the Derringers of Nerf, I've found them to be finicky bastards when it comes to sealing those pistons. Even the slightest bit of plastic dust/shaving/fleck will cause the piston to fail to seal; if this happens, it works best for me to take a paper clip, bend it a bit, and scrape the piston clear of obstruction.

The point of all this, is that when replacing the barrel, be sure to have the barrel pointing down to minimize gunk getting in the piston. Also, the pressure release can be plugged, but it's really not necessary: these things are powerful enough as it is. Also, as far as an air tank expansion goes: yeah, it works, but only to an extent. The valve is only so large, so it would be very easy to create an "air bottleneck" with a larger tank. Honestly, just put a CPVC barrel on there and call it a day.

I tried utilizing simply the valve by adding a larger pump and airtank, but the valve just isn't made to handle much higher pressures (my gun didn't blow, but it was nearly impossible to get it to seal, and when it did, the volumes just weren't there for effective nerfing).

I think the SSPB could be my favorite gun... Makes me feel like a male version of Derringer Meryl, minus the cloak.

Good luck pal, and rock that shitakke at all times.

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EDIT: Oh yeah, and Lefty's mod works wonders. The air tank is the cylindrical area between the barrel (piston) and the pump. Basically, the top "L" of the gun is the airtank (not counting the barrel). So, if you were to saw off the pump and the barrel, you'd have an airtank. Which would be worthless. Almost.

Edited by KirbySaysHi, 24 February 2006 - 08:21 AM.

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#9 Jikman

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 02:18 PM

I just have one question regarding the air tank.

So the air tank is NOT here? (The vertical part between trigger and pump)

Posted Image

But instead, the air tank is the section where the vinyl is connected to?

Edited by Jikman, 02 March 2006 - 09:50 PM.

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