New Removable Air Tank For Pvc Hm's
Posted 02 July 2003 - 03:21 PM
Thinking about a new pvc homemade I wanted to make, I decided to incorpirate a very simple, very easy to make removable and refiallable airtank for a PVC homemade.
basically, it is 3 inches of PVC, glued to a ball valve. The ball valve is also glued to 12 inches of PVC on the other side. then, drill a hole in an endcap fitting for the type of pvc your using (i use 1/2 inch sched. 40 like most people) big enough for a tire stem valve to fit through but small enough so it doesnt fall out. Make sure that the tire stem valve is glued very tightly to the endcap so no air could pass through it. Now glue that endcap to the first part of the tank very tightly. Make sure this is very airtight. Well, your done. All you have to do to refill it is pump it up with a bike pump with the tire stem valve. You need to make a new PVC homemade though...one that can work with this tank. The 3 inches of PVC in the front of the tank is what connects to the gun letting air pass through. the gun will have a special place to house this air tank. Just take any PVC gun, attach a T to it so you can attack a bit of PVC, connected to yet another ball valve. Just atack the 3 inches in front to that ball valve, and open both valves and shoot. You can make many of these airtanks for quick reloads... here is what the tank looks like, and if you want a detailed description, go to my thread called: air powered, in this forum. this is what it looks like:
the = are the pvc, for each inch of pvc, we have 1 =.
the |--| is the abll valve, the more pvc wich is the actual airtank holding the air.
the ] is the endcap witha hole drilled into it connected to a tire stem valve poking out whcih is the -. you hook the nike pump up to the -, and hook the gun's ball valve connector to the ===.
Posted 02 July 2003 - 04:54 PM
Posted 02 July 2003 - 05:52 PM
| | | |
| | \ \
| | \ \
the tank is 4 feet long(just to remind u)
= : PVC
|--| : Ball valve
]- : endcap with tire stem valve
__|__ : a T
____ : the other T facing down
the ==== on top that looks like this ===|--|========]-
is the tank connected to the T on a 90 degree angle with the tire stem valve at the back to refill before and after the war.
the pic got kinda messed up, but the tank was connected to the __|__ and the handles to the ____'s
the bottum parts are handles.
The gun will use about 40 feet of PVC(HOW??!! your wondering?: 7 airtanks each 4 feet, otherwise the gun takes about 15 feet.
Overall I have REALLY high hopes for this gun from the chanegs I have made in the last hour... so, what do you think?
and yes it will work, it just depends on how you make it, for a more detailed description on the function of this gun read the other thread
Awsome isnt it?
Posted 03 July 2003 - 03:02 PM
gun a is the bad, old one, gun b is the new, good one.
these measurements are done in Inches and volmes done in inches cubed.
As you can easily notice, Gun B has a smaller tank volume and gun volume...but the ratio's are far better than gun A. Gun b's tanks were larger than the Gun's tanks. It is the opposite for gun A, reducing the pressure alot.
Gun B's tank length is only 16 inches, compared to the 4 feet, it is a great achievment to reach higher pressures with such a smaller, more accessible tank.
Gun B's volume is also smaller, abling it to get higher pressure rates, with smaller tanks, and for faster refills.
Gun B is 1 foot and 1 inch smaller than gun A, making it still bulky, but alot smaller.
The new gun's design has changed alot. It still uses the emergency pump in the back when you run out of tanks, but the appearance has been modifyed.
It has a 12 inch barrel connected to a ball valve. On the other end of the valveis a T coupling with a 6 inch handle connected on the bottum part(with an endcap at the end), and 5inches of PVC on the straight part.
Connected to that 5 inches of PVC, is an elbow, facing upwards, connected to 3 more inches of PVC connected to a T coupling. On the front side of the T coupling is 3 inches of PVC, then a ball valve(to connect the airtanks to). On the other side is 3 inches of PVC, conected to an endcap with a hole in it for a tire stem valve. Underneath the elbow connected to the 5 inches of PVC, is a strap of velcrow similair to the rototrack's to slide your arm in, to keep the gun steady while firing and twisting the firing ball valve.
The entire gun must be airtight for it to work properly.
I made a mistake with gun A on my last post, so disregard the volumes and high hopes..hehe gun B has been checked many times, and it will work. There is enough pressure to fire a homemade dart 100 feet flat(with accuracy), with 200 feet angled.
In my last post i said give me a month or 2... well Ive made this gun alot smaller and Im determined to finish it in 1 week, starting July 4.
!!!!!!!!!!!: The only way this gun will not work(at all) is if you do not push the airtank in very tight otherwise it will be leaking and too weak to even fire:!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
aside from that, it will work great. It is perfectly safe to make. I plan on making 10 seperate airtanks for the gun.
the airtanks are the same design as gun A's except smaller:
3 inches of PVC connected to a ball valve, connected to 16 inches of PVC, connected to the endcap with a hole drilled into it for a tire stem valve( YOU MUST MAKE THE AIRTANK AIRTIGHT!)
to pressurize the tanks attach a bike pump to the tire stem valve and pump.
to attach the tanks to the gun insert the 3 Inches of PVC (on the airtank) VERY tightly into the top ball valve.
to pressurize the gun without and airtank, close all of the gun valves, attach a pump to the tirestem valve, and pump.
the gun looks like this.
|| ( )
= : Horizontal PVC
T : T coupling
_| : elbow facing upwards
( ) :velcrow( big enough and tight enough to fit arm)
|--| : ball valve
]- :endcap with tire stem valve head poking out(for pump)
|| :PVC moving vertically
The ||'s are all connected to the T's(so visualize that moving to where a T is in your mind)
the ( ) is really connected underneath the _| on the _(so visualize that over there)
The thing on top |--|===T===]- is connected to the || on the T on the _| and on on the ball valve on it, thats where the 3 inches of PVC on the airtank fit into.
to learn how to use and fire the gun look on the above post.
I plan to have this gun finished in about a week and a half
so, how do you like it?
Posted 30 October 2003 - 08:43 PM
But anyway, I didnt bother making a new topic for the same subject.
Ive finnally gotten around to building this gun. The design of the gun is completely changed, and is a whole lot cooler. Im using a copper ball valve instead of a pvc one for firing the gun, and I have a new/simialir airtank design that holds more air with less space. The plans and desings are all written up, now i need some work space, and a trip to home depot. The estimated cost of this gun is > $74.20 dollars, and Im nowhere near excited on spending that much on 1 air gun and 10 tanks. I expect to get 2-3 shos from each tank, but to crank up the rof, Ive incorpirated a fairly complex brass/copper 14 inch/9 inch breach loading barrel.
I call it: Copper Brass Breach loading RAT air rifle, or CBBLRATR, which no one is going to call it. RAT stands for remmovable airtank. I believe that someone else recently made a homemade with a removable airtank...Blah you beatme two it, Ive had these designs for months...
Anyway, when i start maing it, maybe in a week or so, and then finish, maybe in 3 weeks or so, ll post some pics.
Posted 30 October 2003 - 10:41 PM
- Taggart (Blazing Saddles)
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