#1
Posted 11 February 2006 - 12:10 PM
-GeneralPrimeevil
#3
Posted 11 February 2006 - 12:37 PM
Yeah, you can find replacement door closers at pretty much any hardware store. I've glanced at them, but never thought hard about using one....let us know what you find out, it sounds interesting!Sounds neat!...
I wonder if you can buy spare storm door pistons at Home Depot or Lowes...
#4
Posted 11 February 2006 - 12:42 PM
I wonder if you can buy spare storm door pistons at Home Depot or Lowes...
Yeah, thanks! My dad said that most home improvement stores carry them, and you can get them in all sizes and kinds. However, you have to get one that is pneumatic, not oil or hydraulic. That's the only way to actually get AIR to come out of the piston.
Edited by Raj Man, 11 February 2006 - 12:42 PM.
-GeneralPrimeevil
#6
Posted 11 February 2006 - 12:51 PM
The key word when Nerfsmithing would be 'cost-effective'. Meaning if the door closer costs more than say, a Crossbow or a BBB, would it really make sense for folks to go out and buy one for the purpose of a Nerf blaster? Not to mention the weight of one of those piston/rod assemblies.
I never considered that, despite the fact that I removed 18 of those from some rooms at our facility last year. I'm going to check the storeroom where I left them (at least the bin I threw them into.)
Aah. Mine are hydraulic closers. Oh well.
Good luck, and let's see the progress as you take it on!
-Piney-
<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
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#7
Posted 11 February 2006 - 01:15 PM
Some models even have a spring inside them, which makes them more powerful!
-GeneralPrimeevil
#8
Posted 11 February 2006 - 03:16 PM
I have been researching the utilization of closers, and I have found out many things. First of all, they have been used for a wide variety of air pressure projects already, and are especially handy for halloween tricks, spooks, and booby traps. More importantly, i found out that what I am planning on doing WILL work, though it has not been done. Once the main pressure screw is removed, you must drill out a big hole through the threaded hole in which the screw was once held. This is the only way to get even a substantial amount of air flow.
Also, you must use a hose adapter in order to harness this airflow, or even be able to put a barrel on the closer. Once you have a hose adapter, you can even attach vinyl tubing to the closer and transfer air flow from the closer to a separate homemade barrel. You would probably lose air pressure by doing this, but I suppose that some people would prefer their nerf guns that way.
I'm starting my building as soon as I get more of the large sized rubber bands that I have been using (for testing) as well as a new, working door closer from home depot.
Note: The door closers are very heavy, considering that they are metal, so if anyone has any ideas of a similar device that weighs less or is less expensive feel free to post here about it!
-GeneralPrimeevil
#9
Posted 11 February 2006 - 06:01 PM
#10
Posted 11 February 2006 - 06:34 PM
Yeah, I read your suggestion already, davidbowie, thanks! I was just wondering if anyone ELSE had any OTHER suggestions. As soon as I get that bike pump, a new door closer, and some new big rubber bands, I'll start building and range testing. It all depends on which has better ranges, the door closer or bike pump, whether the range is actually worth it, and when I get the materials. I will post again, with pictures, once testing is complete!How much do they cost?
I would go with a bike pump over one of those, but they might be cheaper.
-GeneralPrimeevil
#11
Posted 12 February 2006 - 07:46 AM
#12
Posted 18 February 2006 - 07:09 PM
PICTURES NOW UP AND WORKING SEE THE SECOND PAGE OF THIS THREAD FOR THE CRAPPY PICS!!!
Anyway, I ended up using a Basketball pump and hacksawing the nozzle off the front. I used parts from a dollar store gun to make the marker barrel
fit better. I used an entire stick of hot-glue, and everything is air tight. The air displacement is amazing, and it can shoot stock micros about 20-30'. Once I start using stefans, I should get a little better ranges.
The green on the basketball pump is my own custom paint job. The small bright green tube is the marker barrel. The black thing in between the pump and the barrel is the dollar store gun piece. It works MUCH better than I thought it would, but it has a long way to go before it can be considered "decent." The dart must be fired manually, meaning that you yourself pump out the dart. Because of this, I decide the power. The more force I apply to the pump, the farther the dart goes. Later, I plan to use different ammunition and possibly add rubber bands, so that it is not completely manual. Once I get my hands on some FBR and rubber bands, I'll preform somemore range tests.
Note: Because of some law of air physics I do not understand, the rubber bands make the Basketball pump move fairly slowly, not allowing enough pressure to lauch the dart far at all. This forces me to use an excessive amount of rubber bands just to get the amount of "SNAP" that I need to launch the dart.
Edited by Raj Man, 19 February 2006 - 09:28 AM.
-GeneralPrimeevil
#13
Posted 19 February 2006 - 12:42 AM
#14
Posted 19 February 2006 - 01:59 AM
for the barrel just use a 1" coupling and a 1"=1/2" reducer coupling inserted into one side. Use a dremel to grind out the inside of the side of the coupling you intend to attach to the closer.
Piney- the 'light duty' closer I bought, which gets single barrel 1500 range and is more than adequate, only cost me about eight bucks at true value. It may even be cheaper at a lowes or home depot.
The closer is already spring loaded, and doesn't need banding or anything. I've got a design in mind for a handle on the casing and a handle on the rod for cocking, but the trigger mechanism I'm thinking about, which utilizes the little metal thing that holds the door open, may need some more work. When I'm not worried about midterms I'll get back to it.
On basketball pumps- My experience is that the o-rings usually get stretched out and come off after the first few shots if you've got a high powered spring or bungee on it, but you may have found a more sturdy basketball pump than I did. Here is a pic of the pump I used, and what I tried to do with it.
You can poop in my toilet anytime champ.
2016 Nerf War Schedule
Bless you, my son. Now recite 3 New Members Guides and 5 Code of Conducts for your sins.
#15
Posted 19 February 2006 - 07:01 AM
I couldn't help but notice the HL cd, do you follow any of the speedruns?
#16
Posted 19 February 2006 - 09:22 AM
Enjoy! All I have to do now is sand off the end of the barrel until it is smooth so that the gun stops shredding up my darts!
-GeneralPrimeevil
#17
Posted 19 February 2006 - 01:59 PM
Nice looking so far, raj, but if you have the same problems with the pump that I had, I would recomment getting a light duty door closer from the hardware store. They're almost as cheap as a Basketball pump, and they already have the spring and half the trigger mech.
You can poop in my toilet anytime champ.
2016 Nerf War Schedule
Bless you, my son. Now recite 3 New Members Guides and 5 Code of Conducts for your sins.
#18
Posted 20 February 2006 - 11:20 AM
Yeah, thanks! I'm going to pick up one of those closers as soon as it gets warmer up here in MA. It's been reeeeeally cold recently. My hands turned blue when I went outside! Anyway, the heavy amount of factory lube that was already on the gun is beginning to wear off, so my problem with the rubber bands is fixed because the pumping arm can now move freely. I still need about 5 or 6 bands to get consistent ranges, but I just found a stash of rubber bands at my dad's office. The gun works best without the rubber bands, fired manually. when this is done, I get consistent ranges of 35'. When I use all my strength, I get 40'. I have also recently put a ring of hot glue over the end of the barrel and put tons of electrical tape over all spots from which air could leak, which greatly improves its seal. The only place I have not put e-tape is over the small space in between the metal plunger arm and the back end of the plunger body. Does anyone know what kind of material could be applied there in order to improve air seal?Nice looking so far, raj, but if you have the same problems with the pump that I had, I would recomment getting a light duty door closer from the hardware store. They're almost as cheap as a Basketball pump, and they already have the spring and half the trigger mech.
-GeneralPrimeevil
#20
Posted 20 February 2006 - 04:14 PM
I call it the Hand Cannon of imminent DOOM. Now it has a "grenade" launcher, a sight
(red lego piece), and a whole lot better air seal! Damn, that metal grenade hurts like a bitch when you get hit with it. I should probably cover the grenade with foam.
EDIT: sorry it's so blurry. The grenade is the silver cylinder at the bottom next to the bag o' darts. The silver over the barrel is what allows the grenade to be shot.
Edited by Raj Man, 20 February 2006 - 04:18 PM.
-GeneralPrimeevil
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