This isn't exactly a write up because there are so many NF mods that you don't need to see the same things written over again, but I'll include the information that makes this mod different.
For starters do the standard air restrictor removal, and remove all of the components of the built in light, but save the plastic tube that the light mounts to.
For the barrel you want to follow the instructions for Cxwq's telescoping brass barrel which are at the bottom of this article. The only difference is you want your largest diameter brass to be 2" long, the medium diameter is 1 1/4", and the smallest brass is 1/4" long. Epoxy all of that inside 2" of 1/2" diameter PVC. The original write up makes a 10" barrel instead of a 2" one, but the NF doesn't push enough air to effectively use a 10" barrel, I tried that first. Here's a picture of the barrel installed in the gun and a picture where you can see down the barrel a bit.
The advantage of this barrel is that it can be front loaded like the stock barrel, but it also gets a nice increase in power, and distance as well. I'll have numbers once I can find a good place to measure distances. I don't know if anyone else has tried telescoping brass on a NF before, but I hadn't seen any posts about it.
The other thing about my NF that makes it an "actual" Nite Finder is that I integrated a maglite into the actual case. I've seen other mods where people have taped the tiny maglites to the bottom of the gun, but this is an actual integration. I noticed that mini maglites run on two AA batteries, which is what the built in "laser" is powered by. This gave me the idea to take the guts of a maglite and wire it in to use the built in battery compartment. Instead of using the regular maglite bulb I used a LED replacement kit so the light would be brighter and last longer. Sadly I don't have pictures from the inside of the lighting rig(*EDIT*Here are some pictures for building the lighting rig.), but on the back of the bulb there are two little pieces of metal, which you obviously connect to the battery compartment and the switch. The important thing to note is that the light won't work unless the positive side of the power flow is connected to the correct piece of metal. They aren't labeled so you'll have to test to see which is the positive side. The positive side of the battery compartment is the one to the back of the gun, and this is also the connection you'll want to break with the switch so there won't be power in the light when you don't have it on. For a switch go to any electronics store and you should be able to buy switches, just make sure that they are On-Off(clicks on and off) switches and not momentary(you have to hold it down for the light to stay on). I chose a rocker switch for mine, but as long as you can get it to fit inside the case you can choose whatever style you want. I used epoxy to connect the top piece of a mini maglite, the clear lense, the reflector included with the LED replacement kit, and the LED bulb itself. The next step is to solder the wires onto the bulb connectors, making sure not to let any solder connect them together, I used a piece of paper to keep them separate during the soldering process. I know that sounds complicated without pictures, but if you have the things infront of you it's not hard. Next is where the mounting plastic you saved from before comes into play. You'll want to trim it down a bit so your light/lens component will fit(see next picture). Also the hole in the gun case needs to be dremeled out a bit so that the maglite piece fits. While you're at it you might want to take the time to cut a hole for your switch. Here's a picture so you can get an idea of how it's all supposed to work. I think the picture is easier to use than the words:
Once you have all of your parts installed and the wires soldered in, just assemble the case and you're good to go with an actual flashlight integration for your NF. If you aren't going to nerf in darker lighting conditions there's not too much use for it, but it's always fun to shine in your opponent's eyes, and it's useful for finding stephans if you haven't painted them. Plus it looks cool having a switch built into the case.
And tada finished mod:
I cut off the ammo holders but it's really not necessary for the mod. This is my first write up so if I left anything out or something is unclear I'll answer any questions. Hope you like it.
*EDIT*Linked to my other post with the extra pictures for building the lighting rig.
Edited by SpectreX, 23 January 2006 - 12:11 AM.