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When Titans Fall

Need help fixing Titan

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#1 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 05:35 PM

Ok so I have had my Titan for a little while now and just recently took it out. 20 minutes after it was pumped it had no pressure. So I opened up the gun and found the leak was here.
Posted Image

Posted Image

The leak is coming directly from inbetween the pin and the air chamber. After the gun is pumped I can here it whispering out. If the pin is pushed in, it leaks if the pin is pulled a little it leaks and if it is motionless it leaks a bit too. Someone please help! I dont wanna lose my baby! If you need any more info or such let me know. I think I listed everything. Would a thick lube do it? There is a brownish lube on the pin already.

Edited by Forsaken_angel24, 28 December 2005 - 05:38 PM.

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#2 LastManAlive

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 05:51 PM

You need to get some 3 in 1 oil and drip into the valve. This is easier if you remove whatever barrel is on the gun.
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#3 Maverick Master

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 08:07 PM

is it a hole or something else because if it is a hole just fill it in with epoxy or hot glue
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#4 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 08:49 PM

It is a hole, but the hole was put there intentionally by Nerf. Going through the hole is the firing pin. The trigger is connected to the firing pin. The firing pin then goes through the air-tank connecting to the valve that opens at the front of the titan. This valve releases the air. If I were to plug the hole with epoxy then the firing pin would not be able to be pulled because it would then be fastened in place.

I hope I am not right but it seems I need a thicker lube to put on the firing pin so it creates a better seal between the plastic and the pin. I just dont see how lube can hold air without being pushed aside.

Anyone else have any idea's, suggestions, a surefire way to cure my baby?
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#5 LastManAlive

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 09:44 PM

WD40 or 3 in 1 works best. Only thing about WD40 is, it thickens more than you expect. Sure it is thick enough to give it a seal, but it will get thicked when you let it rest for a while. 3 in 1 doesn't get thicker like that. Thus, making it a better lube. WD40 is better for a quck fix.
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#6 Nerferc

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 10:10 PM

Doesn't WD40 eat away at plastic?
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#7 LordoftheRing434

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 11:58 PM

it seems I need a thicker lube to put on the firing pin so it creates a better seal between the plastic and the pin. I just dont see how lube can hold air without being pushed aside.

It'll be worth a shot to lube that tube.

I'm not sure what effect WD40 will have on the plastic. If you don't want to take any chances, I'd stick with some sort of silicone spray. I've only used it to lube my plunger shafts in my spring guns, but perhaps it will help with your seal. One thing is for sure; it's not going to chew away at the plastic like your other petro-based lubricants will. I'm just not sure how thick the lubricant will be. Good luck with the fix!

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#8 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 02:17 AM

I would rather spend the $8 on this stuff than risk the gun breaking again on me.
Jigaloo

I do beleive petroleum based lubes will eat away at rubber and plastic.

Has anyone else encountered this problem. Seriously I am up for all tip and suggestions.
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I know its bad,
After what we had,
But Iím just not the angel you knew.

#9 Jakethesnake

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 02:31 AM

Just try the 3 in 1 oil on it, what's the worst that can happen? If that doesn't work then report back.
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#10 Falcon

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 02:52 AM

I don't know about the petro-based stuff, bit LordoftheRing is right. Silicone lube is the best for nerf stuff in general, followed closely by graphite. In my humble opinion. The only problem with graphite is that ist's semi-gritty, and doesn'tcreate the incredible seal that silicone lube does for me. The silicone lube I use is for Hitch Balls, and I can apply it with a cue-tip.

Avoid spray oils, because they dry out when there's no movenemt, and they stick and gum up, thus needing to be freed up before each use. The hend-applied silicone lube will not dry and stick. It's all over the inside of my xbow's plunger casing, as well as the plunger head. The seal is so good, that when the bands aren't on the gun and there is a dart loaded, the stock spring doesn't have enough force to push the dart out. It stops halfway down the plunger shaft because there is absolutely NO air escaping from the plunger.

In short, if there is air leaking out from the firing pin, use some "solid" consistency of silicone lube (preferably non-spray.)
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#11 Lukeinator

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 08:58 AM

Same thing happened to my SM1500. It was an extremely huge leak, not "whispering out" but more like PSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. I put some silicone lube on it and it helped a bit, but not enough. It might fix it if the leak is small enough.
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#12 hoshiadam

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 09:35 AM

Since I don't have one in front of me to look at, I'm not sure if this is good advice or not - but if the lube doesn't work, could you take the pin out, and apply some electrical tape or a thin layer of epoxy the thicken the pin, then relube it and put it back together?

Another possibility, if there is enough clearance, would be to add an o-ring to the outside and squish it flat. Drill a hole slightly larger than the pin in a thin piece of plastic, then make a slit to slide the plastic piece onto the pin. Get an o-ring that fits around the pin, put it on the pin, then sandwich it between the thin plastic and the back of the tube. Epoxy the thin plastic to the tube, then lube up the o-ring and you've basically built a new seal on it.

Adam
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#13 Meaker VI

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 01:54 PM

I've already recomended this to Forsaken, but I said that white lithium or silocone greese would be thicker and less potentially damaging to the gun. Anything petrolium based is a bad idea on plastics or rubber, simply because you don't know exactly what will happen. I wouldn't risk WD-40 or 3 in 1 on it even, because although they are readily available they are petrolium based. I used WD-40 on a gunked up airsoft gun once and it sticks sometimes now. Besides, WD-40 is supposed to evaporate, not stay in place.

Oh, and a bike shop would be another good place to look, they have some unusual greeses and lubes too.
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#14 man with many guns

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 02:13 PM

I'm not sure I under sdtand the problem, but if it was me I would goop over that hole, and e-tape ove the goop. Let it dry, then I think that should work.
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#15 NerfMonkey

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 03:27 PM

No, the leak is where the pin pulls out of the tank, not an actual hole.

I had this problem on an SM500, I'm still going to try to fix it, thanks for posting this thread because it gave me some ideas.

Adam, the problem with taking out the pin is simple: it doesn't come out. You'd have to saw the tank in half to get the thing out and even then I'm not sure if you could get access to the whole thing, and with a tank that massive it would be a nightmare to try to Goop it back in half again and maintain a good seal. Another problem is that if you applied anything like epoxy over the pin it would create too much friction and it wouldn't open fast enough, decreasing the range. Or it wouldn't allow it to open at all unless you had an exact amount of epoxy that was the exact thickness all around the whole thing.

Good luck with your Titan.
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#16 hoshiadam

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 03:51 PM

One more possible idea, to build a new seal.

Lube the pin first, then wrap the pin with electrical tape, sticky side out. Only use a small strip. If you are good with tape cutting, make the strip so it tapers down a little over the length - wider at first and then gets smaller as it is wrapped. Once the tape is about 1/8" thick or more, glue it down to the tank, taking care not to get glue too close to the pin. If the leak is small, the tape might provide a tight enough seal around the pin, and will be customized to the shape of the pin. Just make sure that as the glue is drying, you move the pin a little while keeping the tape in place. Also, roll the top edge of the tape outward, so the pin is sliding into a funnel shape. That should prevent the tape from sticking to the pin if the lube dries out.

You could even start with a more slippery tape also, but I think the electrical tape combined with a silicone lube would probably be slick enough to not interfere with the pin motion. A rubber that could be wrapped around the pin would probably work best, but I couldn't think of an easy source for that.

Testing the lube and tape together before doing it might be a good idea also, to make sure they don't react oddly.

Adam
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#17 Jakethesnake

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 07:32 PM

That has got to be one of the stupidest ideas I've heard in a long time, among others, are "opening up the airtank" and simply "put some epoxy around the pin". If you guys have no experience with modding a titan, or from your answers, any gun at all, then just don't post.
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#18 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 08:12 PM

could you take the pin out, and apply some electrical tape or a thin layer of epoxy the thicken the pin, then relube it and put it back together?

This actually gave me a really good idea. I am not going to take the pin out but I will do something involving e-tape,hotglue and jigaloo lube. I will post pics and other sheiza when its working again. Thanks guys :lol:
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I don't get my kicks out of you,
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I know its bad,
After what we had,
But Iím just not the angel you knew.

#19 SupG

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 10:13 PM

I'm not sure I under sdtand the problem, but if it was me I would goop over that hole, and e-tape ove the goop. Let it dry, then I think that should work.

It(the pin) is a moving part so goop wouldn't work.
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#20 man with many guns

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 10:26 PM

I'm not sure I under sdtand the problem, but if it was me I would goop over that hole, and e-tape ove the goop. Let it dry, then I think that should work.

It(the pin) is a moving part so goop wouldn't work.

Sorry, I didn't under stand the problem.
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#21 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 03:23 AM

Eureeeka!!!!! Ladies and gents I have solved the problem.

What I did was wrap a peice of electrical tape around the firing pin so that the e-tape acts as another insulator. When the trigger not being squeezed its pushed against the hole helping to keep in the air. When the trigger is pulled the e-tape pulls with the pin and allows the hole to be open that little bit again. There is a very strong hot glue holding the tape in place and stopping it from unwinding over time.

Here is a pic of the pin when the trigger is being pulled.
Posted Image

Here is a pic of when the trigger is in its normal position.
Posted Image

As you can see I added some hot glue and its a lil messy. I added hot glue to get rid of most of the trigger slack. I figured I might as well because I had the gun open and didnt want to open it again because the Titan screws are the cheapest peices of shit I have ever come across in nerf.

I used the jigaloo lube in/around the pinhole and put some in the valve too. This stuff works great on valves and pins but doesnt act well on pumps. With alot of pumping friction, the stuff becomes thick and kinda hard making the pump seem like its more of a scraping than a smooth movement. I used some to lube up my supersoaker pump and it ended badly. I had to clean out the pump shaft. After I pumped it, I felt the rubber blocky O-ring like thing inside and it was very hot. Dont use this stuff on pumps.

I hope this helps alot of people out there because it seemed to be a big problem in which nobody had an answer for. Now people can pump their high powered guns with this kind of pin and not have to fire right away.



EDIT: This Jigaloo stuff is fucking garbage. after it dried it didnt lube anything. Now I have an issue with my valve I beleive that it wont close properly because of the jigaloo lube in it that somehow hardened. Fuck! It is always one problem after the next. The tape thing will work once I find a proper lube. Can anyone reccomend a good silicone lube that will actually work?

Edited by Forsaken_angel24, 30 December 2005 - 03:35 AM.

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I don't get my kicks out of you,
I don't feel the way I used to do.
I know its bad,
After what we had,
But Iím just not the angel you knew.

#22 Meaker VI

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 02:35 PM

Here is a site that has the specifics of the stuff listed out and sells it. Googling "silicone grease" yeilds tons of results, you can probably get it at your local hardware store. The stuff shouldn't dry out or fail, it is used for computers (among other things).

Edited by Meaker VI, 30 December 2005 - 02:36 PM.

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#23 SupG

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 03:04 PM

I'm not sure I under sdtand the problem, but if it was me I would goop over that hole, and e-tape ove the goop. Let it dry, then I think that should work.

It(the pin) is a moving part so goop wouldn't work.

Sorry, I didn't under stand the problem.

Ya well thats ok.
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#24 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 03:12 PM

Alright well I used Dielectric silicone lube. This stuff is really thick and it was able to fix another one of my guns and it was able to fix the leak in the back. It was not strong enough however to fix the valve at the front of the gun. I blame jigaloo for this. I now have to cut into the case and see if I can find out whats wrong. If anyone has any good ideas on what I should do from here please post them.


This lube was thick enough to fix another leaky valve gun I had so it was not a total waste :unsure:

Edited by Forsaken_angel24, 09 January 2006 - 03:15 PM.

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I don't get my kicks out of you,
I don't feel the way I used to do.
I know its bad,
After what we had,
But Iím just not the angel you knew.


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