9 replies to this topic

[PwNeD]

I was just wondering if making a Secret shot (not the SS2) shoot out of like PVC or PETG or brass?
Basically, I mean is it possible to make it shoot out of a tube that seals with the dart rather than with a tube going into the middle of the dart like it already does?
Sorry if I posted this in the wrong section or anything.

[Sinfil]

What I take it your asking is whether it is possible to have a barrel that the dart goes inside of, as opposed to a barrel that sticks into the dart?

Yes, that is how we (almost) 100% of the time do it. 1/2" CPVC fits stefans (homeade darts) snugly, while 1/2" brass and copper fit it losely. If you are still using stock darts with your guns, I would either:

-Ditch them and start making stefans, or...
-Use 1/2" PVC barrels.

Hope that helps,

-SInnER-

[PwNeD]

Thanks, I have quite a few stefans (like 30 or 40) but, my Powerclip leaks, and my Blasfire doesn't shoot semi-auto ("modded" it to shoot full auto by removing the green part on top, and firing by pushing forward on the whipe plunger type thing), so I have pretty much no use for them.
But on the inside of the SS1 there is the plunger, then an orange air tank, and then the tube, and upper barrel of the gun are on a seperate peice of plastic...
So how could I make the 1/2" PVC make a seal?



Also, since I am lazy, is the re-released BBB very good? I head it has a mechanism that keeps it from shooting unless the darts press on a thing in the barrel.

[WratH]

The BBB thing is most likely true, my stock NF Ex-3 had them same with an old SM1500 one of my friends had. It's called air restriction. Learn to hate it. The first thing you wanna do when modding is get the air restriction out.

[man with many guns]

If your using micro stefans, then you don't want to use 1/2 pvc.
Micros- 1/2" CPVC(tight), PETG(loose or tight, depending on your FBR), Brass(loose), Copper (loose, I think)
Megas- 1/2" Pvc(loose or tight, depending if it's lbue or black lettered(black is loose,blue is thight) , large sizes of brass(loose)
For air guns you want loose, for spring you want tight. The secret shot is a spring gun. Any gun that you pump is an air gun, any gun that you cock is a spring gun.

[PwNeD]

Ok, thanks guys, but I still don't know how to make the seal between the PVC and the chamber, and also, there is this little green plate thing i would have to break off to just attatch it straight to the chamber, so I don't want to do something non-reversable only to find out it doesn't work.

[gordon]

You guys aren't getting it. Give the guy some credit, he is not a retard. He knows what a barell replacement is and how to use stefans with them. He is asking if it can be done on this specific gun. This is a good question too because if you look at the internals of a SS1, you will see that it would be very difficult to seal a replacement barrel to the plunger because of the restricters. I purchased one on ebay a while ago and have been waiting forever for it to come in. I was planning on replacing both of the barells while still in their original positions. I would dremmel/file out bigger holes in the restricers first, and then use lots of hot glue and e-tape to try to seal it straight. Also, If you want to do the three barell revolver mod, then the answer to your original question is no, you can't mod the gun to shoot stefans(or make the barell go around the dart instead of into it, as you like to say).

EDIT: If you want to single barell it straight to the plunger like you said, just remove all the pieces in between the barell and the plunger, then take out the hidden barell because it is now useless, since your seal is direct. You can make the hole in the plunger larger (if necessary) with a round file and/or dremmel. If some restricters are necessary like on a NF, then file/dremmel them out. Glue your barell to the plunger and secure it with e-tape. You just have to try to make it as straight as possible. It will work, don't worry. But it is not the best mod for the gun. Single-barelling a gimick-gun is pointless. You should do the old 3-barell regular dart mod or try what I am attempting.

Edited by gordon, 15 December 2005 - 12:34 AM.

[PissBacon]

Gordon, you're right on the spot with this. The only thing I don't agree with is what you say about 3 barrel mods. I'm not positive, but it sounds like you think it's not possible to make one; I own the gun and know I could do it (my ss case is brutalized though, so I'm not troubling to mod it anymore).

[gordon]

No... I don't think I said that. Three barrel mods are very possible. There are write-ups everywhere. Just drill out the "false" whole in the triangle switcher part, seal the "hidden" barrel to that whole, and cut a piece out of the straight part of the clear tupe that leads to where the old barell used to be. Cut off the remaining part of the clear tubing, and seal your straight piece back on. I learned that from Falcon's sight so props to him. But very possible, I don't think I ever gave the impression that it wasn't? Anyway, I got mine in today and I have already begun the mod it. The brass fits nicely over the original barell stup pieces. It will be so much easier to seal that a NF it's not even funny. The spring is nice too. And there are actually two springs. There are two main problems. There is no way that you can widen the air path more than the width of your mouse cord. Also, the seal between the rotating barell piece and the plunger is rediculously poor. The plunger tube is huge though. I am gonna get a really strong replacement spring eventually and inforce the crap out of this gun. It has great potential. If you single barelled it, I would say it could get 80 ft or more. But, like I said earlier, single barelling a gimmicky gun is poinless. You want to keep the gimmick, or at least take advantage of its individuality in some way like the 3-barell revolver.

[mayhem]

Just as extra information: Here's what I did:

http://www.freewebs....ds.htm#32983047

There are 2 write-ups there.