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#1 J cobbers

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Posted 19 October 2005 - 05:41 PM

This thread is for putting up simple mods and examples for nerf guns.
If you have a mod you can post it here, or link to a thread about your mod. Please don't put coments about other peoples mod's in this thread unless it is to ask a question about the mod.

Also before asking questions in this thread be sure to read this article by Ragnorocks. It covers the very basics of modifications.

Detailed write ups and pictures are encouraged to be added to this thread, and again keep comments on them to a minimum, i.e. no posts like "dude that's sweet", "nice mod" or "your awesome ability to mod has me questioning my sexuality."

Rather make comments like "that is an original idea, but I do not understand how works, could you explain it more clearly and provide a better picture?" or "What sort of glue works best to splice hoses on pump guns?" The answer by the way is plumbers goop, and I also like to use hose clamps for extra relaibility.

Edited by J_cobbers, 19 October 2005 - 05:42 PM.

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#2 J cobbers

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 01:16 PM

Ok there hasn't been a post in here in a while, but I thought of a usefull addition for determining ideal barrel lengths. I'm culling this from my post in this barrel length thread

When I first got into nerfing, (about 6 years ago as an undergrad) I had a literal rocket scientist (i.e. grad student friend in the aero space engineering program at Univeristy of Wisconsin Madision) explain why simply adding a longer barrel to a nerf gun increases range so drastically even if you do not increase the over all power. What I mean to say is the following explains that darts to not have a constant velocity as they move down the barrel but actually acceleate until they leave it.

It works like this;
1) assuming a low ammount of friction is acting on the dart as it moves down the barrel the expanding air behind it acts like a spring, pushing the dart forward until the pressure in the barrel is equal to that of the atmosphere. Thus the dart is accually being accellerated through the entire lenght of the barrel until the pressure behind it can no longer over come the forces of friction and air resistance.

2) Continuing the spring analogy If the barrel is too long (i.e. the volume of the barrel is greater than the volume of air acting on the dart once reduced to atmophereic pressuer), once the dart to passes a point where the air pressure is equal on both sides, a deceleration effect takes place. Basically once the dart passes the equalibrium point and still has not left the barrel, it creates a vaccume behind it which slows it down, and you actually loose pressure.

In theory what all this means is that in theory if you can calculate the volume of air moved by a gun you should be able to use that to calculate the length of of your barrel for your gun. Pi x r^2 x length = volume as we are dealing with cylinders.


In air pressure guns you must calculate how much air fit inside the pump and multiply that by the number of times you can pump the gun. Use that as the volume for your barrel when calculating maximum length. Of course you'll want to take into consideration that friction and air resistance will use up some of the energy from the air pressure acting on the dart, and so you should not use the full
lenght from you barrel calculation. It is safe to say that if you subtract a few inches from your final calcualtion you should be ok.

For a spring based gun the maximum lenght for a barrel material is the same, figure out the volume of air moved by the plunger, and use that figure to determine barrel length, and take off a few inches to cover for friction and air resistance. Keep in mind that a spring gun does not use the full volume of the plunger tube, measure from where the plunger is fully retacted to the front of the plunger tube (barrel end).

Edited by J_cobbers, 22 February 2006 - 01:16 PM.

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#3 MikeTV

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 12:09 AM

I have not been able to find any posts about stretching springs on any of the forums. I stretched my springs and gained quite a bit of power. I figured that this is either an obvious mod or a mod that for some reason is a no-no in the nerfing world, due to the non-exsistant posts about the topic. Pardon the noobness, but is there a drawback to this or is it just so obvious that no one has taken time to post it? Or.... Am I just a monster forumtard that cannot find anything about this?
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#4 Carbon

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 12:17 AM

Just go into the mods forum and search for "stretching". I found a few threads that talk about it. The short answer about stretching, though, is that it isn't worth it. You get short term gains in spring power, but the spring eventually goes back to its old shape...not to mention that stretching weakens it.
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#5 kinkaid701

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Posted 06 May 2007 - 12:27 PM

there is a gun that my firend modded... in the name it has the letters- A1 - or something... its pump is in the back and it has a pressure gauge. it is one of the best mods iv'e every seen...(but wtf do i know??/im a new nerfer)

i want to know what the gun was called(cuz not even he knows the own name of the flipin gun)

and i need to know how to mod it

ty




p.s IF ANYONE KNOWS WHAT IT IS, PM ME!!!!

Edited by kinkaid701, 06 May 2007 - 12:28 PM.

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#6 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 06 May 2007 - 12:56 PM

I'd bet money that it is the Titan. It says "Titan AS-V1" right on the gun. It also says "N-strike" right on the gun.
If you even looked at the shell of this gun you would have seen that. If you searched either Titan or N strike you would have immediatley known what it is. Try and do "something" yourself about what you want to know before you ask the NIC.

Edited by Forsaken_angel24, 06 May 2007 - 12:56 PM.

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#7 firstblood

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 04:11 PM

Sorry if this has been posted on the thread, but I have been searching the sight and I was wondering what would be a good replacement spring for the catch spring on the NF.
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#8 Gengar003

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 09:10 PM

I (and others, so I hear) have used the springs from inside clicky-pens with wild success~!

Just make sure it's a cheap pen, or one that no-one in your house/family wants... ;)
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#9 commander erik

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Posted 01 June 2007 - 04:07 PM

I (and others, so I hear) have used the springs from inside clicky-pens with wild success~!

Just make sure it's a cheap pen, or one that no-one in your house/family wants... :rolleyes:


Yes, just make sure to cut it a little bit (1/8"-ish) longer than what the original spring was.
EDIT: It now seems obvious that since you don't have the stock spring, you wouldn't know how long to cut a new one. :rolleyes:
I would cut it about 3/4" at first, then cut it off until it fits. I believe that it should be a hair more or less than 1/2" when you are done. Don't quote me on that, though, it's been a while since I've opened my NF up.

Edited by commander erik, 01 June 2007 - 04:12 PM.

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#10 nerfboi

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Posted 05 June 2007 - 11:14 PM

Also, some people are able to nest 1.2 CPVc INTO PVC. How is that possible cause apperently, My kind of CPVC and PVC don't mix.
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#11 frost vectron

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 12:01 AM

Same here. You have to bore out the PVC with a dremel to get the CPVC to fit.

Other people have put their CPVC on a lathe and thinned the walls until it fits in the PVC.
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#12 wintermute

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 03:23 PM

Also, some people are able to nest 1.2 CPVc INTO PVC. How is that possible cause apperently, My kind of CPVC and PVC don't mix.



You can fit a 1/2 CPVC coupler into a 1/2 PVC coupler.

Also, 1/2 CPVC can be nested in 1/2 thinwall PVC (Lowe's and Home Depot sell it).
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#13 nerfboi

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 06:25 PM

Really? What part of Lowe's has the Thinwall PVC?
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#14 wintermute

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Posted 06 June 2007 - 06:31 PM

...in the PVC section...
I found it in plumbing, with the sch 40 PVC.
My Lowes had the PVC arranged from biggest to smallest, and the thinwall was just past the sch 40 1/2 inch at the end, if that helps at all.
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#15 Kash munni

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 07:07 PM

Just thought I'd post something about adding springs. We all know to be careful when adding springs, because stock nerf trigger catch mechanisms aren't indestructable. But another reason is because if a spring or series of springs bottom out (as in they are compressed to their max) , but still goes past the catch mechanism, then you can't cock the gun. For example, I added a small spring along with my NF spring into the NF, and it works fine. But when I put another spring just like the smaller one in it as well, making two springs, it wouldn't cock. So try to test your compressed spring length before putting your gun back together. I didn't, and it is really frustrating taking the gun apart again.
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#16 MrNerf

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 05:29 PM

:P um...do we have to use math formulas? Can someone make a "modding nerf guns for dummies!", lol?
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#17 Philote

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 05:35 PM

Why? Why God????? I have nothing else to say here.
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#18 MrNerf

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 05:40 PM

i'm just saying there's no noob-friendly guide is all. :P
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#19 jwasko

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 06:34 PM

"Modding Nerf Guns Blasters for Dummies Complete Morons"


1. Identify the blaster that you wish to modify. If you don't know the name of the blaster, look around Orange's site, NerfCenter , and on the NerfWiki

2. Go to the writeup directory and look up the writeup(s) for the blaster. If there is more than one writeup, read all of them. Also, read the entire writeup thread; there may be additional information posted long after the original writeup (see: Forsaken Angel's Magstrike writeup thread).

3. Choose a writeup and follow the directions, being sure to follow any advice not in the original post as well.

4. If you have any problems, use the search function.

5. If you can't find anything by searching, send a private message or email to whomever wrote the writeup you are using. If they do not respond for several days, send a private message or email to someone like Forsaken_Angel24 or CaptainSlug. If they can't answer your question, then you can feel free to post a topic asking the question.

Other notes/advice:

A. For your first modification, do something simple like this Nitefinder modification.

B. Don't modify any old/rare blasters (i.e., ones that are no longer readily available in retail stores) until you have a good amount of experience modifying blasters.

C. Don't try to modify a Longshot, Recon, or Maverick until you get more experience, either. Especially don't try to modify a Longshot.

D. Once you get some experience with basic modifications and some more complicated ones, try "inventing" your own, original modifications.

As a side note:

Check out the New Members Guide; it provides helpful links of the sort mentioned above, as well as links to tutorials on such subjects as posting images. Also, it gives tons of advice on how to act on Nerf forums...including how to not get banned!

And there you have it. Satisfied?

Edit: I added it to the Wiki. Because I felt like it.

Edited by jwasko, 27 March 2008 - 07:18 PM.

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#20 MrNerf

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 06:50 PM

(transfers nucks from other article to this guide)
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#21 Retiate

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 12:30 AM

I just want to say that the equation that states barrel length should have a volume of approximately 1/4 the volume of your plunger can be very inaccurate. I was using this a while ago for my Pump Shotgun. Now, that thing has a massive plunger tube, the biggest I've ever seen in any Nerf Gun. I came out with something like 11" or 12". I wanted to use a telescoping barrel that was longer than my normal one (I was convinced my 12" barrel could be longer and it didn't maximize efficiency). So, I came to find that the telescoping part decreased the barrel size because it has a larger diameter, and so it increased the volume of the barrel. So this kind of double messed up the length. A looser barrel made the barrel shorter in the equation, but it also reduced friction, allowing an even longer barrel. I now use 11" of heavy wall PETG telescoping into 3"-4" of medium wall PETG. I get much better ranges than with my older 12" heavy wall PETG barrel.
So, the equation works well for less precise measuring like for a sidearm, where you aren't really looking to max out the ranges. However, for a primary, you definitely need to either refine the equation to account for friction, or experiment a lot. I will probably try longer/shorter telescoping barrels in the future to find what works best.

And to Mr. Nerf, definitely check out the NerfWiki that Jwasko provided a nice link to. It's got lots of useful information on it.
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#22 Galaxy613

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Posted 03 April 2008 - 03:58 PM

Here's some n00b questions that need explantion:

When someone says "Used/Get 1/2'' CPVC" do they mean 1/2 inner diameter, or outer diameter?

Is PVC and CPVC the same thing? Could I just use PVC as a barrel?
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#23 xNFx 37

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Posted 03 April 2008 - 04:15 PM

CPVC almost fits in PVC, so your answer is no. If you wanted to use PVC, you have to use megas, unless you nest something in it. CPVC, is already a really good fit on CDTS size stefans.
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#24 Green Riptide

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Posted 03 April 2008 - 04:18 PM

Captain Slug can field the ID question since that seems to be a favorite rambling point of his. :P

Suffice it to say, though, that CPVC and PVC are NOT the same thing. PVC is usually a white pipe that has larger ID's than similar sizes of CPVC. It also tends to come in larger size options period. Most PVC is very loose to use on stock darts.

CPVC is off-white to yellow, sometimes with a yellow stripe along the side. I believe it is intended for cold-water plumbing in the non-NERF world. Most CPVC is fairly tight on stock darts. CPVC tends to come in smaller diameters than PVC, as well.

You could use PVC as a barrel, but unless you know what you're getting into your darts will probably just fall out the end.
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#25 Bomberman

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Posted 03 April 2008 - 04:29 PM

Green riptide, you pretty much explained it, but the technical difference from CPVC to PVC is that PVC measures the ID only, but CPVC measures the whole diameter, inner and outer, combined. Just a little something to add. And GR, you're right, CPVC does have a tighter fir on most darts. But I can say that for a gun like the titan, I put a 1/2 inch PVC barrel, (attaches to a coupler and has a dart stop), for stock darts, like Micros, PVC is good, because you can put them all the way at the back of the barrel easily, and they are MUCH more accurate when they are a long ways down the barrel.
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QUOTE(silentsnipe) View Post

It's not like that. I put lube on it and its the same. Its just stuck. And when I cock it back it goes farther back then usual. Also I push as hard as I can and it wont go back in. I've tried the methods and they wont work. Also pics are up.


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