34 replies to this topic

[rusty]

REQUIRED READING: Thirst's Semi Auto 2k

Previously I tried to integrate a semi-auto 2k into a maverik for true a true semi automatic weapon with awesome range. That proved way to unwieldy with the heavy rf20 bladder glued to the top. So I decided to try to integrate the semi auto 2k into a firefly.





Once I get everything fitting nice and tight I'll epoxy all the connections and get some ranges.

I used an sm3k pump shaft, connected to a rf20 bladder, connected to a at2k tank. I then epoxied a piece of 1/2 pvc over the tank, which then nested snuggly into the black firefly plunger shaft.

Questions? Comments? Shennanigans?

Edited by rusty, 14 November 2005 - 05:14 PM.

[flashflint]

That tank looks more like a super soaker tank than a rf20 bladder.

[Sunchip]

Very nice job. I'm just wondering how you plan on pulling off making the trigger move the turret into place without releasing the air. I was thinking something like the spring on the firing pin of a 2k could maybe make it work, as you'd pull the trigger so far before the valve is actually opened. Interesting concept, nonetheless. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

[Team Slaya]

Nice, man. I really hope it works out. But how do you get a decent seal with the turrets? Do you make the connection shove foreward when the pressure is let loose?

TS

*EDIT* Ah, I see. *END EDIT*

Edited by Team_Slaya, 28 September 2005 - 09:48 PM.

[ubernerfer]

That tank looks more like a super soaker tank than a rf20 bladder.

Its a Rf20 bladder I guess you never seen one before.

[Falcon]

I'd chop off another 1" or 1.5" off of the plunger casing, so I could stick the AT 2k valve's end right up in the hole going to the turret, then plug it up with some hot glue around the valve. The space in the empty plunger casing will leave the air way too much room to expand in there, causing a dramatic loss in range.

Plus, moving the vlve forward will make hooking up the trigger to the valve a lot easier, by simply epoxying a piece of an AT 2k trigger to the Firefly trigger piece.

Good job, though! I may have to go invest in a Firefly so I can put my spare valves and Baldders to good use!

[rusty]

I'd chop off another 1" or 1.5" off of the plunger casing, so I could stick the AT 2k valve's end right up in the hole going to the turret, then plug it up with some hot glue around the valve. The space in the empty plunger casing will leave the air way too much room to expand in there, causing a dramatic loss in range.

Plus, moving the vlve forward will make hooking up the trigger to the valve a lot easier, by simply epoxying a piece of an AT 2k trigger to the Firefly trigger piece.

I put the valve where it is because the trigger needs to rotate the turret before opening the valve, otherwise the valve and the barrel will not be lined up.

[Ronster]

Ranges??
BTW, Very Nice.
I was going to do the same, 'cept without the rf20 blatter....
You could call it the Smurf 2000 'cause thats what Smrf2k sounds like.

[baghead]

he's not done, reading must be something beyond your capacity...

Edited by baghead, 29 September 2005 - 05:09 PM.

[Ronster]

From what he said it sounded like he did...
Guess not. Sorry.

[rusty]

I finally built a reliable trigger. So now all I need to do is epoxy the pump/bladder/airtank.

[Uncle Hammer]

It looks real nice dude, I can't wait to see the finished product.

[LordoftheRing434]

Very nice. It's a good package to say the least; everything should fit cleanly. I'll be interested to see it when it's complete.

~Rings

[Falcon]

I'd chop off another 1" or 1.5" off of the plunger casing, so I could stick the AT 2k valve's end right up in the hole going to the turret, then plug it up with some hot glue around the valve. The space in the empty plunger casing will leave the air way too much room to expand in there, causing a dramatic loss in range.

Plus, moving the vlve forward will make hooking up the trigger to the valve a lot easier, by simply epoxying a piece of an AT 2k trigger to the Firefly trigger piece.

I put the valve where it is because the trigger needs to rotate the turret before opening the valve, otherwise the valve and the barrel will not be lined up.

Good call. I stand corrected.

In that case, you should put a piece of brass or CPVC or even some vinyl tubing to run the air fromt he end of the valve to the beginning of the turret so that there isn't so much room for the air to expand in. Even stuffing the sides of the Firefly plunger casing with some scrap foam so that there's less volume inside the casing for the air to expand in would work out well. I'm glad to see you've set up a trigger. I eagerly await the results.

Lastly, I would suggest barreling the turret. You'll never be able to really see full potential until your barrels fit your darts perfectly.

I still need to get ahold of one of those.

Edited by Falcon, 01 October 2005 - 11:01 PM.

[rusty]

Doneish

I've got everything together, and in the firefly case.







Ranges:
8' 6"
11'
11' 10"
13' 3"
14' 9"
17' 4"
40' 7"
39' 11"

I still need to put an inner tube on the bladder, put barrels on the turret, and i'm planning to get a better air pump. I'd like any suggestions on how to improve the seal between the barrels and airtank.

[Team Slaya]

On the third pic, what is that hot glue-looking stuff on the vinyl? Is that extra hot glue on the inside of it? That could be killing connections. Also, clean out the passageways so that the air flow isn't impeded. And make sure that you don't twist the vinyl too much, as that will also impede the flow of air. Other than that, you've got the right ideas on the banding of the bladder and the barreling. Nice job.

TS

[NinjZ]

Those are some pretty weak ranges, even with stock barrels. What kind of darts did you use? How well to they fit? How many pumps? You had some pretty big range variations.

[rusty]

I'm using 2.25" stefans with 1/4" slingshot ammo. My darts don't fit very well into the barrels, and i believe they need to be pushed down the barrels to shoot well.

[Starsnuffer]

U said semi-Automatic? that meaning you can pump it and fire every couple seconds, not that you can just pull quickly and it will shoot. I.E. adding a compressor to automatically "pump" the gun

[euphemism]

Actually it's really semi-automatic, as in you can pump it up, pull the trigger, pull the trigger, pull the trigger...
Amazing mod, rusty.

[Stalin05]

I did something similar, but i didn't use the rf20 tank. I just but a at2k pump in the bottom, and hooked it directly to the at2k tank/valve. No liquid gauge. I put the tank roughly where he did, a little farther forward. But i used 5/16in vinyl to connect the tank to the little blue thing, no expansion. Thus i rammed it as close the turret as possible. My trigger is about the same, but i used some metal sheeting that i folded. So, i have to slam the trigger, it rotates the barrels and fires correctly. Pump 4, 5 times and fire. I can get 50+ feet with standard micro darts. Fairly accurate too. Can empty 8 rounds in 15 sec at 3 pumps or about 20 for 4 pumps

[rusty]

How are you getting a constant stream of air? How are you getting multiple shots out of one at2k tank? How retarded do you think we are? Pictures would be helpful.

[J cobbers]

He isn't claiming multipul shots, basically he did what you did minus the RF tank. Thus he has to pump 3-4 times inbetween shots.

[Uncle Hammer]

Judging from the time it took him to shoot 8 shots I think he's claiming it's semi-auto. I sure as hell can't pump a gun 3-4 times and get off 8 shots in 15 secs.

[J cobbers]

Judging from the time it took him to shoot 8 shots I think he's claiming it's semi-auto. I sure as hell can't pump a gun 3-4 times and get off 8 shots in 15 secs.

He never said he was taking time to aim. Try this; use an At2k , pump it 3 times as fast as you can, fire and repeat. I bet you can get off 8 shots in under 15 seconds. remember you don't have to rotate the barrels, as this is simulating a firefly which auto rotates the barrels with the trigger pull. I tried it and it is very do able, 15 seconds is a lot longer than you think it is.