12 replies to this topic

[CheeseNerfer]

Okay I've finally found time to work on nerf now that school is out so I decided to remod my Titan so I couod take advantage of it's full potential. I might post the mod later but basically i rebarreled it with a 2 1/2 ft. long, 1/2 in. pvc outer barrel with 9/16 brass innerbarrel. The other half of the mod is working on modifying the shell and pump to look more like a modern loser rifle. Anyway onto my problem, yesterday I tested the new barrel and silencer and it shredded 3/5 darts that I tested with. From what I can tell the, I'm happy with ranges and accuracy and such but I need help making my darts stronger. I was using my 2 in long non-hollow stefans with tacks instead of bbs and a dome of hot glue. The problem is not how well I make them because they are made very well, but they were all either fishtailing or just getting ripped apart. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

[Team Slaya]

Did you check if the open sides of the brass were smooth? If they are, sand them anyway. CX did this just in case, but I think that could be one problem. Also, are you using Caulk Saver or FBR? I think FBR is more sturdy (sp?), and therefore might hold up better.

TS

[Uncle Hammer]

Ah my good man, try what cx did on his bamf mod. Linkage He cut some slits at the end of the brass, don't ask me how it works. It has something to do with the dart coming out and getting air from the slits before actually getting out of the barrel. It's kinda like staged instead of one big step, in cause making darts not so vulnerable to shredding(or atleast I think thats how it works) Correct me if I'm wrong.

[flamebo388]

As for the fish tailing you'll want heavier weights, tacks are far too light for that massive airtank.

[Lukeinator]

I actually make my steffans about an inch long. With them, my SM1500 gets 120 ft. wit the 2 inch ones, it didnt even get 80, I use size 7 fishing wieghts and a hot glue dome. This also prevents fishtailing. They work for me anyways. I hope it might help you.

[Uncle Hammer]

Is that a singled sm1500? Are those angled ranges? Because 120 out of a single let alone a turret is hard to believe.

[NerfMonkey]

For Stefans in my Titan, I use 1/4" steel slingshot ammo, and it works fine. But, mine is relatively weak, with an unplugged pump and only gets maybe 110' flat. Good luck.

[Lukeinator]

Uncle Hammer, on Jun 26 2005, 08:28 PM, said:

Is that a singled sm1500? Are those angled ranges? Because 120 out of a single let alone a turret is hard to believe.

It's not the same model as the one CX modded (his was a 2001, mine is a late 1990's), but yes, it is a turret and no it isn't angled. It's being shot from roughly 5 ft. up. The measurements are accurate as I range test on my street and my lot and my neighbor's lots are both 41 ft and my neighbor's neighbor has a lot that's 38 ft. It shoots across all 3. The shots have about 5 ft. of skip so it turns out to be about 115 ft. It's definitely my new primary. I did use the mod that CX did to his SM1500 and am using 5 or 6 pumps, that is probably why the ranges differ so greatly.

[The Inventor Guy]

No, no, no.
You've got to put 1" - 3" of 19/32" Brass over the joints of the separate brass tubes where they meet to support them better. That is only if you used 12" pieces of brass, not a 3' piece. If you end up using this method, make sure you sand the inside of the brass at the openings at EVERY END OF A TUBE. Doing so will reduce the friction from the micro-burrs on the inside of the barrel which will be ripping at your darts and weakening them as the travel through the barrel. This was also in CXWQ's BAMF writeup.
Also, yes, cut some slits at the end of the barrel. This is called porting. It helps some of the pressure escape the barrel before the dart exits so it doesn't destabilise the dart as is completely leaving the barrel. Another option is to make a muzzle-brake. What you can do for this is get a PVC + piece or a PVC T piece that fits your PVC barrel and place this at the end of your barrel. If you use a T piece, cut out a hole in the side that doesn't have an elbow, big enough for a dart to pass through. This is like a muzzle brake except it is more effective. A regular coupler would work just as well too, except here, the air would surround the dart to stabilise it rather than preventing destabilisation.

I hope this helps. Report back to us despite the outcome.

-Tidge.

Edited by The Inventor Guy, 27 June 2005 - 02:51 AM.

[ompa]

As for the ripped apart- I'm guessing this is the problem:

You use circular brass cutters, and you tighten it too much before cutting it, resulting in a "lip" that curls inwards. you need to either sand this so the lip is no longer present, or "stretch" it in a way. I used to just stick pliars into the tube, just literally, so it kind of acted like a wedge, and twisted until the edge went away. That's before I discovered there was actually a little wedge on the back of my brass cutters that allowed me to get rid of the lip the proper way. Buy one of the circular brass cutters with the small triangle/wedge thing in the back, and use it to get rid of the lip.

Ah, and be careful when ridding yourself of that pesky lip- if you do TOO much, the lip turns outwards, and then you can't next the brass.

As for fishtailing, switch to 7/0 fishing weights, or 1/4 steel slingshot ammo (the slingshot ammo if you want darts that can be used with all guns, as 7/0 is too heavy for most guns).

Those two should solve your problems, good luck.

~ompa

Edited by ompa, 27 June 2005 - 02:14 PM.

[cxwq]

I <3 NH members.

[duce]

We <3 you too.

[euphemism]

check my post in this thread to see instructions for my invincible nerf bullets