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Nite Finder Better Stock?

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#1 centralwrestler06

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 02:39 PM

ok so i just got a nite finder and I have no idea what I was doing, but I took out all the air restrictions, and i wrapped tape aropund my plunger and even lubed it up but for some reason,, my friends stock nite finder still shoots the same/better than mine, so I was wondering what else I need to do besides a barrel?

and could someone please tell me howew to make stefans? i just started and i have no idea what a lot of theese ters mean, thanx in advnce
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#2 Nerf Warrior

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 02:47 PM

Use the SEARCH button located at the top right of the screen.
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#3 footemps

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 03:00 PM

Yes, please search.

But to address your problem... You should just leave the oring be and not tape it. If you can find another oring the same size you can double it up and get an even better seal.

In relation to tailo's comment about a better seal by taping... The double oring mod will provide better seal than taping without unneeded resistance made by taping. With the NF, there is no need to tape. Orings tend to seal better in the first place anyway. (That's why we don't see tape on paintball guns or air compressors as moving seals)

Edited by footemps, 12 June 2005 - 02:50 AM.

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#4 Pineapple

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 03:55 PM

Way to help a new member with a fairly legitimate post, guys.

Okay...like footemps said, why did you tape up the plunger? I'm going to assume you have the new EX-3 NiteFinder, which I don't have (only six older ones) so I'm not aware of any modificatons that called for taping up the plunger. Mine utilize the plunger and o-rings just as they are, and all my NFs average 45-50 feet with no bands.

Sounds like the only thing you need (besides removing all that tape) IS a different barrel. Check out Rag's NF mod for barrel installation and materials, or this article, which is the very source of information that helped me immensely way back when, will definitely help you out tons.

I did the search for you, this time.

Finally, go here to learn the basics of Stefan dart making, courtesy of the LGLF (with humor added).

Good luck. Do these and you'll be a happy Nerfer.


-Piney-
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#5 Talio

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 04:35 PM

What you are proabably running into is ammo problems rather then problems with your gun. Unlike the last two posts, taping the plunger can add to the seal. I've not done it on a NF, but I've done it on every Crossbow and LNL I've ever owned. Something to keep in mind though is by doing this, your also increasing the resistance of plunger to tube contact. To counter this, you're going to need to use bands or even better, bungies. If you don't, you'll actually see a decrease in performance.

Now as far as any more assistance, no one is going to be able to help, because you have not given enough information. Are you using the stock barrel? What kind of stock darts are you use?

I'm going to assume you are using the stock barrel and the stock darts that came with it. Removing air restriction and leaving the original barrel is a bad idea. These newer guns are persicely tuned to fire exactly the way they do. That means the barrel length is directly porportional to the power it's putting out. To make that a little more simple, your barrel is too short. Take an AT2k and put a 2 inch barrel on it. Then put a 6 inch barrel on it, and you will understand. When the barrel is to short, the dart is leaving before it hits it's maximum velocity, leaving it to fish tail and drop off prematurely. So, when there is less air pushing the dart out, naturally you will need a shorter barrel. Now that you've increased the air flow, you will need a long one. This is why we do barrel replacements in the first place.

If you do replace it, be careful about your selection. Just because it's availble, doesn't mean it's the best material. Keep in mind, it's more important to select something your foam/darts will like. You may have to bargain online to get the best material. Personally, if I'm using micro's, I feel cpvc works best on NF's and luckly, is one of the most avaible materials you can find. You may find differently. Don't rush any mods.

If you need any help PM or perferably, email me.

Talio.

Edit: Just looked over your post again and noticed that you probably haven't seen the Holy COC.

Behold!

Learn to love it, and it will love you back. Deny it, and you will learn pain, to immeasurable proportions.
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#6 centralwrestler06

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 06:01 PM

well i guess i got one of the older nf's (it doesnt have the ywellow grip so it's not the ex-3 i dont think)but i got a crayole and the dats semm just a lil loose, how well should they fit in the barrel? i can get 1/2 cpvc but i think that may be a lil snug? and how long should i make my barrel?
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#7 Talio

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 06:18 PM

First off, what did I say about the Coc? Come on, I don't want to have to throw my weight around, just read it and follow it. We won't have a problem then.

Now, I think I understand what you're saying, but honestly, it's hard because I'm not sure some of it was english.

The dart should fit pretty snug, but not so snug that it's tearing up your darts. I've found that especially on spring guns, snug is sometimes better. Best way I can figure is you have alot of power from a relatively small amount of air. It's more explosive, like a cork in a champaign bottle. However, with air guns, there is alot of air, with what seems like a little less explosiveness and more steady power flowing through the shot. For that, I like to use a little looser barrel, because I've always seen it shoot more accurately.

The length of the barrel will depend on your darts and power of the gun. What you need to do is make the barrel obviously too long and test it. Fire three shots, then cut it back some. Repeat untill you're getting the results you want. Careful not to get greedy and cut too short, though.

Talio.
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#8 kickass jb

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 09:56 PM

Speaking of barrel length, I remember a thread or article on here that had a formula or something you could use to calculate the length of your barrel based on you plunger tube and barrel width. Searched around here and on NHQ but I guess I was typing in the wrong things because I couldn't find it. I'm trying to find out a optimal length for my NF as well because now that I have a shit load of CPVC, I'm taking out the crayola.
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#9 AirApache

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 10:34 PM

Darts and Barrels, written by Cx. Articles section.

Edited by AirApache, 11 June 2005 - 10:35 PM.

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#10 kickass jb

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 11:32 PM

I know about the forces and cross sections and what not, but I don't know how to apply that to what the best length would be?
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My arsenal:

RF20, Rototrack, 3x AT3K, 4x AT2K,Big Salvo,SS1,SSII,
2x SSPB,SM 1500,Rangshot,2x EaB,2x Mav,2x NF,
eagle eye,2x BBB,2x SM3000, 2x Tek 6, PC

#11 AirApache

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 11:44 PM

There are so many other factors that the idea of that article was for you just to get an idea. Friction and aerodynamics are all part of the end result. I'd just go with what other people suggest. Each gun is unique.
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#12 Talio

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 12:26 AM

Or read seeing as there are instructions in this thread on how to make the perfect lengthed barrel.
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#13 centralwrestler06

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 08:19 AM

well thank you people for your responses, and sorry for not reading the Coc! I ot a hige bungee cord and I have that on my plunger thingy right now which made one hell of a difference, and I have the crayola, so I think i'm going to try and replace the barrel today if I have time. But I was jw, should I try sanding downthe tree pieces of plastic on the inside of the barrel?
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#14 Talio

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 09:51 AM

Ok, again be more careful with your grammar because it's hard to understand you. If you're having real problems with it, type your post in word first.

Talio.
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#15 NerfMonkey

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 10:21 AM

You mean those little ridges in the Crayola? Most say to, and I've heard it helps a little, so I'd say yes. I did, but I never fired my Crayola barreled NF before that, so I don't know how much of a difference it makes.
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#16 centralwrestler06

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 12:48 PM

Ok, sorry. I've never had people be so picky about grammer but I can see where you're coming from. I think i will try to sand down the ridges but I have no idea how! Any Ideas?
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#17 tucker

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 01:37 PM

To sand down those ridges you could use a thin metal file or a dremel carving bit to cut out the ridges then rap some sandpaper around somthing like a chopstick and go in circles until the inside of the barrel was smooth.
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#18 centralwrestler06

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 07:40 PM

So I sanded/dremeld the ridges down to pretty much nothing, but for some reason the darts do go in all the way. Is this normal? and it's a pretty tight fit once i get them in there a little bit... so I was wondering if this is how it's suppose to be. From what i've seen I dont notice any real increse in performance.
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#19 tucker

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 08:30 PM

I don't know why your performance is not increasing but I think when you get rid of the ridges it will keep your darts in better condition.
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#20 centralwrestler06

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Posted 13 June 2005 - 02:44 PM

hmm... well I think i might just oput the stock barrel back on, it was a Lot more accurate... anyone know any places in MN that i could get 1/2 and 4/8 brass?
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#21 Jakethesnake

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Posted 13 June 2005 - 03:14 PM

Hobby shops

edit Ummm 1/2" and 4/8" is the same thing dude

Edited by Jakethesnake, 13 June 2005 - 03:15 PM.

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#22 centralwrestler06

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Posted 13 June 2005 - 10:41 PM

ahhh sorry i ment 5/8, i was just typing too fast again! well what kind of hobby shops? There is a place that sells train stuff close to me and theres another places that has R/C cars and air planes
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#23 tucker

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Posted 13 June 2005 - 10:57 PM

Back in the hobby section of ace hardware there is k&s brass.
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#24 NerfMonkey

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Posted 13 June 2005 - 10:57 PM

I think that hobby shops that sell train stuff are most likely to carry brass. I don't know how it's used in trains, but if the place specializes in trains, try there first.
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#25 mrfishy

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 10:01 AM

Nerf monkey:

Ever hear the copper is a easy conductor for electricity? :(

Anywho, you could try to find Hobby Town U.S.A. It is one heck of a big store and has models of different types of transportion to r.c cars to replacement parts and accecories. :)
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