19 replies to this topic

[SKIZ]

TO who eva can help.

i am currently building the FAR and need some help in the field of materials and advice. One of the problems i am encounterin is that u guys are in Americia and have easy access to all this stuff while i am in Australia having a hard time funding all htis crap. PVC is easy to find but wats CPVC and 1/2" SCH40 PVC. The other three things i need help with are: 1. how do u angle the PVC so well because i try and it turns out kinda screwed up. (wat thickness of PVC do u use)
2. Y use 1" 200 PSI PVC wats wrong with the normal stuff.
3. Can U please do a Plan with writing in it coz i cannot fiqure out how to do things like Plunger,bolt upper/lower reciever.

Thanks in advace to whoeva can help.

PS: i will probally ask for ongoin help.

Feel free to email me instead. blink_waggy@hotmail.com
just put a topic like nerf help so i no its not spam

[Chessler]

Advice for the Future: this isn't LiveJournal, use normal punctuation and spell words as they have to be spelled.

You have applied to the Rules, so you shall follow them:
Code Of Conduct

Welcome to Nerfhaven

Edited by Chessler, 17 April 2005 - 06:15 PM.

[GeneralPrimevil]

1. how do u angle the PVC so well because i try and it turns out kinda screwed up. (wat thickness of PVC do u use)
2. Y use 1" 200 PSI PVC wats wrong with the normal stuff.

Wha?

1.) How did you miter cut PVC? I tried it but it turned out shitty. What was the thickness of the PVC you used?
2.) Why did you use 1" 200 psi (Schedule 21) PVC because there seems not to be anything wrong with the normal SCH40.

Well if I got that right, then:
No.1: Use a miter or compound miter saw. Either electric or hand powered will work, but I prefer hand (cleaner cut) however electric works just fine if you have enough fingers to spare. The wall thickness doesn't matter for me.
No.2: Thin wall PVC has the same outer diameter as the "normal stuff" but has a larger inner diameter. Larger diameter = increased piston head surface area + bigger volume = better ranges. That about sums up what I have to say, so I'll end it with this.

[boltsniper]

TO who eva can help.

i am currently building the FAR and need some help in the field of materials and advice. One of the problems i am encounterin is that u guys are in Americia and have easy access to all this stuff while i am in Australia having a hard time funding all htis crap. PVC is easy to find but wats CPVC and 1/2" SCH40 PVC. The other three things i need help with are: 1. how do u angle the PVC so well because i try and it turns out kinda screwed up. (wat thickness of PVC do u use)
2. Y use 1" 200 PSI PVC wats wrong with the normal stuff.
3. Can U please do a Plan with writing in it coz i cannot fiqure out how to do things like Plunger,bolt upper/lower reciever.

Thanks in advace to whoeva can help.

PS: i will probally ask for ongoin help.

Feel free to email me instead. blink_waggy@hotmail.com
just put a topic like nerf help so i no its not spam

In the enitre rifle there is one piece made from CPVC. It is not an essential component, so if you can`t find any, i`d just omit it.

SCH40 is standard and is just a representation of wall thickness. 1/2" is the size of PVC. It is based off OD and 1/2" PVC is actually quite a bit larger than 1/2".

I use a dremel and freehand the miter cuts then sand them flat with a sanding block. A mitre saw will wok just as well and faster. Jsut remember to cut the same angle on both pieces you are butting together....(ie half the angle desired). If you don`t, they will not line up perfectly.

1/2" PVC couplers will not fit in standard SCH 40 PVC. That is why I use the thin walled stuff.

There is a writeup and plan on this site. It is about as detailed as I could get without writing a damn manuscript. It is not a 100% guide. You will have to use your brain/ improvise in some spots. Besides, what the fun of creating an exact copy from step by step instructions....




Hey GP, how's yours coming? I looked for pics last Thursday and was disappointed....

[NJNerfer]

i was just wondering why you started a whole new thread when there are about 3 other already on this subject...

[The Infinite Shindig]

Guys, you worry about posting solid content and good posts. Let the admins worry about situations like this. That's our job; yours is to be productive.

SKIZ,

They've pretty much said what I wanted to post. Read and abide by our Code of Conduct, and use the search function before you post a new topic. By doing these two simple things, you will have a long and healthy tenure at NerfHaven.

[GeneralPrimevil]

That's why I just tried to make sense of two of his questions. I figured that it wasn't my duty to tell him what to do, so I never tell anyone to correct their writing, only imply it
. I just hope he can build the rifle and make it work.

Boltsniper, my camera sucks. It doesn't take very good detail pictures (for the boltface,etc.), although I do have a pic from last Thursday of the dry fitting of the semi-completed parts. Now I have almost everything to build the rifle. The solenoids that I am using weigh (together, with most of the fittings) 3.5 lbs. I didn't mean for this rifle to be a lightweight. The barrel & handguard (technically one piece) is 5 pounds. The outer body weighs another 5. I lost some weight by using two sets (parallel with a 3-way non-moment) of two 9-volt cells (in series) to power the 12VDC* solenoids (off of a bus) instead of a 12V car battery. The switch is a three-way (open1-closed-open2) momentary that I have a ring soldered to in order to fill the firing tank faster (pull the trigger, push the trigger). Still, though, the electronics weigh a few pounds (majority is from the battery boxes). I'll try to get pics of the electrical schematics up as fast as possible. Ditto the Paint aesthetics, before I knew the solenoids relative dimensions (i.e. what they look like). Unfortunately I had track practice 'til 5 all last week, and have two meets this week with practice until 5 on the non-meet days, plus I am moving to a new house next weekend, so don't expect this to be done until May.

*The solenoids can take almost any DC voltage above 12V. Any lower than 12V, and they overheat.

<EDIT> 9V battery...what a dumbass I am</EDIT>

Edited by GeneralPrimevil, 17 April 2005 - 08:18 PM.

[SKIZ]

Sorry about the "slang" i am just really lazzy. I think i understand most of your help.(THANKS TO WHOEVER DID) But one of the things still having troublw with is understanding the mitre concept. what i mean by angling is that on things such as the shell i need to angle the lip on the 1/2" PVC and also the lip of the coupler. i would put a picture in to show you what i mean but i dont know how to. Once again thanks, sorry and probally need help later.

[GeneralPrimevil]

I know what you're tallking about. I don't really think that it needs to have a false "bottleneck." Perhaps boltsniper could tell us why he did?

[boltsniper]

The chamfering on the shells is very necessary. Without it, the shells would likely catch on eachother, the feed ramp, or the rim of the chamber during feeding. It`s a reliability issue. It may work without it, but the chances of a jam are extremely high.

I used a drem to chamfer the edges of the shell body and collar. ou could easily enough do it by hand with sandpaper.

[SKIZ]

Once again thanks for your help. i was just woundering if anyone could help me though in regaurds to:Upper reciever. i was looking at building it next but am confused on the concept of the modified T-pieces. If someone wouldnt mind can you please write up a "WALKTHROUGH" for constructing such a beast. I really do appriiate all the support i am getting and am glad that you havent told me off. well thanks again.

P.s not as important as the construction of things but if you wouldnt mind could you also tell me how to insert images on the forum pages so next time i need help i can insert a picture out lining the exact problem at hand. One last thing, what do you actually fire and does it have potential to harm someone beacause i have already built another of your rifles witch could knock off a couple pigions but took for ever to reload.

[Oddball]

Really, the upper reciever confuses me too. That's part of the fun of building something to me actually...

You know what I suggest? Looking at the FAR, and how it works. The basic idea for the shells and the ejector, and all the juicy designs like that. Then, just figure out how to make it work out together. That's how modding is as well, I find..

[NJNerfer]

The animated schematic is your best tool for building this gun. Study it and it will pay off.

[SKIZ]

Thanks for all your help so far. i am slowly making progress on the FAR but school and family kinda take priority. so far i have needed help for pretrty much every part. i am about to build the plunger and am woundering were to find the ar15 spring, keeping in mind i live in Australia. if you have no clue were to find one can you tell me the dimensions and force and what not so i can find one similiar, or tell me an equivellent of one on another type of rifle. I was also woundering what this thing is capable of firing. eg:marbles,bb,etc anything to puncture through hard objects. another thing you may also be able to help me with is the upper reciever. in the pictures of the magazine catch( i think thats what its called) you show the modified t-pieces to be straight but in your final product the t-pieces are angled. so my two part question is how/why are they like that.

[SKIZ]

Thanks for all your help so far. i am slowly making progress on the FAR but school and family kinda take priority. so far i have needed help for pretrty much every part. i am about to build the plunger and am woundering were to find the ar15 spring, keeping in mind i live in Australia. if you have no clue were to find one can you tell me the dimensions and force and what not so i can find one similiar, or tell me an equivellent of one on another type of rifle. I was also woundering what this thing is capable of firing. eg:marbles,bb,etc anything to puncture through hard objects. another thing you may also be able to help me with is the upper reciever. in the pictures of the magazine catch( i think thats what its called) you show the modified t-pieces to be straight but in your final product the t-pieces are angled. so my two part question is how/why are they like that.

[SKIZ]

sorry for the double post my internet screwed up and it posted twice. REALLY REALLY SORRY

[Half Newb Half Nerfer]

Its okay dude. But instead of making a 3rd post you could have just edited one of the two you already made. There is a little "Edit" button in each of them.
~Halfling

[i h8 hippies]

Ar 15 spring: Ar 15 spring site
Did you download the plans or are you just looking at the main thing. He has a huge thing of plans, I didn't see them at first. It is one of the links at the top of the write up.

Off Topic:
Boltsniper, just wanna compliment on you on that. That thing is KILLER. I'm going to attempt to make one this summer. If I tried while school is still going on I would get all F's for the rest of the quarter.

[SKIZ]

1) yer i have downloaded the plans and am studying them before i build a part. the main problem i am having is that there is not much writting.

2) i still need someone to tell me how to angle the t-joints propally because i now no why you need them angled and it is actually vital, so that the shells cycle through. do you just cut them and angle them or do you sand them at an angle?

[The Infinite Shindig]

SKIZ,

We really need to talk about the quality of your posts. Here at Haven we pride ourselves with a rather binding Code of Conduct. I would appreciate it if you could do your best to at least capitalize and punctuate correctly. For the most part, you haven't been bad at this, but there is room for improvement. By following those rules and the others mentioned in the Code, you help contribute to Haven's positive image.

Thanks,
Shindig

P.S. Double posting happens. In the future, make note of it in the second post through the edit button and maybe one of the admins will help you out.