Getting A Wildfire Up To Spec.
#1
Posted 12 April 2005 - 10:06 AM
So when I got this I was not surprized to find that it had the same slow leak I remembered, and I have decided to fix it if possible. Opening the gun showed me a few things one that the plastic clamps over the rubber bladder are not sufficient and had developed cracks where they screw together due to fatigue. This is one source of leaks. The other is the over pressure release on the rear bladder clamp. The the places where the tubing attaches to the bladder and trigger valve is another. A final potential place it could be leaking is out the valve itself but there is little that I would be able to do about that.
Any way here is my plan of attack on this problem.
1) Goop all places that hoses attach-done
2) Goop the air release valve. -done
3) Get large hose clamps to use over the plastic ones instead of screwing them together.
4) Glue over and fill in any cracks.-mostly done
5) Spray silicon into as many moving parts as possible.
When finnished I will post my results.
I welcome any advice from anyone who has sucessfully fixed a leaky WF, or anyone with some ideas to help.
Don't forget to eat your meat based vegetable substitute children.
#2
Posted 12 April 2005 - 10:27 PM
#3
Posted 12 April 2005 - 10:50 PM
I always like seeing what people do with older guns.
#4
Posted 13 April 2005 - 01:46 AM
#5
Posted 13 April 2005 - 11:26 AM
#6
Posted 13 April 2005 - 06:03 PM
After pumping it up, I tossed it underwater to locate the leak. I recommend the same procedure to find the leak(s) in question.
Naturally, mine was out of the end tank clamp. So, the fix went a little like this:
1 x 1/2" CPVC Endcap
1 x Hoseclamp
Plumber's Goop
Sharp Knife
The idea was to make the outside of the endcap rough, and then place it into the tank, closed end out. So, I cut deeply into the sides of the endcap with the closed end facing me (forming sharp little barb/flakes of protruding plastic), spread a little Plumber's Goop on the inside of the tank and the outside of the cap, pushed the cap into the tank, and used a hoseclamp.
Replacing the plastic base clamp is also recommended, since that thing's weak as well. Just chop the mating piece (half of the clamp) off the tank tube, deburr it, attach the hoseclamp, and use a little duct tape to ensure the tank doesn't move around too much.
If it's out of the other parts... Well, you'll have to figure out why it leaks. Epoxied components are never cool.
- Death
#7
Posted 17 May 2005 - 01:30 PM
Also because when I bought this gun I never got the black pegs I improvized a substiution with a circle of foam craft sheet, cut to fit inside the two layers of the turret. I cut a big hole in the center and smaller holes for screws and nozzel like portions that stick into the barrels.
The end result is a nice increase in range and velocity and a gun that doesn't leak a bit.
Don't forget to eat your meat based vegetable substitute children.
#8
Posted 17 May 2005 - 05:50 PM
#9
Posted 17 May 2005 - 05:56 PM
#10
Posted 18 May 2005 - 02:32 PM
No, because it doesn't use a tank so much as a rubber bladder. Thus might as well just make the tank work.wouldn't a tank replacement be more effective due to higher pressure tolerence? then couldn't you do more pumps and get better range/power? just wondereing
Don't forget to eat your meat based vegetable substitute children.
#11
Posted 20 May 2005 - 04:26 PM
#12
Posted 21 May 2005 - 04:36 PM
Then goop the leak unless it's coming back out the trigger, then try some silicone lubricant spray.
If the air is coming back out of the pump, you are pretty much S.O.L. Good luck getting it fixed.
Edited by J_cobbers, 21 May 2005 - 04:42 PM.
Don't forget to eat your meat based vegetable substitute children.
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