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Magazine-fed Fast-action Nerf Rifle

Dare I say the Ultimate Nerf Rifle???

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#1 boltsniper

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:21 PM

After about a week of good work days I have finished my latest Nerf rifle. Ass you probably know it is a magazine-fed fast-action spring powered rifle. I had planned on using some extra AR15 parts I had laying around, like a stock and pistol grip. I didn`t end up using these items. The design just wouldn`t allow me too. I also think the gun as a whole looks better with all PVC fabricated parts.

Like my first homemade rifle, this one is composed of almost all PVC. The receivers are again1/1/4” PVC. The barrel is 1/2” PVC and the bolt is 1”, 200psi PVC. 1/2” couplers were used as spacers. Balsa was used to a small extent to create the flat surface necessary. Mainly for the magazine and the mag well. For higher stress flat pieces like the trigger crank, PVC endcaps were used.

Some various configurations:
Standard

Posted Image

Scoped

Posted Image

loser (faux suppressor)

Posted Image

Components

Posted Image

Disassembled

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Posted Image

AR15 Comparison

Posted Image


Specifications:
Barrel Length: 12”
Plunger Travel: 6”
Overall Length: 34”
Caliber: Nerf Micros
Operation: Fast-Action Magazine Fed
Magazine Capacity: 5
ROF: ~50 RPM Accuratly
Range: 70-80 ft



Component Details

Upper Receiver:
The upper receiver cotains the barrel, bolt, and plunger assemblies. It is constructed of 1/1/4” PVC. The magwell was built by fabricating custom pieces out of 1/1/4” T joints. The mag well was fabricated as a separate unit and then bonded to the upper receiver. The feed and ejection ports were then cut and the feed ramp was formed by grinding a ramp into the forward portion of the magwell and upper receiver. The feed ramp is what guides the shell as it is pushed out of the magazine up into the chamber. Slots for the charging handle and action spring rod were cut lastly.

Breach Image


Barrel and Chamber:
The barrel is the simplest part of the rifle, it is just 1/2” PVC. The camber is the rear portion of the barrel that the shell sets in. The chamber needed to be a tight fit around the shell. 1” PVC is close around 1/2" couplers but there is still a substantial gap. In order to create a tighter fit I cut a 1/4" sliver out of a section of 1” PVC and closed the gap to create a piece of PVC with a <1” inner diameter. The shell is now a near perfect fit in this portion of PVC.

Barrel Image
Muzzle Image
Chamber Image

Bolt:
The bolt is quite simply a straight piece of 1” 200psi PVC. The bolt face is a coupler with a section of ½” PVC set in it and is placed in the 1” PVC about1/2” from the end. The bolt face has 2 concentric O-rings on it to create a positive seal against the rear of the shell. A short piece of carbon rod stick out of the right side of the bolt to act as a charging handle. It passes just below the air passage in the bolt face. The action spring rod passes vertically through the center of the bolt. This spring closes the bolt after the plunger is locked to the rear. It is a high displacement fairly linear stiffness spring that is strong to strip a round off the magazine but not a burden to pull back in addition to the main spring.

Bolt Image

Extractor:
The extractor is what engages the rim of the shell and pulls it out of the chamber for ejection. It is made out of a section of 1” PVC and the hook portion is composed of layered ½” coupler sections. It fits in a cut-out portion of the bolt so that the edge of the extractor is about Ό” above the bolt face (the size of the rim on the shells). The extractor is fastened with one wrapping of electrical tape around the bolt. This allows the extractor to flex out over the rim of the shell and also allows for easy changing if it were to break. Extractor breakage is a pretty common problem in real firearms. I anticipate it being a problem as well in this rifle.

Boltface Image
Action Spring Image


Ejector:
I had a few ideas going for an ejector. Originally I had planned to use a passive ejector as in handguns. This meaning there is a piece that is fixed to the frame that would contact the rear of the shell opposite the extractor as the bolt moves rearward to kick the spent shell out. With the need for a plunger tube directly behind the bolt I could not use this type of ejector as it would require cutting a groove in the bolt. I opted for a dynamic (sprung) ejector as in use in most automatic rifles. The ejector is a short piece of 0.2” carbon rod placed opposite the extractor on the bolt face. A whole was drilled on the edge of the boltface about 1/1/2” deep and just wider than the carbon rod. A click pen spring was used for the ejector spring. A groove was cut in the side of the ejector rod and a retaining pin was inserted crossways to hold the ejector in. The ejector is flush with the front rim of the bolt and is depressed by the shell as it is chambered. The shells are heavy so they do not eject far from the rifle, but they do reliably clear it. I may try a strong er spring to see if I can get a more powerful ejection. But I don`t have any problems with it at this point so it “if it ain`t broke don`t fix it”

Ejector Image

Receiver Cover:
The top portion of the rifle serves to cover the action spring and also serve as a platform for both iron sights and optics. A picatinny rail was fabricated out of layered PVC and bonded to the receiver cover. This rail allows the attachment of any optic. The receiver cover is attached with 4 screws.

Receiver Cover Image

Plunger:
The plunger is a piece of 1/2” PVC 7” long. It rides inside the 1” PVC of the bolt and maintains a seal with 2 Orings. A 1/2” cap plugs off the end. A 1/2” coupler sheathed in 1” PVC is at the rear of the plunger. This is where the main spring attaches. A larger washer was cut and fit on the front of this portion of the plunger. This is where the trigger catches the plunger when drawn back. The washer is present to prevent gouging that would take place if it were only PVC.

Plunger Image

Lower Receiver:
The lower receiver is everything from the magwell and back below the upper receiver. It consists of the pistol grip, buttstock, and trigger mechanism. The pistol grip was fabricated from 1” PVC. The trigger sear was forced to be placed very far to the rear of the gun because of the retracting plunger tube (bolt). I had to come up with a mechanism to pull the plunger catch down as the trigger was pulled.

Lower Receiver Image
Lower Receiver Image


Trigger:
I had a few ideas going for a trigger. The one I ended up with uses a crank to convert the horizontal motion into vertical motion. The plunger catch is 1/16” music wire and works very well. The crank sits just ahead of the catch rod and is fastened to the lower receiver. A pushrod connects the trigger to the crank. All pivot joints were inserted with brass to reduce wear and friction that would occur with PVC joints. The trigger is very crisp and smooth. See the video. The rear of the plunger tube is beveled and depresses the catch rod as it is moved rearward.

Trigger Image
Fire Control Group Image
Fire Control Group Image


Videos:
-- Action Cycling
(same as posted before)
-- Trigger Mechansim
-- Loading a Magazine
--Closeup of the breach and action
--Closeup of the mag and action chambering a round slowly
--Closeup of the action making a full cycle slowly
-- Shooting a Full Magazine
-- Shooting Again
(This illustrates the ROF of the rifle. I pause between each shot to reacquire the target. Max ROF would be higher.)


Ranges seem to be around 70-80 feet. Comperable to a good croosbow I guess but with much better ROF and cool factor. Nothing phenomenal but not bad either. I have an Extra power spring on order which should boost range some. The seal the dart makes in the barrel effects the range. The dart seal needs to be very good but not too tight. A dart that does not make a good seal will not leave the barrel. The plunger and barrel are sized together so if air leaks past the dart the plunger will stop before the dart leaves the muzzle.

The rifle feels great when you hold it. It has a good weight and is well balanced. The pull on the stock is just right. I was worried it was going to be too long because it was kind of governed by the bolt, plunger, and main spring. The trigger is positioned just right and the magazine catch is just ahead of the trigger which can be operated by the trigger finger without removing your right hand. The sights mounted on the receiver cover are positioned at the right height to get a good cheek weld on the stock. I am ecstatic with how it turned out. It turned out MUCH better than I had even originally want it to.

I am still working on updating the plans to the current configurations. I will psot those as soon as I finish em up

I have about 300 pictures at most every phase of construction and more videos. If anyone wishes to see more on a specific portion I can post more. I am sure you all will have questions so ask away…..

Edited by boltsniper, 09 April 2005 - 11:51 PM.

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#2 CustomSnake202

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:35 PM

Beautiful Bolt, beautiful. The whole design came out exellent; I love every detail. I especially like the handle and trigger assembly; very smooth and appealing to the eye. And of course, awesome job on that magazine and bolt action. I watched the movie where you fire the gun and pop out the shells and it looked clean as a whistle. Also, I appreciate you taking the time to make a damn good post with a detailed discription, movies, and pictures. This makes me want to make a nice homemade myself. Keep up the good work.
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#3 Talio

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:37 PM

You are a god among men.
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#4 CheeseNerfer

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:37 PM

Wow...
That gun is truly amazing. I like the looks of it even more than your original rifle and can't wait to see a write-up. Could you maybe go into more detail about the ejector works because I don't understand that part. Looks great and I'd be interested in knowing the accuracy. It looks the best with scope and suppressor but does the suppressor decrease range?

You are the man.

Edited by CheeseNerfer, 02 March 2005 - 11:42 PM.

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#5 Evil

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:38 PM

Sweet merciful crap. Have my babies. Please.
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#6 The Infinite Shindig

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:39 PM

That is truly excellent work. I guess we better see how this thing works once and for all. I'll bring my guns down after spring break next week. Then how about me vs you on the drillfield? (Somehow, I think I'll get slaughtered with my single barreled maxshot.)
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#7 JC

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:40 PM

Amazing...I'm shocked. That is incredible. Touch me.
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#8 TOFUburger

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:41 PM

:( It's so beautiful....... Thanks bolt for your great contributions to the nerf society.
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All bow down to BoltSniper, he is my god.

#9 Oroku Saki

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:42 PM

**drops down on the ground, bowing**

All hail the mighty boltsniper!!

You never fail to amaze us with your kickass homemades. This latest project is just beautiful! Great work!
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#10 PissBacon

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:59 PM

I don't think I'd want to be shot at by that.. seriously.
PS: Absolutely Incredible.

Edited by PissBacon, 03 March 2005 - 12:10 AM.

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#11 Warlock

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 12:10 AM

....Somebody give this guy a throne.

That is by far the coolest thing I've seen concerning Nerf. EVER. Jesus christ, man.
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#12 Evil

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 12:20 AM

Bolt, you're the best thing to happen to the community in a very long time. Your contributions will never be forgotten. And your amazing works are one of a kind.

Keep up the good work, we'll be here to pat you on the back bro.
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#13 boltsniper

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 12:22 AM

Sweet merciful crap. Have my babies. Please.

I`ll be selling vials of my semen here shortly.......

Edited by boltsniper, 03 March 2005 - 01:07 AM.

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#14 Evil

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 12:49 AM

Evil-Boltsniper babies? Imagine the clan we could have.
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#15 cxwq

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:02 AM

I`ll be selling viles of my semen here shortly.......

Freudian slip? <g>


Truly a work of art. Thanks for sharing.
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#16 boltsniper

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:08 AM

I`ll be selling viles of my semen here shortly.......

Freudian slip? <g>


Truly a work of art. Thanks for sharing.

So I'm not too good at the spelling...... Can't have it all.

Edited by boltsniper, 03 March 2005 - 01:09 AM.

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#17 notorious oxide

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 02:41 AM

could you go a bit more indepth about the clip and the release for the shells?


looking excelent.
going excelent.
cant wait for another.
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#18 Talio

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 08:23 AM

I don't think I'd want to be shot at by that.. seriously.
PS: Absolutely Incredible.

On the flip side, I'd pay to get shot by that. Man, I'm still in aw.

Talio.
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#19 Half Newb Half Nerfer

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 08:50 AM

Wow. Like, just, wow.
~Halfling
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#20 ShortShit

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 12:26 PM

prettyyyy.
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#21 boltsniper

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:02 PM

could you go a bit more indepth about the clip and the release for the shells?


looking excelent.
going excelent.
cant wait for another.

The magazine works just like any mag in any firearm. At the top of the magazine there are feed lips on either side. These are made of slivers of 1" PVC. You can see them in the video of me loading the mag. I`ll post some detail pics of the magazine later today. The feed lips curve inward enough to prevent the shells from pooping out of the magazine but let the shell sit high enough so that the bolt can catch the rear of a shell, and only a shell, as it moves forward. As the bolt moves forward it pushes the top shell in the mag forward. The feed lips only extend about half the length of the mag. As the bolt continues to move forward the front of the shell will engage the feed ramp just prior to being pushed clear of the feed lips of the magazine. From here the shell is pushed into the chamber.
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#22 boltsniper

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:10 PM

Wow...
That gun is truly amazing. I like the looks of it even more than your original rifle and can't wait to see a write-up. Could you maybe go into more detail about the ejector works because I don't understand that part. Looks great and I'd be interested in knowing the accuracy. It looks the best with scope and suppressor but does the suppressor decrease range?

You are the man.

The suppressor is fake. The barrel insert for it is 3/4" PVC. If you were to add extra length to the barrel the dart would never leave the barrel. The plunger and the barrel are jsut sized to close. I did try the suppressor from the CO2 rfile.... That was exactly what happened. Does look sweet though......

Its pretty damn accurate. About like the CO2 rifle. You can shoot cans over reliably at 30-40 feet. I`ll try and do a video of shooting at some targets.

The ejector is just a spring loaded rod. The carbon rod you can see stick up along the edge of the bolt face is the ejector. It will compress to be flush with the bolt face when a shell is present. When the shell is chambered it is fully compressed and as the bolt is retracted and the tip of the shell clears the ejection port the ejector pushes on the outside edge of the shell and pivots it on the extractor lip..spinning it clear of the rifle...
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#23 Evil

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:12 PM

If it had tits I'd marry it.

And yes I'm going to keep staring at the pictures and coming up with stupid one-liner comments like this. Probably for the next 6-8 weeks.

You've been warned.

Bolt, if I find you on the street you are getting humped into submission by yours truly.
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#24 VACC

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:22 PM

Indeed, it is a wonderous achievement........ attaining matt's lusty affections that is, perhaps now I can let slip my restraining order

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#25 boltsniper

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 04:01 PM

Added a new video

-- Shooting Again

Better lighting. Still low resolution though. You can`t even see the dart leaving the barrel. Its as good as my little digital camera will do though....

Will add more shortly
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