#1
Posted 19 January 2005 - 09:08 PM
It's a design flaw: the plastic that the pin seats into on both halves of the slide is not reinforced well enough to take the strain of cocking the gun over and over. It cracks, bends, and allows the pin to be pulled out of its mounting and bent in the direction of the force applied by the mainspring. Eventually, this will cause the gun to become uncockable, and after that the pin mountings will probably just shear off.
Now, I realize that the Hasbro engineers were in a tight spot here, because they had to make pin mountings that would fit in the narrow track the cocking pin runs in, which is narrow, presumably, to reduce wiggling and let less gunk into the gun. I'm not sure, I didn't design it, but it is a fairly critical flaw.
On my Mav, I've drilled a hole that's the diameter of the pin through the wall of the slide, so that the pin pushes into its original mounting and then through the outer plastic of the slide, resulting in more and inflexible/unlikely-to-crack support. The pin (which I replaced with a longer piece of similar stainless steel rod) now sticks out about an eighth of an inch on either side of the slide, but it doesn't bend anymore.
Thoughts?
#2
Posted 19 January 2005 - 09:58 PM
Edit: grammar.
Edited by Inferno, 19 January 2005 - 09:59 PM.
"Oh...well, did ya save it?"
"Uh-no."
"...You bastard."
-Family Guy
#3
Posted 19 January 2005 - 11:24 PM
"NERFITIZE ME CAPTIAN!!!"
#4
Posted 20 January 2005 - 08:48 AM
~ompa
#5
Posted 20 January 2005 - 11:30 AM
But did you actually expect Nerf to come out with a flawless product? It should be expected. Their main business is to cut costs and make profits. not making perfect weapons to be used by teens and young adults who push the limits of the structural integrity of plastic (although we are greatfully thankful they do consider us a small portion of their demographic)
Sorry now back to the topic :
instead of using rod and epoxy, I wonder if there is a long, thin machine screw out there that could take the place of that. It would be cheaper and less hassle to install. That is unless you can find a place that will let you buy 2 inches of stainless steel rod
#6
Posted 20 January 2005 - 11:58 AM
#7
Posted 20 January 2005 - 01:36 PM
Thought of that, and it's still what I would prefer, but I have none on hand and I'm broke (literally, like $10 overdrafted broke).instead of using rod and epoxy, I wonder if there is a long, thin machine screw out there that could take the place of that.
Aluminum is too weak. An aluminum rod with the same rigidity as the stainless steel pin used would have to be twice as big in diameter. Aluminum is also more expensive than steel. Heck, even plain ol' iron rod will work, and that's cheap as old chips.The same hobby stores that sell brass tubing sell aluminum rods of many sizes that would work fine.
#8
Posted 20 January 2005 - 04:15 PM
~ompa
#9
Posted 20 January 2005 - 04:24 PM
"the56ace,
Your member account at NerfHaven has been temporarily suspended because I don't like you."
-cxwq
If ignorance is bliss, our president must be ecstatic.
#10
Posted 20 January 2005 - 04:39 PM
Edited by Drano, 20 January 2005 - 04:44 PM.
#11
Posted 20 January 2005 - 05:32 PM
#12
Posted 20 January 2005 - 06:05 PM
Edited by MattPaintballer, 20 January 2005 - 06:08 PM.
"the56ace,
Your member account at NerfHaven has been temporarily suspended because I don't like you."
-cxwq
If ignorance is bliss, our president must be ecstatic.
#13
Posted 20 January 2005 - 08:10 PM
PS: okto my razorbeast?
#14
Posted 20 January 2005 - 08:26 PM
#15
Posted 20 January 2005 - 09:08 PM
If you removed the slide, you could do the traditional keyring as on the Lock 'n' Load, or you could use one of those cheap plastic toothbrushes that look like gummy bears.
Without the slide, it's uncockable, and there's nowhere to attach a keyring, because it's a reverse-plunger mechanism.The slide would probabbly just be scrapped. Just like the good old days of the Lock 'n Load
ompa: I've been trying (read: putting parts on top of the gun's shell and howling despondently) to put the guts of another gun inside Mav. I thought of NF parts, but the plunger tube is a bit too large to fit, even with the tracks the stock plunger rides on Dremeled out. A conundrum.
#16
Posted 20 January 2005 - 09:23 PM
~ompa
#17
Posted 21 January 2005 - 09:31 AM
#18
Posted 21 January 2005 - 12:40 PM
~ompa
#19
Posted 21 January 2005 - 03:32 PM
EDIT: range test
Stock Micros*:
25' 7.5"
27'
27' 5"
avg 26' 8"
2" 3/0 Stefans‡:
44' 4"
46' 7.5"
52' 1"
avg 47' 8"
All measurements are from muzzle of gun 5' 5" off floor, aimed flat.
*including skip of approx. 3'
‡including skip of approx. 6'
Edited by okto, 21 January 2005 - 03:47 PM.
#20
Posted 21 January 2005 - 04:26 PM
~ompa
#21
Posted 21 January 2005 - 04:36 PM
3/0 lead shot is slightly heavier than 1/4" steel shot. I'd guess that the 1/4 steel shot would actually be better for most spring pistols, including this one. In my experience, 3/0 starts outperforming 1/4" steel when you get into the 90'+ flat range neighborhood.Argh, could you describe your mod? And does anyone know if 3/0 darts weigh less than 1/4 steel shot?
~ompa
#22
Posted 21 January 2005 - 04:38 PM
~ompa
#23
Posted 21 January 2005 - 04:46 PM
#24
Posted 21 January 2005 - 04:54 PM
~ompa
#25
Posted 21 January 2005 - 05:00 PM
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