6 replies to this topic

[noahback]

I have an evader that i ordered imrs and dummies for that i am going to mod but don't know what to do about a few things.  First it won't rev unless a mag is in it if i take out the button that the mag presses. If i take the button out but not the circuit will it still rev?  Any other small mods i should do to it that only cost a few bucks to nothing.  

(ps.  I don't want this to become a war on imr vs lipo i looked at a nice lipo setup that was around 60$ but none of my friends mod so having that much power is pointless.  Also I know i have to remove thermistor and have the equipment)

[Meaker VI]

First it won't rev unless a mag is in it if i take out the button that the mag presses. If i take the button out but not the circuit will it still rev?

Yes, if you remove the switch (and obviously reconnect/replace the wire) it'll still work. All of the 'locks' that stop the blaster firing are just extra switches - removing all but one will make the blaster work more reliably for someone who knows what they are doing with the blaster (eg: not a kid)
 

(ps.  I don't want this to become a war on imr vs lipo i looked at a nice lipo setup that was around 60$ but none of my friends mod so having that much power is pointless.  Also I know i have to remove thermistor and have the equipment)

It's not about having that much power, it's about safety. An IMR will be overdrawn by a stock motor, it cannot supply the amperage the stock system requires and will risk damage to the cell (shortened life, or in the worst-case: venting super-hot gasses into the blaster while you're using it). Use NIMH cells if you must use cells.

[noahback]

thanks i got an imr with a safety circuit and am going to replace the safety circuit, would have gone lipo but with cage fang revamped and batterry it was around 60$.  if i does happen to break it I woukd just go lipo by the time i had to rewire.

Edited by noahback, 19 October 2018 - 09:44 AM.

[Meaker VI]

thanks i got an imr with a safety circuit and am going to replace the safety circuit, would have gone lipo but with cage fang revamped and batterry it was around 60$.  if i do happen to break it I woukd just go lipo by the time i had to rewire.

 

... You do know that you can run the stock motors/wheels/cage on a lipo, yes? You don't need to upgrade the motors, rewiring is a good idea but that's like $6-12 in materials. Then use the stock system until it burns up or you upgrade. Just the swapping motors while it's open isn't a bad idea, and isn't terribly expensive either ($6-30 depending on motor choice). Cage and wheels add up quick ($26 or so minimum), but you can keep the stock cage and wheels until you get more $$ to upgrade; just don't plan to swap aftermarket wheels once they are installed (do cage & wheels at the same time).

 

Buying into the IMR system to buy into LiPo later is throwing money away on the IMR's, and last I checked, IMR battery setups are only 20-40% less than Lipo setups.

[Dr-Glaucous]

If you want to do a simple modification without breaking the bank, IMRs are a possibility (but Meaker is right, be careful not to overdraw the batteries). There are several other things you could easily do to increase the performance of your blaster without spending extra cash. For starters, you could remove all the unnecessary safety switches that hinder your blaster from working when conditions are anything but perfect, and, if you are a little bit more skilled (soldering is most likely required), you could remove the safety resistors from the motors to increase their performance without swapping them for new ones. If you really want to do some serious modding, though, the next step will be bigger motors and a LiPo battery (I suggest starting with 2S, as it gives kick, but isn't as dangerous as bigger batteries).

[noahback]

How many fps will taking out the thermistor give me?

[Meaker VI]

How many fps will taking out the thermistor give me?

 

A few, depending on charge, but at greater risk of blowing up the blaster/batteries.