9 replies to this topic

[Hexpress]

Excuse me for my lack of experience (first post ooooooooo), but what is one of the most universally inexpensive and low-skill mods to get a blaster that performs at SuperStock velocities? I want to get involved in higher-level Nerf wars, but seeing as I'm in a very densely populated area of brooklyn with little access to machining hardware, it's a little bit hard for me to, say, even build a brassed firestrike. 

Note that this is involving cost of both blaster and modifications as I just lost the entirety of my previous arsenal when moving here (R.I.P stampede, hammershot, sledgefire, longstrike, barricade, maverick, desolator, and diatron. you will be greatly missed).

[CaptainSlug]

There is a rather active Nerf group in NYC.

[Meaker VI]

A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.

Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.

It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.

If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.

[Elithenerficorn]

Go with a springer of some sort.

Edited by Elithenerficorn, 05 April 2018 - 10:43 AM.

[Hexpress]

Alrighty guys, thanks for the advice. Probably gonna pick up a Kronos or Helios and find some sorta replacement spring for it!

[Elithenerficorn]

If you want to fire darts, get a dual-strike, with some basic mods and hole plugging, this thing can fire multiple kinds of ammo and can fire singled elite rather well. Take a look at captain xavier’s dualstrike mod. He does a pretty good job of it, and best part is... no dremmelling or shell cutting required

[Nerfeed]

Springer mods are cheap and quite easy to do. Have you started any mods?

[Lunas]

A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.

Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.

It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.

If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.

I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.

 

My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.

Edited by Lunas, 14 May 2018 - 02:43 PM.

[Meaker VI]

I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.

 

My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.

 

14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.

 

A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.

 

Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.

[Lunas]

 

14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.

 

A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.

 

Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.

im a bit late on my reply but...

 

when I rewired to remove locks i had enough wire in the stock wiring to double up and omit the locks bigger NEW wire is better but worked in a pinch. As for how much power li-mn can provide... 6.5 A and 9.8amp in a burst vs the 3A burst the stock motors pull...you need 2 that is 14 dollars it used to be A LOT easier at the time of my post to buy these batteries. But still 26650 which fit in a rapidstrike tray with modification and a spacer will deliver 30A constant... Now as for the mod to use 26650 in a rapidstrike two balls of aluminum foil on the springs to space forward the 26650 and you are good. 7.4v is not enough of a over volt from the 6v it is stock that the gun is not very functional. From there you can get into more in depth mods but 10$ for a pair of IMR batteries and .20 cents of foil get you started.

Edited by Lunas, 10 December 2020 - 06:01 PM.