Jump to content


Photo

20v Power Tool Battery Blaster Adapter

flywheels batteries charger

9 replies to this topic

#1 Meaker VI

Meaker VI

    Member

  • Contributors
  • 1,050 posts
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/MeakerVI on Reddit

Posted 15 January 2018 - 07:17 PM

EDIT: I'm keeping the rest of this here for posterity only; DO NOT DO this mod! At least not with 20v packs and/or without substantially more knowledge on electronics and battery technology than I possess. I've tried the packs on a startlingly low powered blaster (stock motor Barricade) and burned the battery out so that it shows a temperature fault and will not charge.

 

Spoiler

Edited by Meaker VI, 05 June 2018 - 11:28 PM.

  • 0

#2 TantumBull

TantumBull

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,925 posts
  • Location:Seattle, WA
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/LukeKoboJobo on Reddit

Posted 23 January 2018 - 02:16 AM

As someone just now getting into flywheels, I like this a lot. Especially since I need a new drill...

 

Maybe I missed it, but do you know what the capacity is on the specific light battery you linked? I followed the linked and didn't see an mAh rating, though I could of missed it. All I saw was that it lasted 14 hours per charge but can't infer anything without knowing the current draw.

 

 

 

This also caused me to realize it might be possible to wire up a split pigtail to several blasters on my person and keep the pack on my belt

 

That would be amazing. Please do this. The HPA of electric blasters.


  • 0

#3 snakerbot

snakerbot

    Maker of Things

  • Members
  • 269 posts
  • Location:Houston, TX
  • State:Texas
  • Country:United States
  • snakerbot on Youtube

Posted 23 January 2018 - 08:56 AM

Wait, so how is 20V roughly 3S? 3S is 11.1V nominal.


  • 0

#4 Lucian

Lucian

    Member

  • Members
  • 445 posts
  • Location:Mansfield, CT, 06268
  • Country:United States
  • u/lucian151 on Reddit

Posted 23 January 2018 - 11:01 AM

More food for thought - it'd be really cool to start seeing people re-grip their blasters with drill handles. That way you wouldn't need fancy battery connectors and you could hot swap batteries just as quickly as you can change a mag.


  • 0

Contact me for design consultation relating to 3D Printing, CNC Machining, and Laser Cutting. I am always happy to collaborate on viable Open Source projects and/or business ventures. 


#5 Ryderbike1

Ryderbike1

    Member

  • Members
  • 13 posts
  • Location:Portland/Astoria
  • State:Oregon
  • Country:United States

Posted 23 January 2018 - 11:27 AM

Wow thats really unique. I have several old Ryobi power tools that could be used for this. Personally I dont like exposed wires on my blasters so what are your thoughts on using one of these pannels and some shrink wrap on the wires to make it look better? Not a huge improvement but it would probably give it a more finished look.

http://www.ebay.co.u...r-/261802682439
  • 0

#6 Meaker VI

Meaker VI

    Member

  • Contributors
  • 1,050 posts
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/MeakerVI on Reddit

Posted 23 January 2018 - 01:01 PM

Maybe I missed it, but do you know what the capacity is on the specific light battery you linked? I followed the linked and didn't see an mAh rating, though I could of missed it. All I saw was that it lasted 14 hours per charge but can't infer anything without knowing the current draw.


1.5 Ah, there is a 3 Ah battery available for my set. These work for any other Bauer system tool too, not just the flashlight.
 

 

This also caused me to realize it might be possible to wire up a split pigtail to several blasters on my person and keep the pack on my belt

That would be amazing. Please do this. The HPA of electric blasters.

 

 
Once I have blasters that would require me to carry multiple batteries, I probably will. Currently, it's the one (nice) strayvan build. My thoughts for this setup are mostly for if the Mk13 pans out or if I can build a nice sidearm (something like a barriade w/swappable turrets would be my ideal). I might also do it if I don't like the battery on the blaster.
 

Wait, so how is 20V roughly 3S? 3S is 11.1V nominal.

 
It's not. It's ~5s. So far it hasn't seemed to matter; time will tell. I'm using in on my 3s setup because that's what I have and that should be more robust to handle the extra current than a 2s setup would be. Not that I've heard of a super-stock 2s rig burning out on 3s though, so maybe it'd be fine.
 

More food for thought - it'd be really cool to start seeing people re-grip their blasters with drill handles. That way you wouldn't need fancy battery connectors and you could hot swap batteries just as quickly as you can change a mag.

 
 I've seen exactly that. I didn't here for a few reasons. First, it'd require me to scrounge/buy a drill (or another LED light; these things would be so easy to integrate. It's begging to go right where the battery door is on the rayvan), which in my case is only ~$10. Second, a 10-pack of XT60 pairs is also ~$10 and now I can just swap the one pack to any number of XT60'd blasters. Third, I didn't want to spend the time integrating again on my already nicely finished integration. I might consider doing it to a demolisher I've got lying around waiting to be worked on though, if I want a more standalone setup.
 

Wow thats really unique. I have several old Ryobi power tools that could be used for this. Personally I dont like exposed wires on my blasters so what are your thoughts on using one of these pannels and some shrink wrap on the wires to make it look better? Not a huge improvement but it would probably give it a more finished look.

http://www.ebay.co.u...r-/261802682439

That's a great idea, I hadn't seen those. For a blaster designed to work with an external battery, it's a good solution. My strayvan also works off of any battery that can sit in the old rayvan magwell though, so it'd be something of a hassle to set up an external connection. I'm thinking I might just find a better way to route the cables or cut an opening or something for this blaster, but I might use something like that for a future project.

 

I've tried shrinking the wires, they end up inflexible. If you know of a product to sheath the wires while keeping them flexible that could also take shock-load off of them, I'd like to know about it for making an umbilical.


  • 0

#7 meow121325

meow121325

    Member

  • Members
  • 105 posts
  • Location:cedar falls iowa 50613
  • State:Iowa
  • Country:United States
  • u/meow121325 on Reddit
  • meow121325 on Youtube

Posted 23 January 2018 - 01:10 PM

this is interesting


  • 0

#8 Meaker VI

Meaker VI

    Member

  • Contributors
  • 1,050 posts
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/MeakerVI on Reddit

Posted 05 June 2018 - 11:23 PM

Bumping for significant discovery:

 

DO NOT USE 20V LIION PACKS.

 

For some reason I have no determined yet, the packs keep dying trying to run my NERF setups. I've got a rewired Barricade that just killed one. A BARRICADE! No idea why or what is going on, but every pack I've attempted to run the blasters off of has eventually shown a temperature fault and failed to charge. At first, I thought it was a mk13 problem, since that thing is sketchy for other reasons, but the Barricade tripping it made me rethink the approach.


  • 0

#9 Draconis

Draconis

    I am not Lord Draconical

  • Members
  • 2,712 posts
  • NerfHaven Subscription Supporter
  • Location:Salem, Oregon
  • State:Oregon
  • Country:United States
  • u/Parabolictoys on Reddit

Posted 08 June 2018 - 06:32 PM

Bumping for significant discovery:

 

DO NOT USE 20V LIION PACKS.

 

For some reason I have no determined yet, the packs keep dying trying to run my NERF setups. I've got a rewired Barricade that just killed one. A BARRICADE! No idea why or what is going on, but every pack I've attempted to run the blasters off of has eventually shown a temperature fault and failed to charge. At first, I thought it was a mk13 problem, since that thing is sketchy for other reasons, but the Barricade tripping it made me rethink the approach.

 

I suspect that the issue may be the protection hardware in these cheap packs.  If the current drawn exceeds whatever the hardware is built for, it may damage something permanently, like a thermofuse.  We have that happen a lot with some fan speed control transistors, which I can then repair by just replacing the thermal fuse.  If you can exchange them, I would.  If you can't, I would open them up and look at the circuit inside.


  • 0
[15:51] <+Noodle> titties
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?

#10 Meaker VI

Meaker VI

    Member

  • Contributors
  • 1,050 posts
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/MeakerVI on Reddit

Posted 09 June 2018 - 12:09 AM

Ive burned 3 up and exchanged 2 of them. Im not sure I want to risk being blacklisted so Im holding onto the 3rd for now, it is probably something like that that would be easy to fix but I have a couple spares for actual working ATM and this one still has a good charge.
  • 0



Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: flywheels, batteries, charger

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users