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Verdict on the Worker aluminium FWC kit?


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#1 ComradeSch

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 11:37 PM

http://www.lightake....tml?sku=2257156Just so we're aware of what we're talking about, this kit here, motors, wiring, cage, flywheels and all.

 

I looked on YouTube for reviews but all I got was fitting guides (which I don't need). What I was looking for was data on how well this setup preforms on average. Do you lose out on FPS that you would have gotten with normal flywheels and a normal cage on similar motors? Or is this particular kit worth it?

I'm asking because I intend to make an LMG Vulcan and use the Vulcan like a Rapidstrike pusher for belts and the main "beating heart" of this Vulcan (IE the source of all its actual power) is going to be this setup on 22.2V using 6x 14500 Trustfires and 2x dummy batteries.


Edited by ComradeSch, 19 December 2017 - 11:43 PM.

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#2 Meaker VI

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 12:26 AM

IMO, don't waste your money and instead get this known-good setup for the same cost:

 

Artifact Wheels: $14.25

OFP Cage (42-3 mm): $12

MTB Rhino (2x): $10

 

And you also get a

Switch: $5.50

 

Total looks like $41.75 + Shipping from Portland, OR

 

Then also get:

Wire: $4

A real battery + charger: $36

And an XT-60 Connector: $1.25

 

For another $41.25, bringing the grand total to $83.00 + Shipping. Alternatively, use your trustfires and burn your blaster and/or house down, spending the $44 again on the kit + whatever on batteries and not even touching replacing your blaster or house.

 

Optionally, replace the battery + charger for a 3S LiPo + charger, but OOD doesn't sell LiPo chargers. Be aware, the motors I've linked aren't ideal for the battery; but OOD carries 2S motors and 3S batteries (and better motors, and etc.etc.).


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#3 ComradeSch

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 12:31 AM

IMO, don't waste your money and instead get this known-good setup for the same cost:

 

Artifact Wheels: $14.25

OFP Cage (42-3 mm): $12

MTB Rhino (2x): $10

 

And you also get a

Switch: $5.50

 

Total looks like $41.75 + Shipping from Portland, OR

 

Then also get:

Wire: $4

A real battery + charger: $36

And an XT-60 Connector: $1.25

 

For another $41.25, bringing the grand total to $83.00 + Shipping. Alternatively, use your trustfires and burn your blaster and/or house down, spending the $44 again on the kit + whatever on batteries and not even touching replacing your blaster or house.

 

Optionally, replace the battery + charger for a 3S LiPo + charger, but OOD doesn't sell LiPo chargers. Be aware, the motors I've linked aren't ideal for the battery; but OOD carries 2S motors and 3S batteries (and better motors, and etc.etc.).

I was looking for actual figures on this particular setup I was mentioning, not an entirely different setup. And I don't know what kind of banana peels you've been smoking, since I've been running Trustfires in all of my builds for a LONG time without a single issue involving heat or catching fire.


Edited by ComradeSch, 20 December 2017 - 12:31 AM.

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#4 Meaker VI

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 12:57 AM

I was looking for actual figures on this particular setup I was mentioning, not an entirely different setup. And I don't know what kind of banana peels you've been smoking, since I've been running Trustfires in all of my builds for a LONG time without a single issue involving heat or catching fire.

 
I've not heard of anyone using the worker motor setups, so if you want actual figures take the setup I gave you which is well-documented and includes a switch. Or make another one for +/- the same cost with known-good parts and not mystery box stuff.
 

And I don't know what kind of banana peels you've been smoking, since I've been running Trustfires in all of my builds for a LONG time without a single issue involving heat or catching fire.

I'll just leave this here. If I cared to spend another few minutes looking, I could get posts from any other credible flywheel-proponent on how *terrible* trustfires (and indeed, anyfires) are for our purposes.

 

Your successful use of them does not make them the correct choice, and does not stop them being a potential hazard.


Edited by Meaker VI, 20 December 2017 - 12:58 AM.

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#5 ComradeSch

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 01:44 AM

 
I've not heard of anyone using the worker motor setups, so if you want actual figures take the setup I gave you which is well-documented and includes a switch. Or make another one for +/- the same cost with known-good parts and not mystery box stuff.
 

I'll just leave this here. If I cared to spend another few minutes looking, I could get posts from any other credible flywheel-proponent on how *terrible* trustfires (and indeed, anyfires) are for our purposes.

 

Your successful use of them does not make them the correct choice, and does not stop them being a potential hazard.

I find it funny that you consider Trustfires a potential hazard while attempting to sell devices that are effectively bombs waiting to happen if the outer casing (which is soft and easy to damage and even needs fireproof bags to safely charge) is in any way compromised. Sure, they produce loads of current and have less sag. But they don't have thick steel walls protecting the insides. And I've run Trustfires out of power constantly revving before they even got hot enough to be uncomfortable to grab.


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#6 Meaker VI

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 10:18 AM

I find it funny that you consider Trustfires a potential hazard while attempting to sell devices that are effectively bombs waiting to happen if the outer casing (which is soft and easy to damage and even needs fireproof bags to safely charge) is in any way compromised. Sure, they produce loads of current and have less sag. But they don't have thick steel walls protecting the insides. And I've run Trustfires out of power constantly revving before they even got hot enough to be uncomfortable to grab.


I believe I *recommended* you buy a NiMH, which is about as safe as a battery can get. I *suggested* you look info LiPo. Trustfires fall between the two, being Lion and likely lacking the protection in a dedicated lion pack (drill packs).

You can *also* get (or make) hard-case battery packs if thats your concern.
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#7 Ryderbike1

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 04:19 AM

This is an interesting argument going on but it is entirely off topic. We somehow went from whether or not a flywheel cage performs well to who is going to burn there house down first. Agree to disagree you guys. Both Trustfires and full lipo packs have pros and cons sitting here arguing about it is not going to change that fact.

 

Anyway back to the main topic. I have never seen or heard of that cage before now but it looks intriguing. It's a bit pricey but the rarity of any good aluminum cages makes it interesting. I personally wouldn't sink the money into it because I have too many other projects going on right now that need the cash  :P. Keep us informed if you do end up buying it because I would love to see the results.


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#8 Meaker VI

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 04:52 PM

Looking at it again, I will correct myself- it does appear to include wire & switches and is basically a full kit.

 

Anyway back to the main topic. I have never seen or heard of that cage before now but it looks intriguing. It's a bit pricey but the rarity of any good aluminum cages makes it interesting. I personally wouldn't sink the money into it because I have too many other projects going on right now that need the cash  :P. Keep us informed if you do end up buying it because I would love to see the results.

 

It costs roughly double what just the aluminum cage costs. If the aluminum cage is important, this is a fair deal (unless it's canted? Hard to figure out from the description), but the motors are of unknown quality and personally I wouldn't use those wheels - I'd rather use this kit, but smooth is better still. An OFP printed cage is arguably better in SS now anyway with all the options it can provide; and since it's cheaper going that route the same budget affords you real motors with real specs as I laid out at the top.


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#9 Ryderbike1

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 03:58 AM

As far as I can tell the kits are nearly identical. Same price, motors, wire, and switch. The cages are different colors but I dont think that really matters. The main difference though appears to be that the flywheels are a different design. One has a diamond pattern and the other is concave. Im not sure if one is superior to the other or not. A side by side comparison would be cool. I would imagine the concave one would get more grip on the darts.
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