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Longshot Modding (noobie here)


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#1 Concat

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 11:04 AM

Hi everyone,

 

I recently picked up two longshots for 50 bucks total, and I plan to mod them for my sons' bday.  I have a stage 1 & 2 kit coming from OMW, but I was hoping for some guidance on a couple mods I saw regarding elite dart jam fix.

 

There's this one:  http://nerfhaven.com...s-in-longshots/

And this one:  http://oznerf.forumo...icial-version-1

 

Both seem to tackle the problem with different methods, so I'm at a loss as to which one I should implement.  Looks like the second method will push the dart in further, which might improve performance overall...  but I don't know.  The first method, I assume, relieves a lot of the resistance so the dart tooth is pushing against the dart less, allowing it to drop down without catching the end of the dart.

 

Am I right on my assumptions?

 

If anyone has suggestions for other mods, I'm all ears.  A lot of the guides here have broken images from photobucket :(


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#2 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 06:10 PM

To my personal experience, all the newer versions of the longshot (Zombie and "elite") are compatible with Nerf elite darts. The jams mainly occur if you try to shove the bolt forward too quickly; going slower will prevent jams. If you still want to fix the dart "issue", the first link(Nerfhaven) seems to be easier (Although you may loose some feet of range).

 

For the OMW kits, the stage 2 is great. I have it installed it in my LS with an 8kg spring combo and after running it in two wars, no signs of wear and tear. However, you may want to two-hand prime or use a pump grip to prevent damage on the boltsled (Although it's polycarbonate, dual priming is better for longevity). 

 

Somewhat off topic, but where did you find two longshots in Alberta for $50?

 

I hope your son enjoys his B Day!


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#3 Concat

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 07:20 PM

Thanks for the reply.

The longshots are the older blue versions. I think it says copyright 2006 on it, which is an odd thing to remember... ha.

I tested them with elites, and they were jamming. Thats why I was looking into the issue. I have like 300 accufakes coming in the mail, so maybe those wont be an issue. I'll probably just put the omw kits and test before I commit to modifying to fix the dart tooth issue.

As for where I got them - kijiji. A mom was selling her son's, and as soon as I said Id buy it, her other son wanted to sell his too. It was meant to be because the bday is a actually for my twin boys.

By the way... should I remove the AR? Even with the OMW kits? Seems common to pad the plunger when doing that. Is that also the case with the LS?
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#4 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 10:32 PM

Yeah, the older blue ones tend to jam with elites no matter what... Pity. Due to that, I'd recommend the first link in where you drill some plastic out of the barrel.

Longshots don't tend to jam with accustrikes that often, but it will happen due to the nature of the dart head.

Yes with the OMW kits, I highly recommend AR removal. Otherwise, the fps gains are slim (25fps vs 50). With that said, PAD THE PLUNGER. I know the Orange Mod Works plunger head is an extremely tough polycarbonate, but the plunger tube is still stock. I just epoxied on a rubber washer that I got from a hardware store, padding should be rubber, not foam.
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"The only thing that sucks about Nerf modification is the anxiety that something will break... That's why we reinforce a whole lot!" -Me

#5 Concat

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 09:05 AM

And here I was going to follow another guide's directions for foam padding.  This is why I came for advice.  Thanks bud.

I'll post an update with some pics.  I just finished a repaint of one of their firestrikes.  I also cut off the terrible "laser" and removed the AR.  The AR removal actually increased performance for it quite a bit.  This was more or less a trial run for the longshots.  I've never modded a nerf gun before.


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#6 AtraUnam

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:38 PM

Other people have mentioned that the older blue ones tend to jam elites, for some reason this is not the case with the old yellow ones.


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#7 Maniacal Coyote

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:00 PM

Well, my janky approach is this: Open it up, remove the air restrictor, and cram half of a [k26] in; since you've got two, you'll want a full [k26]. (Spring, not order)

 

It might also be a good idea to look into a sturdier catch plate.


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#8 Concat

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 09:29 PM

So I've put stage 1 and 2 in one of the Longshots, and removed the AR.

I put a circle of furniture padding on the end of the plunger, and its interfering when loading a dart. Basically, the sled goes back, and the plunger catches sooner (by the thickness of the pad). At this position I cannot load or take out a magazine (all locks gone).

I have to push the sled back an extra bit, which is quite awkward to hold while also fumbling with a mag. Too much for a kid to do for sure.

The furniture pad is not super thick, but I guess tolerances are tight so how the heck is everyone else using padded plungers?

Thanks... appreciate insights on this. Shoots well otherwise. Took one on the bare back as a tester. It stung. :)


Oh! I didnt put the dart checker thing back. Whats that for...?
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#9 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:40 PM

Unfortunately the tolerances for plunger padding are low. My rubber padding in my LS is around 1mm thick. If it's any thinker, the mag problem can occur like you said.


What dart checker? Are you talking about the darttooth? Or something else?
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#10 Concat

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 08:31 PM

1mm eh... ok thats a lot lower profile than I thought was needed. Time to crack it back open I guess.

I rambled a bit at the ens of my last post, but dart checker = primer indicator I guess. Read up on it after and it couldnt be causing any issues.

Side note, here are my finished firestrikes. I "minimized" them and took out the ARs. More of a test run to get my feet wet. I tell you, and oscillating multi tool works great for cutting plastic. And taping it for paint was hard... definitely not perfect, but alright.

70W7sR2.jpg
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#11 Concat

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 09:21 AM

Well even without the furniture pad I can't put a clip in.  I think the OMW plunger rod is actually slightly longer than stock...  perhaps because the kit is for the Zombie Longshot?

 

Looks like I will have to trim some of the breech to make it all work.


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#12 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 04:42 PM

Concat, on 28 Sept 2017 - 2:21 PM, said:

Well even without the furniture pad I can't put a clip in.  I think the OMW plunger rod is actually slightly longer than stock...  perhaps because the kit is for the Zombie Longshot?
 
Looks like I will have to trim some of the breech to make it all work.

It should fit in with everything... Did you screw the plunger rod all the way in? The head and rod are supposed to have a really tight connection, so you probably didn't screw it in all the way. All of the LS variants have the exact same internals, and the kits are compatible with all versions.
Hopefully that helps.

Edit: If it's not that then try rotating the plunger rod so that it engages the catch in a different way.

Edited by Bubba Longshot, 28 September 2017 - 04:44 PM.

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"The only thing that sucks about Nerf modification is the anxiety that something will break... That's why we reinforce a whole lot!" -Me


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