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Rapid Red Writeup: Shell Integration, LEDs & Modification

rapid red shell integration erictzh eric tzh led nerf mod rebelle meishel 2.0 modification

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#1 EricTzH



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  • Location:Carbondale, Illinois
  • State:Illinois
  • Country:United States

Posted 31 August 2017 - 02:26 PM

Before reading this,
I highly suggest to Watch The Timelapse Video first:
Project Overview:
This writeup is about my rapid red modification and shell integration. I will be using this blaster mainly for CQB and HvZ games. I choose Rapid Red is because they are the most affordable option to try new stuffs, compared to many other flywheel blaster after the discontinued of Stryfe. 
- For HvZ and CQB Games
- Operatable by a single hand (as another hand will be holding a foam sword) 
-Lights up my way at night (while eye friendly) 
- Medieval Classical Feel (Because I love it!) 
- LED design that looks cool
- Solve small handle problem 
Things I've Done
- DIY Stock made by lightweight material 
-  Shell Integration : Adding new Handle from Distruptor's (the "New Strongarm" ), Distruptor's Priming Slide for Stabilizing Stock. 
- Internal Modification : Meishel 2.0 Motor
- Paintjob 
- Others: Quick Mag Releases, LED wiring 
General Mod Material
-Epoxy Putty: Wood and WaterWeld
-Epoxy Gel
-DAP contact cement 
-Semi Transparent Plastic Folder
-LEDs Diode and Resistor 
- UPC pipe
Wiring Materials:
-Meishel 2.0 Motor
-Submianiture microswitch
-18 Gauge Silicon Wire
-950mAH Li Po (Not recommended for Stryfe, for Stryfe use this for higher amperage : 1300 mAH Li Po) 
-Dremel Rotary Tool and Attachments: Grinder, Sanding, Enforced Cutting Wheel
-Hack Saw
-Soldering Iron and Solder
-Wire Striper and Wire Cutter
-Hot glue gun and Hot glue sticks 
Paintjob Material
-V&F Black Automotive Base Coat
-Aged Copper Spray Paint
-Cheap Acrylic Paint from Walmart: Black White Red Blue Yellow 
-Antique Gold Acrylic Paint 
-Wheel Clear Coat
Step 1: Disassembly 
All parts from Rapid Red are disassembled. 
Remove some internal parts in Distruptor that is close to the Handle, Take out the Priming Slide. 
Step 2: Shell Cut
Cut off the Rapid Red Handle, then throw it away. 
Cut off Distruptor Handle
Some trimming will be needed to allign the new handle to the rapid red. 
Cut off the "back half" of the Priming Slide, This will be used to hold the DIY stock. 
Step 3: Combining Shell
Drill a hole at the back part of the blaster. 
I use contact cement to temporarily hold the handle before apply epoxy putty.
Applying Epoxy Putty on Handle and the Priming Slide to Rapid Red Body
Using Epoxy Gel as internal reinforcement (But then I realised SmoothCast is a way more cheaper option)
Step 4: DIY Stock 
Cut out your choice of pipe(I use UPC not PVC here), apply epoxy putty to stick them to the blaster.
I choose a  rubber flat vacuum wand I thrifted from Goodwill, because it is lighter than plastic and wood.
Rubber vacuum wand flex a lot, so applying epoxy putty directly wouldn't works. I nailed a small piece of wood on it ( I get this wood for free, you can get some small wood in Walmart DIY Crafting area )
Step 5: LED Holes
Use a sharpie to mark out places that I want to cut a hole
Use Dremel drilling attachment to drill the holes
Sand the cutted holes so it looks smooth
We need something to dilute the LED lights. Cut off some semi-transparent plastic sheet(I use semi-transparent plastic folder), hot glue them to those holes.
Step 6: Paint Job 
Sand the body of Rapid Red
Base coat using Automotive Vinyl and Fabric Black
Glue Gun Drawing, set the temperature to High, and draw the pattern.
Base coat again on Hot Glue patterns, using Automotive Vinyl and Fabric Black as well
Aged Copper Spray Paint
Adding black Acrylic Paint(mixed with around 1-1 water)for blackish shadow effect
Use a Dry brush/ Sponge, rub some dry gold paint on it.
Paint a layer of Black Acrylic Paint at the bottom half.
After the black paint dries, mix red paint with a little bit of water, brush on the black surface, rub it with your finger/fabric. To make it bloooodyyy cool.
Step 7: Internal Wiring and Necessary Shell Cut
I use Meishel 2.0 motor, subminiature switch and 18 gauge wire.
Some parts are needed to be grind off (Dremel grinning atachment) in order to fit the Li Po
Test motor spinning direction
Step 8: LEDs and Magazine Fit
Before closing the shell, I tried a couple times of reopening the whole thing, readjusting and do extra shell trimming, so that it fits the magazine, rev trigger and able to be closed .



Edited by EricTzH, 01 September 2017 - 01:31 AM.

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