6 replies to this topic

[EricTzH]

I'm planning to rewire or even change the motor(if the time allow me to do so) of my rapid red. I'm seeking a way to get it finish before Jun 22, so that I can use it in the End War HvZ.

1. May I know is there any other motors i can get ASAP (ideally max of 1 week shipping)?

2. Which motor works on Rapid red besides of Meishel's Motor? Is Stryfe motor like 3s Rhino Fire going to work?

3. What battery or wire shall I use IF I'm just rewire, and NOT CHANGING the motor? is those wire and battery in Stryfe rewiring guide applicable on Rapid Red?

4. Im searching for more rapid red rewiring n internal modification guide. Is there any link you know ?
(besides of Meishel's.) (I could not find any other on Google)

[jwasko]

1. Probably Rhinos (http://www.containme...t-category/mtb/) or Meishel2.0 (https://foamblastshop.com/product-category/motors/) motors. Both I guess ship from within the US. You could maybe try PMing Meishel here or contact her on her website (Foamblast) and see if she can ship faster.

 

2. Any motor that fits a Stryfe (or Rapidstrike) will fit in a Rapid Red. 130-size motors like Rhinos (not "Rhino Fire") or Meishel 2.0s will fit without having to modify the shell at all. 180-size motors will require you to cut holes in the shell, but technically still "fit."

 

3. You can just use the same wire as if you were replacing the motors; it certainly won't hurt. Battery depends on what you are comfortable with. Do you know how to handle a LiPo? Do you have a LiPo charger (which one)? What stryfe guide are you talking about specifically?

 

4. Why do you need another guide besides Meishel's? It seemed pretty comprehensive.

Edited by jwasko, 29 May 2017 - 06:10 AM.

[EricTzH]

1. Probably Rhinos (http://www.containme...t-category/mtb/) or Meishel2.0 (https://foamblastsho...ategory/motors/) motors. Both I guess ship from within the US. You could maybe try PMing Meishel here or contact her on her website (Foamblast) and see if she can ship faster.
 
2. Any motor that fits a Stryfe (or Rapidstrike) will fit in a Rapid Red. 130-size motors like Rhinos (not "Rhino Fire") or Meishel 2.0s will fit without having to modify the shell at all. 180-size motors will require you to cut holes in the shell, but technically still "fit."
 
3. You can just use the same wire as if you were replacing the motors; it certainly won't hurt. Battery depends on what you are comfortable with. Do you know how to handle a LiPo? Do you have a LiPo charger (which one)? What stryfe guide are you talking about specifically?
 
4. Why do you need another guide besides Meishel's? It seemed pretty comprehensive.

Thanks for the information jwasko.
I'm still an absolute beginner to flywheel, so i did not have any charger n battery yet.

I'm planning to follow the Meishel's guide and using Meishel 2.0 Motor.Theres some problem i met now and I tried Google but did not get any answer.

What kind of amp of micro switch can I use for Meishel 2.0 motor?

What is a JST connector and what is the purpose of it in this modification ?


the guide i decide to follow now: http://nerfhaven.com...-picture-heavy/

Edited by EricTzH, 31 May 2017 - 08:09 AM.

[jwasko]

In Meishel's writeup she recommended several LiPo packs that all have a JST discharge plug on them. In order to use a LiPo, you need to be able to connect the discharge plug to the blaster's wiring.
 
According to https://foamblastsho...shel-2-0-motor/the stall current (for one motor I guess) is 18.8Amps. So in theory you may need 37.6amps for two motors.
 
In practice a switch in the 15-20Amp range is probably sufficient.  V-214-1C6 by Omron will probably be fine. One of the switches from foamblast.com (or wherever you are getting the motors) should be fine too assuming it's one of the 15 or 16amp ones.

 

Note: Meishel's original motors did not require as much current as the Meishel 2.0 batteries (about half actually). Some of the batteries recommended in that guide are a little bit wimpy for the 2.0 motors. This one provides 47.5amps at burst (950milliamps multiplied by 50C) so it should be okay, though it still may be cutting it a bit close.
 
Also, I suggest you watch this if you haven't already: 

[EricTzH]

In Meishel's writeup she recommended several LiPo packs that all have a JST discharge plug on them. In order to use a LiPo, you need to be able to connect the discharge plug to the blaster's wiring.
 
According to https://foamblastsho...shel-2-0-motor/the stall current (for one motor I guess) is 18.8Amps. So in theory you may need 37.6amps for two motors.
 
In practice a switch in the 15-20Amp range is probably sufficient.  V-214-1C6 by Omron will probably be fine. One of the switches from foamblast.com (or wherever you are getting the motors) should be fine too assuming it's one of the 15 or 16amp ones.

 

Note: Meishel's original motors did not require as much current as the Meishel 2.0 batteries (about half actually). Some of the batteries recommended in that guide are a little bit wimpy for the 2.0 motors. This one provides 47.5amps at burst (950milliamps multiplied by 50C) so it should be okay, though it still may be cutting it a bit close.
 
Also, I suggest you watch this if you haven't already: 

 

 

Opps I should watch it before I did my purchase.

The mistake that i made now is, i bought two of the 950mah batteries (the one you said cutting a bit close) , and Meishel 2.0 motors.

 

So there is three choice for me now. 

1. Return the batteries and pay the return shipping cost （should be 9USD). Then, Buy new batteries.

2. Purchase Meishel 1.0 Motor, and run it with this battery i bought. Motor are cheap (4-5 USD). However, the motor will be sent from Hong Kong, and Im worry that it couldnt be done before EndWar.

 

3. Run this battery with Meishel 2.0 Motor. 

 

How big the difference is going to be if I run this battery with Meishel original 1.0 VS Meishel 2.0?

 

Sry my english is not really good, may i know what is "cutting it a bit close" means? is that means it will be a biy weak on the first 10 second? (btw 950/50=19, not 47.5)

Edited by EricTzH, 03 June 2017 - 06:25 AM.

[jwasko]

 

Sry my english is not really good, may i know what is "cutting it a bit close" means? is that means it will be a biy weak on the first 10 second? (btw 950/50=19, not 47.5)

 

I was not dividing. Capacity (Ah) multiplied by C-rating = Current

 

950mAh (milliamp-Hours) /1000= 0.95Ah (amp-hours)

 

0.95Ah*50C = 47.5 amps provided by the battery

 

50C (47.5Amps) is the burst rating of the battery. That means it's okay for the motors to require 47.5amps for a short period of time.

 

 

Two Meishel2.0 motors= 37.6 Amps total required at stall

 

The motors will only need 37.6 Amps for 1 or 2 seconds when you first turn them on, or if a dart is stuck in them and you keep trying to spin them.

 

37.6Amps required is less than 47.5Amps provided by the battery, so it is okay. The bigger the difference, the better.

 

If they were the same, or if the battery provided less Amps than required, it will damage the battery. 

 

The 950mAh battery should be okay. Just watch that it does not start to swell or get too hot,

 

Also, after rewiring make sure to test with regular batteries (like AAs) first instead of the LiPo. You could solder an extra JST connector to the stock battery try before you hack up the stock battery try. Test the blaster to make sure the regular batteries don't get hot or anything. Regular batteries getting hot could mean they are being shorted. If you short a LiPo it will catch fire.

Edited by jwasko, 03 June 2017 - 08:36 PM.

[EricTzH]

 

I was not dividing. Capacity (Ah) multiplied by C-rating = Current

 

950mAh (milliamp-Hours) /1000= 0.95Ah (amp-hours)

 

0.95Ah*50C = 47.5 amps provided by the battery

 

50C (47.5Amps) is the burst rating of the battery. That means it's okay for the motors to require 47.5amps for a short period of time.

 

 

Two Meishel2.0 motors= 37.6 Amps total required at stall

 

The motors will only need 37.6 Amps for 1 or 2 seconds when you first turn them on, or if a dart is stuck in them and you keep trying to spin them.

 

37.6Amps required is less than 47.5Amps provided by the battery, so it is okay. The bigger the difference, the better.

 

If they were the same, or if the battery provided less Amps than required, it will damage the battery. 

 

The 950mAh battery should be okay. Just watch that it does not start to swell or get too hot,

 

Also, after rewiring make sure to test with regular batteries (like AAs) first instead of the LiPo. You could solder an extra JST connector to the stock battery try before you hack up the stock battery try. Test the blaster to make sure the regular batteries don't get hot or anything. Regular batteries getting hot could mean they are being shorted. If you short a LiPo it will catch fire.

Thanks you're a good teacher!!! I just ordered all the material online and I will be start modding on Wednesday!