5 replies to this topic

[oleo23]

I've recently started trying to pick up modding, but I have little to no understand of electrical work even after hours of watching, and reading up on modifications. I recently finished my first very very basic stryfe modification, a simple rewiring, and lock removal. Now i'm more confident in my soldering abilities, and I want to move onto trying more advanced projects. In the next month I'm going to mod a stryfe, a modulus ECS-10, and a Khaos. Before I start ordering parts I want to make sure I have some of the best things picked out for these projects. I'll be using MTB rhino 130 motors for the stryfe, and Modulus, S3 lipos in all 3 of the blasters, red artifact flywheel cages in the stryfe, and Modulus, an extended battery cover for the stryfe, Cherry DB2 microswitches in all three, and either worker flywheels, or artifact smooth aluminum flywheels in the two blasters. My questions for you fellow nerfers are

 

1. which of the two flywheels, or possible another recommended pair is best? I've searched around, and still can't find a solid answer.

 

2. Will the red artifact flywheel cage work in a nerf modulus?

 

3. Will the Cherry microswitches work fine in all 3, or should I use something else?

 

4. I'm still unsure of a lipo battery, I'll have 2 i'm looking at for all 3 linked below

 

5. I'll also take recommendations on a lipo charger, since I've yet to invest in one.

 

I'll appreciate all input for these projects, and thankyou all for whatever help you can give!

 

If anyone is interested I can keep the community posted on my work as I start moving forward on these.

 

 

https://www.etsy.com..._home_active_34

 

https://www.etsy.com..._home_active_12

 

https://tacticoolfoa...e-flywheel-cage

 

http://www.3dprinted...-battery-cover/

 

https://www.etsy.com..._home_active_26

 

https://www.etsy.com..._home_active_19

 

https://hobbyking.co...-lipo-pack.html

 

https://hobbyking.co...-lipo-pack.html

 

https://hobbyking.co...discharger.html

[Telerran]

So the modulus has a different flywheel cage and as such it needs different flywheels. If you want a custom flywheel cage for it Dr Snikkas is the only one who currently makes them.

Both the worker and the artifact flywheels are good doe the stryfe,the artifact ones are quieter but the increased weight will cause a slight drop in fps. Worker also makes different sized flywheels specifically for the modulus.

Cherry switches are good and will work pretty well for your builds though you might get slightly better performance from a 15a switch the difference isn't that big for 130 motors

As for a lipo what you want is one that's constant c value times in mAh (EDIT: meant Ah not mAh) is higher then the stall current of your motors so about 20. But if your not one for math 25-40c constant​(the lower number they give you) with as much mAh as you can fit should suit you just fine.

Don't really know much about lipo chargers so hopefully someone can help you with that but hope this helped some

Edited by Telerran, 27 March 2017 - 02:30 PM.

[truglodite]

I love cherry switches for my arcade controllers, and imagine they'd also have a quicker feel on a nerf gun. You could use a fet or relay to mitigate impedance concerns with a cherry switch... get the best of both worlds.

 

Regarding lipos, be aware that many affordable lipos on the market are not correctly rated (ie watch out for the 10C lipos marked as 30C, etc... forum research is good to weed them out).

 

When it comes to lipo chargers, whatever you get make sure it will balance charge with decent precision (+-0.01V), and preferably get one that can do storage charging.

 

There are a ton of cheapo lipo balance chargers that do a sloppy +-0.2V balance, which will result in way out of spec operation and wear out your packs very quickly (few months vs 5yrs for example). Unfortunately, balancing precision is not a very big marketing term, so only the higher end chargers are likely to actually state the spec (rc forums are a good place for such data). Storage charging is underrated, and it does wonders for the lifetime & performance of your lipos. If you haven't heard of storage charging, google it... it's how they keep lipos going forever in satellites & stuff.

 

There's also amp and volt rating... you'll want one that can handle the voltage and amps you might need for your lipos. If you ever want to try 4s in your nerf guns, you should invest in a 4s capable charger now. For amps, lipos are best charged at a rate of 1C max... ex a 600mAh: 0.6Ah x 1C = 0.6A charge. Some newer lipo packs are rated for higher C charges, but they all last much longer charging at 1C or less (high C charge lipos are for things like RC, where a pack lasts just 5-10min and waiting 1hr to charge can suck the life out of an outing). Since nerf guns don't blow through packs, you won't need to invest in 'fast charge lipos', nor a bigger (amps wise) charger to go with them.

 

I have a bunch of iCharger's I swear by (i have a pair of 106b+'s, and a 210... paid for a 106b, helped the company with early D+ mode development, and they send me the other 2 free as a thanks), but they aren't cheap. I also do A LOT more than just charge nerf gun packs with it (rc/arduino/powerwheels/etc... lipo/nimh/pb/lithium... 50mAh to 10000mAh... 1s to 6s). They have rediculous specs for the $$$, really (like getting a legit $600 charger for $100). Someone else may want to chime in here on some more affordable models that meet typical nerf needs (just beware of the above mentioned specs).

 

Hope this helps,

Kev

Edited by truglodite, 27 March 2017 - 03:48 PM.

[SirBrass]

So the modulus has a different flywheel cage and as such it needs different flywheels. If you want a custom flywheel cage for it Dr Snikkas is the only one who currently makes them.

Incorrect. Alice Coatduck and the open flywheel project do cages for the modulus.

Yes you still need flywheels if you're not going to use the stock modulus flywheels but those cages can be used with the stock flywheels.

[oleo23]

So the modulus has a different flywheel cage and as such it needs different flywheels. If you want a custom flywheel cage for it Dr Snikkas is the only one who currently makes them.

Both the worker and the artifact flywheels are good doe the stryfe,the artifact ones are quieter but the increased weight will cause a slight drop in fps. Worker also makes different sized flywheels specifically for the modulus.

Cherry switches are good and will work pretty well for your builds though you might get slightly better performance from a 15a switch the difference isn't that big for 130 motors

As for a lipo what you want is one that's constant c value times in mAh (EDIT: meant Ah not mAh) is higher then the stall current of your motors so about 20. But if your not one for math 25-40c constant​(the lower number they give you) with as much mAh as you can fit should suit you just fine.

Don't really know much about lipo chargers so hopefully someone can help you with that but hope this helped some

 

Thank you for the info! I looked into Dr.Snikkas before, and while he has an amazing product I'm not quite ready to shell out that much on just the flywheel cage. I did find modulus flywheels though

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Worker-MOD-Lightweight-Flywheels-Upgrade-for-Nerf-MODULUS-ECS-10-Modified-Toy-/311552614867 

 

 

Incorrect. Alice Coatduck and the open flywheel project do cages for the modulus.

Yes you still need flywheels if you're not going to use the stock modulus flywheels but those cages can be used with the stock flywheels.

Thank you! I was about to give up the search. Someone is selling cages from the open flywheel project, and they get a kickback for every product sold.

https://ahalekelly.com/

[SirBrass]

Also Dr Snikka cages are canted, which is no bueno at high speeds. Your darts will whirlybird with canting at high velocities. A straight cage, high torque motors, good flywheel, and good heavier darts (like Ekind) will get you great accuracy.