6 replies to this topic

[SirBrass]

FYI, this is a copy/paste of the same post I made on britnerf.

This was a much easier project than the 180 Rapidstrike rewire, but nowhere near as straightforward. Since I was using 16awg wire throughout, I had to get creative in where and at what angle the wires were soldered to each other and to terminals. It couldn't just be "at that general angle", but with certain ones it had to be precise positioning.

Something to note about the XSW kit. The stock motor does not produce sufficient torque to brake well with motor braking but it is quite fast regardless. This means that live center cycle control instantly means runaway pusher, so dead center is a must when powering the stock kit pusher motor on 2s lipo. Nothing burned out when it went into runaway, but unplugging the battery and desoldering the live wire was required. If I replace the stock motor with a rhino or hellcat, I'll attempt live center again however, so I didn't snip the live cycle control wire and instead capped it with heatshrink so it can't get into mischief with other wiring in the meantime.

Here are pictures of the internal wiring and then a YT video of a 10rnd dump. I did bungle the trigger at the end but that was my finger's fault, not a hiccup in the internals.

Here you can see how I did the pusher wiring.



And the battery tray


And here's the firing demo:
https://youtu.be/tAnu0cMyRNg

I replaced the stock firing switch with a cherry dc2 10A switch, and I used a rolling level 5A microswitch from RadioShack as the cycle control. The pusher is powered independently of the flywheels because I don't require the safety included in requiring the flywheel switch to be closed in order to activate the pusher, and it makes it easier to test.

[Geric2004]

Woah! That's Cool! DO you think you'll be able to make a complete write-up on it?

[SirBrass]

What else are you wanting to know?

[shandsgator8]

Cool stuff!

 

What's the advantage of doing this mod over just using a lightly modded Rapidstrike, besides size and the engineering/modding challenge? (which I fully understand and commend)

[SirBrass]

Mainly accuracy. The rapidstrike has this long useless thing in front of the flywheel cage that throws darts off target wildly when you go high power on flywheel motors. I'd need to work out a barrel solution which increases faux barrel inner diameter but still fits the blaster, etc to take its negative effects out of the equation.

The stryfe has no such thing. Its faux barrel is too short to do much damage and on semi auto with 180s, I was getting very precise shots from it with worker flywheels & waffleheaded x-tip darts

Then there's form factor. Sure I could make a rapidpistol, but that requires hacking up the RS shell very much and I don't want to do that. I just like the compact nature of the stryfe a lot.

Also, the return spring on the stryfe pusher lends to a hair more controllability on auto than the RS.

Edited by SirBrass, 17 March 2017 - 09:09 AM.

[shandsgator8]

Makes sense.

 

With regards to the accuracy issue, are you having whirly bird issues when using darts, like Koosh darts? I had this exact problem and to fix it, I simply sanded out my Rapidstrike "rifled" barrel. Or you can use a "straight" barrel, like from a first generation Raider.

[SirBrass]

I don't have the tools to sand out that long of a barrel. I have an old recon front attachment coming so I'll use that old smooth faux barrel as a replacement.

These inconsistent shots are with x-tip waffleheads which don't get that kind of inconsistency even out of my rampage which still has the stock rifled barrel. I also think it's a dart to fwc issue (need a dart guide) and a fwc alignment issue. What I need are more red cages and worker flywheels.