7 replies to this topic

[tyler m]

I am modding my stampede, my first "real" mod, and I'm not 100% sure what to do here.

 

1st Question: should I plug these holes on the plunger so the air doesn't escape?

There are four small holes on the back of the plunger. It's on the piece you unscrew to access the main spring.

 

2nd Question: Is the little blue computer chip that attaches to the motor necessary? 

I'm trying to upgrade the motor, and it would be much harder to salvage that chip, as it as already soldered, instead of just hooking the wires directly to the motor.

 

 

3rd Question: Theres a gap between the o-ring and the plunger wall

How would I be able to fill that gap?

 

4th Question: Is it gonna break?

I put an orange mod works 8kg spring,(rated for this blaster)  and I know plastic is pretty strong but I'd rather not have it break

Edited by tyler m, 04 March 2017 - 05:58 PM.

[ToadBrews]

3rd question I can answer. Remove O-ring with tweezers or pliers, remove lube, wrap plunger head with teflon tape or electrical tape, reapply o-ring, check fit, if it fits lube it up with plastic safe lubricant.

[The Manta]

For the first one, you should definitely leave the holes on the back of the plunger tube. These help avoid a vacuum in the rear part of the plunger as the piston moves forward, making it move faster in general. I think there is a small hole in the plunger head that you'll want to fill. This mod guide by SG Nerf covers most of the basics, just ignore the battery part, it's a bit outdated in that subject.

[tyler m]

For the first one, you should definitely leave the holes on the back of the plunger tube. These help avoid a vacuum in the rear part of the plunger as the piston moves forward, making it move faster in general. I think there is a small hole in the plunger head that you'll want to fill. This mod guide by SG Nerf covers most of the basics, just ignore the battery part, it's a bit outdated in that subject.

yeah there is one in the head of the plunger. Ill plug it with some superglue thx

[Shadowslayer1924]

The blue chip on the motor is not necessary you can just desolder the chip off of the motor and the wires and just solder the wires to the motor, make sure you get your polarities right. 8 kg spring will not break the gears just don't add any more springs along with it. (btw if you do this again, I recommend a 5 kg retaliator spring with the stock one, good fire rate and good range.)

[tyler m]

The blue chip on the motor is not necessary you can just desolder the chip off of the motor and the wires and just solder the wires to the motor, make sure you get your polarities right. 8 kg spring will not break the gears just don't add any more springs along with it. (btw if you do this again, I recommend a 5 kg retaliator spring with the stock one, good fire rate and good range.)

What is the chip exactly? I'm not doubting your judgement I just want to make 100% certain I don't need it, as I'm not an expert in soldering and I may end up breaking the chip while removing it.

 

And as for the 5kg retaliator spring along with the stock, how much range is it getting??

[Shadowslayer1924]

What is the chip exactly? I'm not doubting your judgement I just want to make 100% certain I don't need it, as I'm not an expert in soldering and I may end up breaking the chip while removing it.

 

And as for the 5kg retaliator spring along with the stock, how much range is it getting??

The chip is just a PCB used for resistance. desolder the black and red wires from the chip and then hold the soldering iron where the wires were connected and pull the chip upwards, rinse and repeat for the other side.

 

As for the ranges on it I would say with a 80-90% seal and rather crappy darts i was hitting about 30-50 feet (this is a estimate)

[tyler m]

K thanks the 8kg is probably overkill