Batteries
#1
Posted 23 November 2016 - 12:06 PM
Psylocke
#2
Posted 23 November 2016 - 12:44 PM
The people on here will tell you to do one of two things, depending on their personal preference, and will discount the feasibility of the other.
Option one: Leave the stock battery tray in and use 2x 3.6-volt AA-size batteries (Trustfires) and 2x AA-size dummies.
Option two: Gouge away at the battery tray so a 7.2-volt Lithium-Polymer (2S LiPo) can fit in and, when rewiring, include an appropriate quick disconnect (Deans, XT60, Tamiya) for the battery pack. Also, slip a low-voltage alarm onto the balance lead of the LiPo.
If you go with #1, you can put normal AA cells back in, to bring your system down to toy-level performance.
If you want even more power, you can upgrade your motors to something stronger (E.G. MakeTestBattle's Rhinos) and use 3x Trustfires or a 3S LiPo, or an 180-size motor if you don't mind carving a chunk out of the side of your blaster's shell.
Unlike some people here, I'm not going to tell you what you should do.
I know how to help you because I have broken every rule in the book.
#3
Posted 23 November 2016 - 01:55 PM
Unlike some people here, I'm not going to tell you what you should do.
Unlike some people here, I am not going to give you dangerous information. NEVER USE TRUSTFIRES. They do not supply enough current for the application and are a fire/explosion risk. Use IMR batteries of good quality instead if you want AA size batteries that provide the correct voltage and current.
Nerf, Gaming, knives: https://www.youtube....FjcObRZTl2KReDQ
#4
Posted 23 November 2016 - 03:29 PM
Psylocke
#5
Posted 23 November 2016 - 04:25 PM
Should I use 4 IMRs or use a dummy?
Depends on the motors you're using and the voltages they require.
Edited by The2ndBluesBro, 23 November 2016 - 04:27 PM.
Nerf, Gaming, knives: https://www.youtube....FjcObRZTl2KReDQ
#6
Posted 23 November 2016 - 09:28 PM
You need to have a more concrete idea of what you want to do. "Lock removal" has nothing to do with the electrical system that you are trying to implement. You want advice on what your powerplant should be, but literally the only information you've given about the electrical system is "rewire". You haven't provided any information on the motors you will be using, which essentially determine the answer to the questions you ask here. Stock motor? Honey badgers? Rhinos? Blades? There is no "set" combo really, Everyone's combo is a little different. Do you want higher battery capacity? Or lighter weight? Or faster spin-up time? It all depends on what you are trying to optimize and what you want to do. I will NOT design an electrical system for you, nor will I teach you a circuits class. I'll give you a few resources.
http://www.candlepow...t-IMR-quot-mean
http://rogershobbyce....com/lipoguide/
http://library.autom...ctrical-theory/
http://hyperphysics....base/emcon.html
Do your research first, because if you don't AT BEST you will cook your blaster and walk away unscathed. Look up exploding LiPos and you will understand that no, I am not exaggerating. Do a few hours of research before you post again. You should be able to make this thing on your own. Then if you run into trouble designing this and provide a detailed list of what you want to do then maybe we will be more inclined to provide assistance. Research motors, wires, batteries, switches, etc.
Edited by Aeromech, 23 November 2016 - 09:39 PM.
#7
Posted 24 November 2016 - 08:41 AM
I will be using stock or worker fly wheels.
But I will do more research (I may just use regular batteries).
DON'T DOUBLE POST. JUST EDIT YOUR OLD POST IF YOU NEED TO ADD SOMETHING.
Edited by Ice Nine, 24 November 2016 - 11:04 AM.
Psylocke
#8
Posted 24 November 2016 - 10:05 AM
But I will do more research (I may just use regular batteries).
If your going to use regular batteries, just remove the locks.
I Found some epoxy putty hidden in the basement and freaked out.
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