11 replies to this topic

[Remzak]

The Nerf Rapidstrike has a fantastic guide that can be found here: http://torukmakto4.b...ated-guide.html     The Brute is much simpler, but in my opinion it still deserves a guide to address several key parts of the mod. 
 
Materials:
 

 
Option A (Using IMR's):
Soldering iron 
Solder
2 Micro-switches (I used these:
http://www.amazon.co...ds=microswitch)
Hobby knife or drill with 3/8" bit
Superglue
 
Option B (Using LiPo)(Preferred):
All Option A materials
Battery connector
2 Cell LiPo (I use a 100mah pack)
Heatshrink
 
The blaster runs on 4 AA batteries, so using IMR's is actually as simple as installing them like normal AA batteries. There are NO LOCKS either electronic or mechanical in the brute. I recommend following my switch replacement however, it will add performance and reliability. Opening the brute is a pain. I recommend removing all the screws, then using a flat head screwdriver as a pry bar. Be careful and go slow, but because the plastic is flexible you should be able to open the blaster without damaging anything. Remove the stock first, then the blue piece on the handle, and then the blaster should open freely.
 

 
These are the internals, the wire gauge is acceptable, but definitely only for the stock motors. If you replace the motors definitely replace the wire. As I stated earlier there are no locks in the blaster and you don't actually need to add any wire to the blaster.
 
Overview:

 
Flywheel Closeup:

 
Stock and battery door pieces:

 
Mag release picture to help with reassembly.

 
The brute has a dart guide, which is a nice feature for reliability, especially with no jam door on the blaster.

 
The flywheels are horrible. Look at the holes, or lack thereof. Buzzbee tried to add lightening holes, but ruined the balance of the flywheels. That's why you have the drill and/or hobby knife. Fix the holes so the wheels are symmetrical.

 
I used a drill with a 3/8" bit at low rpm.

 
The motors have no thermistors or resistors.

 
The pusher motor has none either.

 
The stock switches need to go. They are simply two flexible metal tabs, which have high resistance and poor reliability. 

 
Desolder them from the circuit and unscrew their mounting point.

 
The switches need to be replaced with a microswitch. The ones I used are in the materials list at the top. Remove the roller if your switch has one and tin the tabs.

 
Solder your new switches onto the stock leads, then mount them with superglue. It is very important that you mount the switches in a way in which the switch is moved to the on position when the trigger is pulled, but also in a way in which it does not impede the trigger movement. The way to do this will vary from switch to switch but always test fit the switches before you glue them in. Test your circuit and make sure everything is functional.

 
Now that the switches are squared away you need to solder the battery leads. If you are using IMR's then just remove the two yellow components (PTCs) and resolver the wires. I recommend using two IMR cells. If you are using a battery pack you need to remove the stock battery tray to fit your pack.

 
Desolder the wires and cut them to an even length.

 
Solder on the connector of your choice with heatshrink to insulate the contacts. 

 
Reassemble the blaster and you are done!

 
Three cells will burn darts, cause major slippage, and decrease range. Use a maximum of 9 volts.

Assuming all went well your brute should be shooting 90-100 fps. The motors that come with the brute are pretty good, the flywheels however are not. Aftermarket flywheels are certainly an option, but spacing will become an issue. If you are trying to be extremely game effective go buy a Stryfe or Rapidstrike, they can achieve much higher velocities than the brute is capable of. Rev times with a LiPo should be lightning fast and the fire rate will have much more get up and go.

Edited by Remzak, 10 April 2016 - 11:35 AM.

[xXD3V1LXx]

Great write up! It is definatly helpful, but what lipo do you use? Like 1000 mha

[Remzak]

OP edited. I use a 2S 1000mah Rhino 20-30C LiPo from Hobbyking.

Edited by Remzak, 09 April 2016 - 08:20 AM.

[Wisecrack]

Cool! I already have mine modded but if I pick up another I'll use this.

[xXD3V1LXx]

would a 3s 2200 mah 40c lipo be ok?

[Remzak]

On 3S the brute motors are burning darts. The stock flywheels will just slip on the darts.

[Edward the Assassin]

Is it possible to take the flywheels out of a stryfe and put those in the brute? Thanks for doing this write up!

[Remzak]

Is it possible to take the flywheels out of a stryfe and put those in the brute? Thanks for doing this write up!

You could do it but the flywheels would barely contact the darts. The issue is the motor spacing is too wide, the darts don't get compressed enough by the flywheels. Ranges would likely decrease as the diameter of stryfe flywheels is slightly smaller than brute flywheels.

[TheOrk]

Hi there,

I just got my BuzzBee "Brute" (maketed - quite confusing me as Ultra Tek Auto Tek 10 over here) and plan to do quite exactly the modifications you did:

 

Intend to replace the Cables with 1mm² (17 awg?), put in a small 2S1P Lipo for a little more Volts but a lot more current to have it spin up faster and keep the speed a little better in Full auto. Maybe shorten the over all rifle a little too, the shoulder thing is useless anyway. Not planning to do anything "insane" like 3S and replacement motors + metal flywheels... I want to be able to use it in Nerfwars, not win an actual war with it.

 

There is however one big question troubeling me: Switches! This kind of Lipo can supply something like 10A of current and the motors seem to be able to draw that kind of current, too? The wire can handle it, but what about switches? Th highest rated microswitches I can find are 25V 3A rated. (Yes, there are 10A microswitches out there but for 250V AC, a totally different thing). Do you think the stock switches can handle the current? Would the 3A switches be sufficient because you only use them for a short time? What switches do you use with your 2S lipo and do they turn warm?

 

How long can you run the Brute on 2S lipo with 800 or 1000 mAh? Is it enough power for some hours of nerf war?

 

Thanks a lot!

Edited by TheOrk, 22 April 2016 - 02:37 AM.

[Remzak]

Hi there,
I just got my BuzzBee "Brute" (maketed - quite confusing me as Ultra Tek Auto Tek 10 over here) and plan to do quite exactly the modifications you did:
 
Intend to replace the Cables with 1mm² (17 awg?), put in a small 2S1P Lipo for a little more Volts but a lot more current to have it spin up faster and keep the speed a little better in Full auto. Maybe shorten the over all rifle a little too, the shoulder thing is useless anyway. Not planning to do anything "insane" like 3S and replacement motors + metal flywheels... I want to be able to use it in Nerfwars, not win an actual war with it.
 
There is however one big question troubeling me: Switches! This kind of Lipo can supply something like 10A of current and the motors seem to be able to draw that kind of current, too? The wire can handle it, but what about switches? Th highest rated microswitches I can find are 25V 3A rated. (Yes, there are 10A microswitches out there but for 250V AC, a totally different thing). Do you think the stock switches can handle the current? Would the 3A switches be sufficient because you only use them for a short time? What switches do you use with your 2S lipo and do they turn warm?
 
How long can you run the Brute on 2S lipo with 800 or 1000 mAh? Is it enough power for some hours of nerf war?
 
Thanks a lot!

Your intended mods sound good. Anything is better than the stock switches. ANYTHING. Replace them immediately. The switches I use are rated for 5A 250V AC and never get warm. 1000mah is more than enough for the brute, the basic calculation is ~1 shot per mah. I did a full retire and minimized my brute as well.

[TheOrk]

Thanks for your quick reply :-D

 

The switches I use are rated for 5A 250V AC and never get warm.

Good to know, I will go with the 3A 25V DC switches.

 

1000mah is more than enough for the brute, the basic calculation is ~1 shot per mah.

I did a full retire and minimized my brute as well.

O.k. 800 or 1000 it is. Will see what size Lipo I can fit into the gun, will put a Lipo Volt-Warner in there, too. Where did you put the Lipo in your minimized version? The grip is obviously not the place to put it, it's tiny. Above the Magazine Slot or under the flywheels where the blue handgrip is could work?

 

EDIT: If I do something new / different, should I document it in your thread or open a new Buzz Bee Brute thread?

Edited by TheOrk, 23 April 2016 - 04:51 AM.

[Remzak]

 
O.k. 800 or 1000 it is. Will see what size Lipo I can fit into the gun, will put a Lipo Volt-Warner in there, too. Where did you put the Lipo in your minimized version? The grip is obviously not the place to put it, it's tiny. Above the Magazine Slot or under the flywheels where the blue handgrip is could work?
 
EDIT: If I do something new / different, should I document it in your thread or open a new Buzz Bee Brute thread?

I have the LiPo attached externally in the back. Any of those places would work, but keep in mind you need to be able to charge it.

Unless you are posting a writeup it is best to either reply here or post it in the mods/paintjobs thread.