34 replies to this topic

[Dajonx]

Hi!

 

My 4 year old kid loves the gun, but it drains the C batteries after a couple of days.  I looked up battery mods and got a lot of info regarding purchasing two eFest IMR AA batteries with PVC tubing along with two "dummy" batteries (I wasn't able to find much info about that nor how to make them).  Then I read that using those batteries isn't exactly safe which is important to me since my kid is playing with it.  I also read that using "LiPo" batteries is good, but I have never attempted to rewire stuff.  Also, I haven't really found any detailed how-to to install the LiPo batteries.  

 

Could someone please help me mod the gun so that the batteries last longer and is safe for my kid to use?  

Another question I have is the dart jams a lot.  Is there a fix for that?

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this.

[shandsgator8]

If this blaster is for your 4 year old, I would not recommend installing a rechargeable battery with lithium chemistry, such as Lithium Polymer or Lithium Ion. This is because of the risk of damaging them if they're overdischarged (although someone can correct me if trustfire and ultrafire batteries have built in low voltage cut off) and fire hazard if they're mistreated.

 

Lithium Iron Phosphate might be ok, but that's probably more trouble and cost to you than it's worth.

 

I would recommend a rechargeable NiMH battery pack of 6 cells. I personally use a 6 cell AA pack I made myself out of Eneloops. it provides substantial performance increase (range and rate of fire), but lasts forever and is rechargeable. The only problem with this set up as applied to you is that you'll need a R/C hobby style charger and a little rewiring or rearranging of the Rapidstrike's battery compartment. If you're worried that this performance boost would be unsafe, you could use 5 NiMH cells.

 

I wonder if using 4 size C NiMH cells (or AA NiMH cells with C battery spacers) would provide the same performance as 4 alkaline C cells. My gut is that it would and would be a drop in replacement and a no-brainer to recharge. Anyone have any experience with this? I can probably do some testing myself in a few days.

 

As for jamming, I heard removing the skirt seal can help. Also, make sure your kid isn't using bent or damaged darts.

 

Where in PA are you?

Edited by shandsgator8, 04 January 2016 - 10:52 AM.

[FoamsFired]

For a 4 yr old stick with Duracell. As to the jamming, the first dart almost always jams (mine at least) after first dart jams remove Dart but not clip and then let the flywheels rev completely then it should work fine.

Hope this is somewhat helpful.

Edited by FoamsFired, 04 January 2016 - 10:56 AM.

[Dajonx]

Thank you for your responses!

 

I have been using Duracell and replacing them every two days is getting quite expensive ($8-$9 per two days!).  

 

I think my kid is pretty responsible so I think if performance is improved he'll be fine.  Plus he's shooting at me so I'll be the one in pain... 

 

Can you please help me modify the gun to use the rechargeable NiMH AA pack?  The words "lasts forever and is rechargeable" sold me.  On a difficulty scale from 1 to 10 (10 being there's no way I should attempt this), how difficult would this mod be?  And is it costly?

 

I'm in the Chester County area.  Where are you?

[shandsgator8]

I'm in SE PA and run with a few people in Bucks County. Our Nerf wars are more adult oriented in that we used modified stock blasters (aka: "superstock"); you might learn a lot (and have some fun) if you joined us. Your son might be a little too young for playing with us, however. But then again, I don't run the group, so you can talk with the leader of the group. He goes by DblDrgn on Nerfhaven. His site is: https://panerf.wordpress.com.

 

As for your battery situation, this is what I recommend:

 

1. Prechargead NiMH batteries and charger. The Duracell recommendation is a good one. I'm loyal to Eneloop, but practically speaking, Eneloop and Duracell precharged batteries are the same quality and performance: http://www.amazon.co...charged charger

 

2. C battery spacers/adapters: http://www.amazon.co...battery spacers

 

These should be a drop in replacement for C alkaline batteries and despite the lower voltage, performance will be about the same. When the batteries run down, remove them from the spacers and place them in the included charger. If you like this setup, I would get a total of 8 AA NiMH batteries so you can have pretty much all day play while the 8 batteries charge at night.

 

If you want to go with a 6 cell battery pack, you'll have to either buy one or build one yourself. I don't recommend building one unless you have soldering and R/C battery pack experience. On a scale of 1-10, with 1 being what I just recommend and 10 being making a homemade of the likes and quality of what Aeromech produces, I'd put this battery mod at about a 3 or 4. You will need soldering experience for this more complex mod. If you don't have a soldering iron, you'll need to spend at least $40 (probably more) for the 6 NiMH cells, a soldering iron, soldering equipment, wiring supplies and a NiMH capable hobby or R/C charger.

Edited by shandsgator8, 04 January 2016 - 11:47 AM.

[shandsgator8]

Update on my question about using 4 AA NiMH cells with C battery spacers in the Rapidstrike. After comparing this set up with 4 C alkalines, the performance was slightly less, although hardly noticeable. One definite advantage: the batteries are rechargeable and the Rapidstrike is much lighter.

[Dajonx]

Oh nice!  That sounds simple enough.  I didn't think AA batteries could simply replace the C batteries.  I wonder why Nerf didn't do this from the get-go.  I was eyeing the Nerf Modulus just because it can take four AA batteries, but thought it was too big for my kid.  The Rapidstrike was much bigger than I thought, but he can at least hold it (pretty awkwardly though) and shoot it (not optimally).  But if he can play with it then that means we can keep it and I can play with it too!  

 

The cost of the batteries you linked me to and the spacers (the ones you linked me to wasn't Prime so I went with this) costs $30 so it's only $10 difference between going your route and the drop-ins.  But then again, your knowledge is worth a lot more...  But I did solder some stuff a long time ago in high school electronics class!  Haha!

 

The Nerf wars sounds really fun, but it's so far.  If it's ever around my neck of the woods, let me know!  

[jwasko]

Nerf used Cs because alkaline C-sized batteries will last longer than alkaline AA-sized, and give better performance especially when shooting full auto.
 
For your kid, though, you should be fine.
 
FYI, the jamming might just be because your son isn't revving the motors long enough before pulling the trigger. Could also be the piece of rubber shown here (the "skirt" that others have mentioned)
 
Sounds like you are going with drop-in batteries, but you could also get:
This charger
This battery pack
This connector
Then do this

Either/or should be fine, but I had this post written before you said what you were ordering. Good luck!

Edited by jwasko, 03 April 2016 - 05:44 PM.
Updated battery link

[shandsgator8]

+1 on most of what Jwasko said (assuming you eventually go that route). However, I would recommend using a different connector for the battery. Using the Tamiya style connector isn't great, but if it's a drop in mod, it's ok to leave it assuming you're using an otherwise stock Rapidstrike. However, if you're going to go through the trouble of soldering a few wires and installing new connectors, you might as well go with a low-resistance option, like Deans.

Edited by shandsgator8, 04 January 2016 - 01:51 PM.

[shandsgator8]

Nerf used Cs because alkaline C-sized batteries will last longer than alkaline AA-sized, and give better performance especially when shooting full auto...

 

Jwasko is right. However, good quality NiMH AA cells have lower internal resistance than C sized alkalines, hence my recommendation of the AA NiMH.

[jwasko]

Jwasko is right. However, good quality NiMH AA cells have lower internal resistance than C sized alkalines, hence my recommendation of the AA NiMH.

I wasn't really recommending C NiMH over AA NiMH, just putting out there why hasbro makes us buy more expensive C alkalines.

I did recommend a C-sized NiMH pack just in case he wanted to go the pack route, since he "might as well" get a C-sized pack at that point. On the other hand, I left the tamiya connector to minimize soldering to literally two wires.

I think most things are better than alkalines (and trustfires), haha, but good to know there are some decent non-Li drop-ins available.

Edited by jwasko, 04 January 2016 - 05:08 PM.

[HypergonZX]

My friend has a Rapidstrike and he runs it on 4 enelooop AA with C spacers. In my opinion, they run a bit better than standard C alkalines. I dont know if its too late, but they sell a whole kit of eneloop batteries at Costco, which is where my friend got them. It comes with spacers for C and i believe D too. It even comes with a charger, and i believe it goes for around $30. Unfortuantley, their online store doesnt carry them so I cant give you a link. 

[Dajonx]

Thank you for the responses and help!  

 

I can only post three times per day thus my lack of response.  

 

I am leaning towards the battery pack route.  The instructions seems simple enough, but I need to purchase the battery and related items as well as a soldering iron, heat shrink tubing, and solder.  I guess that could be an investment especially if my son really gets into it.  (And as he gets older, I can actually shoot him accurately instead of missing on purpose.  He does hit me pretty well and for some reason it's usually at my face, junk, or nipples...)  

 

I do have questions about the parts like should I get a higher mAh battery, "better" connectors, heat shrink tubing size, and type of soldering iron.  

[shandsgator8]

Do some research on youtube or some high traffic R/C plane or car message board for advice on how to build battery packs and soldering basics. Like many other things in life, there are different ways to do the same thing, with some methods being better than others, but you'll find what works for you. A few universal pointers:
 
- Use the hottest soldering iron you can when building packs. Until you are proficient at soldering, it's probably more cost effective to just buy a ready made pack or order a custom pack. www.cheapbatterypacks.com is a good site for custom packs.
 
- Burning organic matter stinks, but get used to it. It's inevitable you will burn your skin, flesh and/or clothing, although if you're careful and smart, it will only happen once.

 

As for connectors, I'm a WS Deans guy. I use their Micro Connectors on Nerf stuff: http://www3.towerhob...?&I=LXDKA2&P=ML
 
For something that'll pull major amps, I use their Ultra Plugs: http://www3.towerhob...p?&I=LXKX39&P=7

Edited by Ice Nine, 05 January 2016 - 03:08 PM.

[Felix the cat]

A premade 9.6v nimh battery on a rapidstrike isn't bad, though the fit is tight. Until I got the parts to triblade it into a rapidpistol the nimh pack is how I ran my rapidstrike at dart warz. And it only required removing the battery tray and soldering a connector to the battery terminals. Quick and easy. Took more time to open the blaster than to do the actual mod. My .02¢

[shandsgator8]

A premade 9.6v nimh battery on a rapidstrike isn't bad, though the fit is tight. Until I got the parts to triblade it into a rapidpistol the nimh pack is how I ran my rapidstrike at dart warz. And it only required removing the battery tray and soldering a connector to the battery terminals. Quick and easy. Took more time to open the blaster than to do the actual mod. My .02¢

 

That's pretty much what I did, but I used a 6 AA cell (7.2v) Eneloop battery pack.

[Dajonx]

Wait, what?  I thought you have to open up the gun to cut the wires to the battery terminals.  At least that's what this guy did: http://imgur.com/a/iSyXh

 

Edit: Ahh nevermind.  That's what you guys did...  Argh, I wasted a post for the day.

Edited by Dajonx, 05 January 2016 - 04:13 PM.

[shandsgator8]

Either way will work, although our way is less efficient (but quicker and easier).

[Dajonx]

Is this legit?

 

[shandsgator8]

From what I could tell by the ABSOLUTELY PISS POOR video, the concept is legit, but it's hardly ideal.

[MuffinToast]

I might be a bit late to this topic, but as much as I love the Rapidstrike, you might want to switch to a stryfe/demolisher/modulus for him. All three are semi-auto and take 4 AA batteries. The stryfe is normally $20 in my area which is cheap for a good nerf blaster. The only problem is the fact that if the trigger isn't pulled fast enough, it will slightly jam. Hopefully you can find a solution!

[Dajonx]

Ahh, I haven't looked into those guns before.  The Stryfe looks like a good size for the kids.  Demolisher looks like it's a little bigger and the Modulus looks gigantic (or is it the same size as the Rapidstrike?).  

 

I guess if the Rapidstrike battery mod goes well, I might have to do that for future guns!  

[shandsgator8]

The Stryfe is a great blaster; it's my new primary with the Rapidstrike as my backup.

[Dajonx]

Nice!  I'll have to look over the mods that's been done to the Stryfe.

[Elmoboy]

I just got 2x IMR 14500 on rapidstrike and it seen to last forever. Fired about 500 darts and battery still measure 4.2v...May I know what voltage to recharge the batteries? Or how do u tell it need to recharge cause I do not want to over discharge them... Thx