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Stryfe 2s Lipo Mod

Stryfe lipo 2s

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#1 Milfpounder

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 06:03 PM

So the local walmart is selling stryfes for $10 a pop. I picked up a few to say the least. Slapped in a few AAs and went at it for a bit. Not to shabby for what I remember when I was a kid. At first I was wondering if I could put some more voltage to the sucker, so I looked online and found the ridiculously awesome mods some folks have been doing! Blown away now I MUST mod a few of mine!

 

Here is a shot of the lil bit of plastic removal I did to fit the extra wire. I then soldered to the appropriate terminals, as so AAs could still be used if wanting to hand the gun over to a kid or something. I needed to remove some plastic under the battery door and it still bulges just a tad, but I got lucky I had a spare 2s lipo laying around that would work for this mod. I think it's a 1000 mah or so.

IMG_20151230_111104579.jpg

 

IMG_20151231_151234174.jpg

 

IMG_20151231_151303785.jpg

 

IMG_20151231_151347963.jpg

 

Now I wish I had a way to measure feet per second on this bad boy, but it hits harder than my hammershot that I removed the AR and added a fat zip tie spacer under the spring. Now to put some more rounds to measure the lipo battery life!

 

Any feedback or suggestions are appreciated, as I'm new to modding nerfs. I am an avid RC builder/modder so I'm educated when it comes to batteries! 

 

PS I saw after taking the pics, that at some point I wrote BAD on the lipo I'm using!  :blink: Musta been not enough power in one of my RCs cause it works great for this stryfe! 


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#2 CCBall

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 06:28 PM

Don't crush the power source with the battery door. I've heard that bad things come from pressurized lipos


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#3 shandsgator8

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 08:05 PM

+1 on what CCBall said; do not put pressure on those delicate pieces of chocolate candy lithium batteries.

 

You may already know, but there are ways to improve efficiency such as using a low-loss connectors for your battery, such as micro Deans. But then again, if you haven't installed a high-amp micro switch for the rev trigger and low-loss wiring, upgrading the battery plug won't do much good.

 

Out of curiosity, will those LiPos automatically cut off when their voltage drops to a certain amount?


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#4 Agles

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 01:25 AM

and ill 3rd thats been said, dont squeeze the juice out of that lipo. 

well Milfpounder says he is a RC modeler, so should have a good idea about lipos. could be he just did it for the pic. which should sand down the door and back of the batter compartment or find a smaller lipo. 

 

battery life. a AA have 1000mAh (or atleast should). so you should get same run time as AA batteries.

the JST is fine on our lower pulling planes/cars. but there isnt any speedcontrol or voltage regulators to limit the pull. id change that plug. personally id us EC3 plugs on my 3s systems. 

kids should be fine with a 2s.

only other thing i can say, give this a watch.

there is alot of food for thought on how to mod. even if you dont do the motor stuff. 

 

 

as for Shandsgator8's question. that battery he has in there does not have a cut off. but, if he knows he only used ~50% of the battier's charge in a weekend of play. then charges each weekend. he should be fine. though he could also put a low voltage alarm or volt meter like i am to keep an eye on that. 

personally, im modding a stryfe right now too. im going to try to fit a volt meter on the battery door. 


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#5 Milfpounder

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 03:52 AM

Nope no built in cutoff, I monitor voltage with multiple testers. Yes you are all correct with the "Treat you lipos like a woman on the rag" scenario, I am removing more plastic to make her more 'comfortable' haha. I'd say I'm on the safe side considering I race 1/8 scale 4x4 RC buggies that jump 30 plus feet and wreck and slam into walls and such with a soft case lipo. Only had one lipo puff up on me because I was not careful soldering and I touched the negative to positive on accident. I also remove all lipos from the vehicle/blaster when not in use and store them at half charge (7.6-7.8 volts) in an air tight metal ammo container! I also charge them on a piece of glass, the one that puffed up on me eventually failed, luckily on the glass so It didn't burn a hole through the counter! sure left a bad smell in the house though! Lipo batteries do not like being over 4.2 volts per cell. They also don't like being to low, I have stressed some of my racing batteries to about 2.6 volts per cell and that is not good. I don't plan on draining this one that low, and honestly after a days worth of shooting up all my friends (may have lost a few) it's only lost .4 volts! That's sweet! It may be a 1300 mah or somewhere around there. As for the super stryfe, I Didn't plan on going 3s so I believe I'm safe with using stock internals? As a 2s lipo is 8.4 volts. I didn't even open the thing to bypass the thermal thingy.

 

I do appreciate the comments on a better connector/wires throughout. Lord knows I have the materials. Every other battery I have is deans. 


Edited by Milfpounder, 01 January 2016 - 04:32 AM.

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#6 shandsgator8

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 10:36 AM

Looks like we have another flywheel modder that understands the concepts of lithium chemistry, current, resistance, etc., which is nice.

 

That video Agles linked to is good. I used that Stryfe video as the basis for my Stryfe mods.

 

Because I don't feel like dealing with lithium batteries, I uses NiMH. I currently run 6 cell eneloop AA in my Rapidstrike and Stryfe. You've already come to realize that using these flywheel blasters means they're not battery hogs, at least nothing like we're used to with R/C vehicles with 10-30 minute run times and pulling 50+ amps.

 

My 6 cell eneloop packs use 2,000 mah cells and after playing for about 4 hours with my Rapidstrike, I used only about 10% of the pack's capacity.


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#7 Agles

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 02:56 PM

really, 4 hours and only using about 10% of 2000mAh... 

makes me think, use a 1000mAh would be ~20%. a 500mAh would be ~40%

 

if that math is right. id go with the 500mAh and save some weight and a couple bucks.

 

ps: i understand thats play, so on and off use. would be nice to know the hours of total run on a set of batteries.


Edited by Agles, 01 January 2016 - 03:01 PM.

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#8 shandsgator8

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 03:46 PM

Angles, don't forget that the smaller the battery pack, the reduced ability to handle high currents. So all things being equal, a 1,000mah battery pack will be able to deliver more current more efficiently than a 500mah battery pack.

 

Also, depending on the performance you want, you may conclude that your given battery pack is "ineffective" once it hits 50% or so of capacity. It all depends on what kind of performance you want as well as the discharge curve of a particular battery pack/


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#9 jwasko

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 09:09 PM

Just a heads up that the stock motors have metal brushes and a tendency to burn up on 3S, so you may want to stick to 2S unless/until you want to invest in new motors.

 

Otherwise, have fun guy!


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#10 Milfpounder

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 06:23 PM

Just a heads up that the stock motors have metal brushes and a tendency to burn up on 3S, so you may want to stick to 2S unless/until you want to invest in new motors.

 

Otherwise, have fun guy!

 

Thank you! It's my girlfriends stryfe so 2s is fine by me for the time being, as I'm the one getting shot by it now.

 

I'll search the forums, but want to ask if there is any way to improve accuracy? My hammershot is great for target practice, but the 2s stryfe zips um left, right, center, then right again...

 

Hey hey guys, look what I found lying around the old RC pile...

 

IMG_20160102_161547747.jpg


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#11 shandsgator8

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 06:38 PM

I run my Stryfe with a 6 cell NIMH, although I'm using MTB Rhino motors and it works great. Even with stock motors a 6 cell NiMH will provide substantial improvement.

 

As for accuracy, don't have the flywheels spin so fast. Also, you can try non-stock Nerf darts such as Gen 3 Koosh darts, which can help accuracy.


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#12 Agles

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 09:48 PM

ya Shandsgator, i left out the C rating. that too would half to go up each time.

 

a 1c 1000mAh battery can give same as a 2c 500mAh battery but last half as long. 

im unsure about batteries normal bought for nerf mods, but RC batteries can be 20-40c. 

this is a tipical battery i see.

glacier_25c_800mah_2s.jpg

that battery can hand a pull of up to 20A. but wouldnt last long. 


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#13 Milfpounder

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 12:45 AM

Went the super lazy way with this over volted stryfe, Found an old nimh battery lying around and some extra deans connetors. So instead of tring to figure out how to get this guy to fit, I just velcroed it to the outside of the battery lid  :lol:. I know not very pretty, but I want to do a side by side comparison of voltage drops compared to the other stock stryfe with a lipo!

 

IMG_20160102_223406964.jpg


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#14 jwasko

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 02:54 PM

 

I'll search the forums, but want to ask if there is any way to improve accuracy? My hammershot is great for target practice, but the 2s stryfe zips um left, right, center, then right again...

 

It'll actually get more accurate as you shoot darts through it. Foam will start to build up on the flywheels, and that'll help a bit.

 

Also Koosh darts help, as others have said.

http://www.ebay.com/...3-/171303996691

 

They're cheap, too, although they take a little while to ship.


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We NERF ON all day, and FUCK OFF all night



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