7 replies to this topic

[CCBall]

I have an idea for a completely separated pusher/flywheel setup and I want high torque motors for the flywheels that do not require shell cutting. It doesn't really need rpm as it will be running on a much higher voltage than the front motors. I also know that I posted a similar thread a while ago, but that was for the most all out motors available. What I want is some purely torque motors that do not require shell cutting and need to be able to withstand high(er) voltages.

[xXD3V1LXx]

I have an idea for a completely separated pusher/flywheel setup and I want high torque motors for the flywheels that do not require shell cutting. It doesn't really need rpm as it will be running on a much higher voltage than the front motors. I also know that I posted a similar thread a while ago, but that was for the most all out motors available. What I want is some purely torque motors that do not require shell cutting and need to be able to withstand high(er) voltages.

At 9.6 volts the solarbotics gm2 motors are amazing but at 6 volts don't even bother

[Bryneverostasia]

At 9.6 volts the solarbotics gm2 motors are amazing but at 6 volts don't even bother

Can we please stop recommending the solarbotics rm-2 motors? They are not good for this application. They are short lived, low torque, low voltage motors. Most people use them with standard ALKALINES!! The batteries alone are not enough to provide stall current on these motors. Additionally, the metal brushes in these mean we burn them up relatively quickly. PLEASE AVOID THESE MOTORS unless you plan to take them apart, use full carbon brushes, and use a 2s LiPo. For the price/amount of work, there are better options.


To answer OP properly, there are several motors that can give you good torque in the hobby. The E-Flite Blade 180 (Mabuchi FK-180sh 3240 generic) are top of the line motors and will do everything you need them to. I know you want to avoid shell cutting, so the next ones are good options.

You can also look to several vendors for the MTB Rhino (FK Falcon clones) that also meet the needs. The Rhinos are the best bet to avoid shell cutting. Also take a look at what are deemed the Mieshel motors (look on reddit.com/r/nerf) for standard 130 sized motors.

Please note that these do require a good discharge battery in order to operate properly. Blades and Mieshels run great on a 2s 25-40 C LiPo. MTB's require a 3s 25-40 C LiPo. NOTE: LiPos are recommended, but NiMh or NiCd are acceptable as long as they have a good discharge rate.

Edited by Bryneverostasia, 09 November 2015 - 12:54 PM.

[Draconis]

At 9.6 volts the solarbotics gm2 motors are amazing but at 6 volts don't even bother

Can we please stop recommending the solarbotics rm-2 motors?

Well, at least one of you can't read. Possibly both. But neither of those solutions meet the criteria the OP was requesting.

[Felix the cat]

Dunno if I just got duds but I do not recommend tamiya torque tuned. Mine had orange end caps and could barely launch darts 20 feet on 4 alkaline AAs. Even two 14500 IMRs didn't help.

Edited by Felix the cat, 26 November 2015 - 04:42 PM.

[bex]

I use PN Racing 70 turn Mini-z 130 motors on a 7.4V Lipo. They have treated me well.

[Felix the cat]

MTB has a new 6v motor they have dubbed honey badgers. Just a thought

[xXD3V1LXx]

Apparently you can't read either rm2 and gm-2 are different



Well, at least one of you can't read. Possibly both. But neither of those solutions meet the criteria the OP was requesting.