8 replies to this topic

[Shadowslayer1924]

My Rapidstrike has basic mods (lock and motor resistance removed) and the FCG or the pusher won't let the shell close plz help and I will supply internal photos if need be
Off topic but what should I use as a motor replacement for the pusher because I'm running a lipo and the pusher motor is too weak and I would like minimal pusher cage modification
Thank you

[jwasko]

Internal photos would definitely help.

I'm guessing you have all stock motors in there now. What LiPo are you using? What do you mean the pusher is "too weak"? I'm wondering if there is some issue with either the motor or the wiring.

This motor can be used to swap all three motors. I don't think it requires any cage modification, but it does need a 3S LiPo. A 3S LiPo will probably burn out stock motors quickly, so you would likely have to change all 3 motors.

Edited by jwasko, 29 October 2015 - 09:22 AM.

[Shadowslayer1924]

Ok thank you and I'm using a 3s Lipo with 2200 mah and which motors?

[Shadowslayer1924]

By too weak I mean that it will burn out extremely quick and what motors? what do you want as far as internal pics go and can I use the make test battle rhino 130s or should I go with something else and my wiring is probably messed up but I don't think that's why ( me being stupid did my fist flywheel mod on a rapidstrike I dum) anyway thank you for your help

Edited by Shadowslayer1924, 29 October 2015 - 09:08 PM.

[Brimstone Omega]

what motors? what do you want as far as internal pics go

The underscored THIS in his post is actually a clickable link that will take you to the purchase page of the motors he is talking about, and as to what pictures you may want to supply, I would take a shot of the blaster with the offending parts in place as you have it, as well as an image of what lies beneath. With out those points of reference we can't really give any ideas/recommendations as to go about alleviating your issue.

My first blind guess though would be that you probably routed the wiring wrong, i.e. it's passing underneath the pusher mech and causing it to protrude a bit from the blaster. You're going to want to make sure all the wires run AROUND the mech, none of them should lie under it. If that isn't the problem you may want to just check to see that none of the points where the screw posts or stabilization posts have the trigger mech or the pusher mech riding on top instead of properly seated on the posts. Other than that, check to make sure that everything is in the right place and pushed in, close the shell slowly and watch for the offending area to see where you are getting caught up.

[Shadowslayer1924]

The underscored THIS in his post is actually a clickable link that will take you to the purchase page of the motors he is talking about, and as to what pictures you may want to supply, I would take a shot of the blaster with the offending parts in place as you have it, as well as an image of what lies beneath. With out those points of reference we can't really give any ideas/recommendations as to go about alleviating your issue.

My first blind guess though would be that you probably routed the wiring wrong, i.e. it's passing underneath the pusher mech and causing it to protrude a bit from the blaster. You're going to want to make sure all the wires run AROUND the mech, none of them should lie under it. If that isn't the problem you may want to just check to see that none of the points where the screw posts or stabilization posts have the trigger mech or the pusher mech riding on top instead of properly seated on the posts. Other than that, check to make sure that everything is in the right place and pushed in, close the shell slowly and watch for the offending area to see where you are getting caught up.

Ok I will get the motors and should I replace them all or just the pusher and I might have routed the wiring wrong and I will supply the picture as soon as possible and my wiring is kinda ghetto I didn't even insulate any thing but thank you

Edited by Shadowslayer1924, 30 October 2015 - 07:41 AM.

[jwasko]

Ok I will get the motors and should I replace them all or just the pusher and I might have routed the wiring wrong and I will supply the picture as soon as possible and my wiring is kinda ghetto I didn't even insulate any thing but thank you

You should really insulate everything (at this point, even just some electrical tape would be better than nothing) before you get a short and your LiPo bursts into flames and catches your blaster, you, and/or your house on fire.

As I stated in my first post, 3S tends to kill stock motors quickly but it will be prefect for MTB Rhino motors. If you are going to bother swapping one motor, you might as well swap all three.

If you don't feel like swapping all three right now, I would buy at least 3 motors so you don't have to pay shipping a second time when your stock flywheel motors burn out down the road.

And in case you didn't realize, my link was to MTB Rhino motors. Containment Crew is one of their distributors.

Edited by jwasko, 30 October 2015 - 10:09 AM.

[Shadowslayer1924]

You should really insulate everything (at this point, even just some electrical tape would be better than nothing) before you get a short and your LiPo bursts into flames and catches your blaster, you, and/or your house on fire.

As I stated in my first post, 3S tends to kill stock motors quickly but it will be prefect for MTB Rhino motors. If you are going to bother swapping one motor, you might as well swap all three.

If you don't feel like swapping all three right now, I would buy at least 3 motors so you don't have to pay shipping a second time when your stock flywheel motors burn out down the road.

And in case you didn't realize, my link was to MTB Rhino motors. Containment Crew is one of their distributors.

Ok and I actually got some heat shrink so I it's now insulated and here are the internal pics

Edited by Shadowslayer1924, 30 October 2015 - 09:32 PM.

[Shadowslayer1924]

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