9 replies to this topic

[Deathless]

I'm working on a commission for a friend and they were a little specific as to what they wanted. They requested a performance upgrade above stock (range/fps/dps). However They do not want to have to use any specialty batteries/charger as they will only be using the blaster occasionally as a cosplay prop.
I was thinking about just using a AA battery tray, either 6 or 8 cell(alkaline) to increase the voltage. Now I was wondering if this specific power source requires removal of the thermistor, removal of the motor pcb or motor rewire. I was just hoping to use the stock wiring in the rest of the blaster (apart from removal of the locks).

I'm somewhat new to internal modding of nerf flywheel blasters so any constructive advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Birch]

Yea, just put an 8 AA battery tray in the normal battery slot. It ups voltage a bit, but it gives so much more current than trustfires.

[Lunas]

Yea, just put an 8 AA battery tray in the normal battery slot. It ups voltage a bit, but it gives so much more current than trustfires.

he may wish to go with a 6 battery tray 12v will probably trip the thermistor... 9v will give it some punch not burn the motors as fast but using alkaline or NiMH will have a shorter run time than Lipo or li-mn

i run with 2 IMR 18650 if i was doing it over i would probably still go that route. But 26650 would fit in the tray too you just need to put a 1 inch spacer on the batteries. The charger is not that special a nitecore d4 and it will charge any li-ion and NiMH and NiCd and LiFePSO4

[Heatblast016]

I'm working on a commission for a friend and they were a little specific as to what they wanted. They requested a performance upgrade above stock (range/fps/dps). However They do not want to have to use any specialty batteries/charger as they will only be using the blaster occasionally as a cosplay prop.
I was thinking about just using a AA battery tray, either 6 or 8 cell(alkaline) to increase the voltage. Now I was wondering if this specific power source requires removal of the thermistor, removal of the motor pcb or motor rewire. I was just hoping to use the stock wiring in the rest of the blaster (apart from removal of the locks).

I'm somewhat new to internal modding of nerf flywheel blasters so any constructive advice would be greatly appreciated.

use a 9v battery- I don't think it will trip the thermistor as 6 AA batteries will have the same effect

Edited by Heatblast016, 13 October 2015 - 05:01 PM.

[Deathless]

use a 9v battery- I don't think it will trip the thermistor as 6 AA batteries will have the same effect

I'll try the 9v. Seems like the most painless way to go about these internals.

[Heatblast016]

I'll try the 9v. Seems like the most painless way to go about these internals.

Post the results when u r done

Edited by Heatblast016, 15 October 2015 - 07:34 PM.

[SolarFusion]

Do not use a 9V battery. It cannot supply as much amperage or last long enough to be efficient. Use instead the AA battery tray as previously suggested.



This is what you find in most 9v batteries, not good. A 9v is perfectly adequate for purposes such as running LEDs, but NOT for providing the power that blaster motors need to function.

Edited by SolarFusion, 17 October 2015 - 10:17 AM.

[Lunas]

Do not use a 9V battery. It cannot supply as much amperage or last long enough to be efficient. Use instead the AA battery tray as previously suggested.



This is what you find in most 9v batteries, not good. A 9v is perfectly adequate for purposes such as running LEDs, but NOT for providing the power that blaster motors need to function.

hypothetically if it was only the pusher it would be fine but yes drop any notion of using a 9v. If you put a 6AA snap box in though you can toss 6 NiMH in and those are good for around 5 Amps unless you pick up a pack those can be good for much much more. A single 9 volt will make the motors sound unruly but they will bog and jam easier if you stick 2 26650 in the stock tray and put some sort of spacer in it should only need 1 inch mod done.

http://www.amazon.co...p_prd_ttl_sol_7

just need something just wide enough to fill in on either end it would be about 1 inch the gun itself can be left unmodded...

charge it

Edited by Lunas, 18 October 2015 - 04:46 PM.

[Deathless]

I tried 9v, 6 AA's, and 8 AA's, and just wasn't confortable with any of these setups. So I ended up lending him 2 imr (14500) for the power supply in the stock battery tray, couldn't find any dummy batteries on such short notice, so I gator clipped the +/- on the adjacent side. worked well enough. for the one night.
Also did a mega magnus integration with a recon barrel, and a matte black paintjob, leaving all the moving parts orange (jam door, triggers, stock extension, etc). I'll post some pics in the coming days as now its mine again and I will be selling it. Or making a rapidpistol out of it with rhino 130's.

[Brimstone Omega]

Yeah, AA batteries do not work well in the Rapidstrike at all. I found that out the hard way, no current to speak of, so feeding three electron hungry motors is a no go on the RS. I put 7 in a Rayven and got great results, I think it's the fact of the three motors in a RS that give such poor performance.