1 reply to this topic

[Hionimi]

An idea that popped to mind, I see a fair share of topics discussing what motors work, but with the stock switches being rated only up to 2 Amps, it actually seems more of a hassle to find switches that can be fitted that allow more Amps than finding motors.

So, my proposal is a topic in which people can state what switches they've been able to fit in their Flywheel type Blaster, if I may be so free to do so. I do not have any myself and am still looking also. There's a lot of switches out there and the majority in the webstores in my country seem to come from the brand Cherry, but there are so many types, sizes, Amps allowed and voltage ratings that's it a bit of a gamble for me which to take at this point.

So I'll ask in this post as well if some of these readings are important or if some are perhaps negligible perhaps.

Taking an example switch, they have a few specifications, there are some that confuse me, like switching current inductive (in this case it reads 1.5 Amps, while the maximum is 10 Amps, would 1.5 be a minimum requirement for it to work?) and switch position. (Stating in the example switch that it's on/on, I assume that means that there are three contact and that both can give an on state, but one can be treated as off by simply not soldering a wire to it, correct?) Lastly, it seems none of the switches above 2 Amps are rated for as low as 12 Volts, but immediately bump up to 250 Volts, would they still work at lower voltages? I assume they do as I wouldn't see why they wouldn't still conduct electricity.

Anyway, I hope to find out more about switches and what to look for when searching for a suitable one, but at the same time to perhaps start a topic as an info source for other people looking for switches to get an idea what switches are known to work well and perhaps the easiest to fit. (As far as I'm aware there are no aftermarket switches that fit into the original mounting spot of the stock switches.)

Should people have additions for here, would they also please state in which blaster it was used, and optionally what function the switch has if not a motor spin-up switch and how difficult it was to fit it in?

[Draconis]

aking an example switch, they have a few specifications, there are some that confuse me, like switching current inductive (in this case it reads 1.5 Amps, while the maximum is 10 Amps, would 1.5 be a minimum requirement for it to work?) and switch position. (Stating in the example switch that it's on/on, I assume that means that there are three contact and that both can give an on state, but one can be treated as off by simply not soldering a wire to it, correct?) Lastly, it seems none of the switches above 2 Amps are rated for as low as 12 Volts, but immediately bump up to 250 Volts, would they still work at lower voltages? I assume they do as I wouldn't see why they wouldn't still conduct electricity.

Yes, as a rule of thumb, components that are rated for a higher voltage will work fine at lower with no ill effects. This includes switches for certain, though any active components, such as relays or transistors will have a minimum activation potential as well.

Anyway, I hope to find out more about switches and what to look for when searching for a suitable one, but at the same time to perhaps start a topic as an info source for other people looking for switches to get an idea what switches are known to work well and perhaps the easiest to fit. (As far as I'm aware there are no aftermarket switches that fit into the original mounting spot of the stock switches.)

Yeah, as far as I know, nobody has found the tiny switches that Hasbro uses in higher capacity versions. Almost everyone is using standard microswitches, which pretty much all have the same dimensions and mounting points. This is an example, though I don't see any real reason to use anything but the normal switch. The lever/roller types just take up more space, and you don't really need the mechanical advantage.




With a little cutting, I was able to fit a 10Amp unit in to my son's Demolisher with no trouble. If you remove the lock in that location, it can be directly actuated by the original trigger and feels just like the original.

Edited by Draconis, 20 July 2015 - 01:49 PM.