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X-bow Finished..

some problems.

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#26 ItalionStallion

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 02:23 PM

So should i cut down the petg barell a bit? Or should i just toally remove it and replace it with PVC.

I dont have the money or time to go order some brass, so thats kinda out of the picture.
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#27 Jlego

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 02:32 PM

Is it just me, or in the pics is your plunger tube way the fuck forwards?
If that's where it is in the gun when you put it back together, I think that could be your problem.
When I modded mine, the very back of the yellow tube fit snugly, just in front of the catch mech. Against the re-enforced wall that holds the spring, see rayway's pics in the mod (on this site).
Hope that helps, but if not Iím just making an observation, so don't flame, thanks
-Jlego
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#28 NinjZ

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 02:45 PM

How long is your friggen barrel? Its probably because its way too long. I started with a 10" cpvc barrel and I would only get 50'. I trimmed it to 8" and getting 100' max, so it may be your barrel length. Try 8".

EDIT: NVM I just re-read your other post. Still try 8" though.

Edited by NinjZ, 27 July 2004 - 02:47 PM.

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#29 leftnut

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 02:48 PM

How long is your friggen barrel? Its probably because its way too long. I started with a 10" cpvc barrel and I would only get 50'. I trimmed it to 8" and getting 100' max, so it may be your barrel length. Try 8".

EDIT: NVM I just re-read your other post. Still try 8" though.

He said about 9inches and I was wondering is the DT3 spring better then the Xbow?
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#30 NinjZ

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 02:51 PM

Yes ist better. To me they seem the same except the DT3 spring is longer.
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#31 Groove

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 04:20 PM

See, I went through this process about a year ago with my Xbow. If you're going to do it right, you might as well do it right the first time so you don't end up going back 10 times fixing your Xbow. That's my mentality about mods now - and it should really apply to modding an Xbow. Because at that point, who knows how much of your Xbow is going to actually be left to mod. You savvy?

Like Cx said, you're better off just ordering some brass, getting some 1/2" FBR and making some micros. The more you fiddle with it and alter it, the more tempermental your gun is going to become in the long run...
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#32 rawray7

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Posted 28 July 2004 - 07:37 PM

here comes the self-proclaimed lord of the x-bow:

okay, you've got two problems that i've fixed plenty of times:

1: as everyone has already said, your barrel choice sucks. okay, i'm going to save myself the typing of this and quote my own mod at the end of this, but here's the highlights: a crossbow barrel needs to be at least 10 inches long, the air release mechanism is one of the slowest of any nerf gun. the first section needs to be a very tight squeeze for your darts...you need all of that air in the chamber to get behind it. then you have a section where the dart can "glide", which means you can blow it out, but it shouldn't fall out on its own. then i have about 1.5" of sch. 80 at the end to let some of the air go around, to prevent fishtailing. here's the quote from my mod on this site:

Your gun is now ready, but you'll need a barrel. Because of the 1/2" coupler, you'll be able to put on any variety of barrels via 1/2" PVC. The barrel that I chose to use, because it suits my darts the best is a 3 sectioned telescoping brass barrel. To make the barrel, take 10" of 1/2" sch. 80 PVC, place inside of that 12" of 9/16" inch brass. The brass should stick 3 inches out of the back (the distance from coupler to coupler, not a coincidence) inside of the 12" brass section is a 6" piece of 17/32" brass. This should stick out the back of the 9/16" about 1/8" of an inch, as little as possible.


2: the underpowering is also due to your plunger head's fit in the yellow tube. the heads tend to be too small, what you need to do is wrap masking tape around the large rubber plunger head until you have to jam it down the yellow tube. it should not move past the beggining of the taper at the end. now, what you do is add graphite lubricant (don't use anything gel or liquid) to the inside of your plunger tube (the yellow thing). put it together, after 2 shots or so it will stop feeling "slow" (unless of course you put way too much masking tape on) and it will greatly increase the range. my crossbow went from 45' to 90' by adding three layers of masking tape at the last SoCal war.

if you have questions: first read my mod...then reply.
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#33 ItalionStallion

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Posted 28 July 2004 - 11:04 PM

OK, so i need to wrap masking tape around the plunger head?

Im gonna try that tommorow, and if that doesn't work im gonna just re-do the barell with PVC.
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#34 ShortShit

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 12:57 AM

so you have mega darts and micro darts? Megas in PVC is the old school Xbow way, and is highly functional, no matter what Kevin tells ya! :D
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#35 ItalionStallion

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 01:18 AM

Uhh i've got micros. And as far as i know my PVC shoots micros as well.
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#36 Vintage

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 07:46 AM

I've always wondered what you mean by 'wrapping masking tape around the plunger head.' Are you actually putting the tape around the whole head? Or just around the inner ring to push out the outer rubber?

~Vintage
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#37 rawray7

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 11:07 AM

I've always wondered what you mean by 'wrapping masking tape around the plunger head.' Are you actually putting the tape around the whole head? Or just around the inner ring to push out the outer rubber?

~Vintage

no, the tape actually goes around the circumference of the rubber plunger. if you think about the rubber plunger as a cup with a hole in the middle: the masking tape lines up flush with the base of the cup, and is wrapped around the circumference of the cup. so, the "bottom" of the cup, (or the back wall of your plunger head) doesn't have any tape on it. the tape widens the radius of the plunger head by being wrapped around it. there will be tape that hangs over the lip of the cup; depending on the width of your tape (i use about .75" width tape) you can cut the tape that protrudes past the top of the cup, or you can fold that excess into the middle of the cup, which is what i usually do.

in conclusion, the tape doesn't push anything out, it actually becomes the contact surface between the rubber plunger head and the inner part of the plunger tube.
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#38 Vintage

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 11:17 AM

I understand now. So the plunger seal is now made between the tape and the tube instead of the rubber and the tube. Nice, but is masking tape the best tape for the job?

~Vintage
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#39 FIDO

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 11:27 AM

Nice, but is masking tape the best tape for the job?

Yes, because it has the least friction than all the other tapes.
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#40 NinjZ

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 11:28 AM

NO, For the X-bow I used Ducttape. I made like sheets of it by putting two peaces together. Then cutting out circles and sticking the to the rubber on the plunger.

EDIT: It may have the least friction but that shit doesnt hold....You dont wanna put THAT much tape on anyways that it will severely keep the plunger from sliding in the tube. Plus if you have bands or a bungee it wont matter.

Edited by NinjZ, 29 July 2004 - 11:31 AM.

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#41 ompa

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 01:31 PM

*cough* DT3 plunger *cough*

Works just as well as the masking tape thing, if not better.

~ompa
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#42 NinjZ

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 04:40 PM

Theirs even room for improvemeant on the DT3 plunger head....
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#43 ItalionStallion

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 05:32 PM

I've got access to a DT3, should i just switch it?

I switched the springs and it actually made my DT3 better..
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#44 rawray7

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 11:55 PM

NO, For the X-bow I used Ducttape. I made like sheets of it by putting two peaces together. Then cutting out circles and sticking the to the rubber on the plunger.

EDIT: It may have the least friction but that shit doesnt hold....You dont wanna put THAT much tape on anyways that it will severely keep the plunger from sliding in the tube. Plus if you have bands or a bungee it wont matter.

hmm...i disagree. i've never had a problem with the masking tape falling off. the two reasons i picked masking tape:
1) it doesn't leave that goo behind like duct tape.
2) it has a smooth outer surface, and slides extremely well with graphite lubricant.


i've never tried a DT3 spring, but i'll tell you the original spring with bands is not too horrible. i can hit people level from 85' any day of the week, and i'm not talking about lobbing one onto their toes.
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#45 NinjZ

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Posted 30 July 2004 - 02:25 PM

Theirs a type of ductape that has a smoother top surface. What goo? I dont have any problems with the adhesive on the back.
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#46 Alexthebeast

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Posted 31 July 2004 - 12:30 AM

Anyone at DDGA or UMNO can vouch, my Xbow is badass. BnA Spring, Electrical tape(!!!) Around the plunger, painted drab green. I pick people off from 80' frequently, and if they aren't moving, I can get em as high as 110'.

Electrical tape is the best in my opinion. It sticks better than m-tape, no leftover residue like d-tape, and it molds.
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#47 rawray7

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Posted 31 July 2004 - 08:44 PM

Theirs a type of ductape that has a smoother top surface. What goo? I dont have any problems with the adhesive on the back.

mod a gun with ducttape, play with that gun for a month or so (preferably in a warm climate, like southern california), when the gun breaks, remove the ductape. then you will see the "goo" i refer to. pain in the ass to get off just about anything.
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