16 replies to this topic

[steve4835]

I'm looking for info on making a barrel extension for my stryfe. Emphasis on 'making'. I don't wanna buy any nerf crap. I could care less about aesthetics, idc if it looks ugly as sin. I want increased accuracy. I know I'll get a range reduction, but as long as it isn't too bad, I don't mind. I will be running a 4S, so I'll have FPS to burn. Might have to tone it down anyway so the HVZ mod will pass off on it. Yah, only one mod, Humans vs Zombies is still only a dozen or so strong at LSU. Trying to change that, without much luck.

What's your suggestions? How long, what diameter, etc. Would pvc work well? Thanks!

[ultranewt]

I have not tested the accuracy or fps involved, but somewhere I read about using 9/16 brass to guide darts through the flywheels and stabilize them further afterwards. If you have the means to pull it off that may be a good route to go. If you want to use pvc instead that should work fine. Just make sure its a larger inner diameter than the barrel preceding it, to ensure your darts don't get stuck within. Length should probably be somewhere between 6 & 14 inches.

Edited by ultranewt, 16 April 2015 - 02:16 PM.

[steve4835]

I have not tested the accuracy or fps involved, but somewhere I read about using 9/16 brass to guide darts through the flywheels and stabilize them further afterwards. If you have the means to pull it off that may be a good route to go. If you want to use pvc instead that should work fine. Just make sure its a larger inner diameter than the barrel preceding it, to ensure your darts don't get stuck within.

I remember reading something about that too, in a comment on the nerf flywheelers fb page. I think he also mentioned flaring the breech (or whatever that end is called in a nerf blaster)

How do you mean, using brass tubing to guide the darts through the flywheels?

[ultranewt]

I remember reading something about that too, in a comment on the nerf flywheelers fb page. I think he also mentioned flaring the breech (or whatever that end is called in a nerf blaster)

How do you mean, using brass tubing to guide the darts through the flywheels?

The brass is cut in a way that allows it to pass through the flywheel housing without interfering with the moving parts. as seen in this video

[steve4835]

How did he get it cut to fit so nicely around the flywheels? What tool(s) would he have used for that

[ultranewt]

How did he get it cut to fit so nicely around the flywheels? What tool(s) would he have used for that

It's almost certainly done with a dremel or similar rotary tool, using a cut-off wheel and sanding drum. Though the same result could be achieved with a jeweler's saw and sandpaper.

[steve4835]

Also what exactly is the "stovepipe jam" that people keep mentioning?

[Duke Wintermaul]

Brass Stryfe is a terrible idea, it adds so much friction on the darts.



If you want accuracy in flywheels you need to get kewsh darts. Period.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item27e2838d13

/end thread

[Aeromech]

If you want a "barrel shroud" 1-1/4" PVC fits just perfectly around the front of the barrel attachment bushing on the front af the stryfe, and can be attached with one or two short screws.

Shamless video plug.

[meishel]

You're going to be hard pressed to increase the accuracy of a flywheel blaster via lengthening barrel. Adding a barrel of any kind will suck away velocity and have either no effect, or a negative effect on accuracy. There's some thought that rifled barrels might help, but most disagree with that train of thought. I've done some testing into rifled barrels, and the findings were inconclusive. I plan to design a better test to prove exactly what effect it has.

[Birch]

Brass Stryfe is a terrible idea, it adds so much friction on the darts.

While I do agree with you that a brass barrel will add extra friction, I think that your setup imparted way to much unnecessary friction. I have yet to try this but I would imagine that a shorter barrel would add extra accuracy without as much range decrease.

[jwasko]

If you want a "barrel shroud" 1-1/4" PVC fits just perfectly around the front of the barrel attachment bushing on the front af the stryfe, and can be attached with one or two short screws.

Shamless video plug.

Also, 3/4" SDR21 PVC fits in the the attachment bushing.
Details: http://torukmakto4.b...etal-build.html

You might need to use adhesive for that, though.

Edited by jwasko, 16 April 2015 - 08:23 PM.

[Duke Wintermaul]

While I do agree with you that a brass barrel will add extra friction, I think that your setup imparted way to much unnecessary friction. I have yet to try this but I would imagine that a shorter barrel would add extra accuracy without as much range decrease.

I did these videos the week Containment Crew uploaded his.

All my brass was internally polished, as well as beveled inside the magwell for feeding.

He never came back with his promised formal testing, so I did it for him.

Although the goal was to measure accuracy and precision, like I tried to do with the shitty fence and cardboard, I also took chronograph readings. Long brass stryfe was ~80fps, short barrel ~95fps, No barrel 123.7fps. Any effect you see on accuracy and precision is due to decreased muzzle velocities taking the Elite dart back into an operable speed.

The simple fix is to use koosh darts, watching the video you can clearly see a much tighter grouping of the green koosh darts, even though most of them went high and right over the fence. I also had to get closer to the target by 20ft with the brass stryfe to even collect any kind of data at all, which skews the results.

Kewsh is love, Kewsh is life.

Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 16 April 2015 - 08:51 PM.

[steve4835]

I'm going to try the koosh darts first, and then do a barrel extension, maybe. Also I still don't know what a stovepipe jam is

[Birch]

I did these videos the week Containment Crew uploaded his.

All my brass was internally polished, as well as beveled inside the magwell for feeding.

He never came back with his promised formal testing, so I did it for him.

Although the goal was to measure accuracy and precision, like I tried to do with the shitty fence and cardboard, I also took chronograph readings. Long brass stryfe was ~80fps, short barrel ~95fps, No barrel 123.7fps. Any effect you see on accuracy and precision is due to decreased muzzle velocities taking the Elite dart back into an operable speed.

The simple fix is to use koosh darts, watching the video you can clearly see a much tighter grouping of the green koosh darts, even though most of them went high and right over the fence. I also had to get closer to the target by 20ft with the brass stryfe to even collect any kind of data at all, which skews the results.

Kewsh is love, Kewsh is life.

Thanks for the data.

As for the koosh I have bought some and I love them, but I found these darts to work just good if not even better. The foam is pretty fat, about as fat as the fatter beige hot rod xl foam. This is actually a great thing because it means the flywheels grip the dart much better. In addition, the foam is consistent, and so is the head to foam connection. These darts are also mad cheap. 20 bucks plus 5 for shipping?!?! From China?!?!

[jwasko]

I still don't know what a stovepipe jam is

When the dart misses the entrance to the flywheels; usually the front tip points "up" towards the jam door.

Basically as seen in the first images here:
https://www.google.c...BQQsAQ&tbm=isch

Edited by jwasko, 17 April 2015 - 11:20 AM.

[steve4835]

I might brass the barrel and cut it so it feeds through the flywheels, but doesn't extend past the stock muzzle. If it improves accuracy, great. If not, at least it should at least make it feed more reliably. I place a huge value on reliability, since I use my blasters in HvZ. If I'm staring at a zed 5 feet away from me, I want my blaster to fire a dart when I pull the trigger, no if's, ands, or buts. And 5 feet away, accuracy doesn't matter much anyway. Yesterday afternoon my maverick was being stupid on our escort mission, so I stowed it and went sock ninja, and once I did that, I did pretty well. If a blaster isn't at least, say, 95% reliable, I'm going to be very reluctant to use it. Socks aren't, strictly speaking, blasters, but whatever they are or aren't, they never jam.

I've decided I'm going to be sock ninja the majority of the time, and only break out the Stryfe on missions and/or when I'm expecting to have to deal with a horde.