12 replies to this topic

[steve4835]

I finally got my Stryfe mod done. I had to redo everything after I pushed the flywheels down too far and ruined the motors and flywheels and flywheel cage, but I learned from my mistake and it works now. I upgraded the switch, the wiring, added a pair of Mabuchi FK-180SH-3240 motors, and added a 7.4V 4000mAh LiPo. Is 4000mAh overkill?? Probably, but it's not worth the trouble to try to return it and I can't afford another battery.

There's not a huge increase in muzzle velocity, which I am fine with. In fact, I prefer it. Because before this, I used an OMW mod kit on my Strongarm, and at first I loved it. There was a very noticeable increase in power. But the thing is, the first times I tried it after modding were in my dorm room. The door I was shooting at was maybe ten feet away. Then I tested it out in a hallway. The accuracy (or lack thereof) was appalling. I couldn't hardly hit a normal size door from 30 feet away, the darts were corkscrewing that badly. So, in my opinion, unless you just want to hurt people with the darts at close range, or if you only want the intimidation factor of an insanely powerful blaster but don't actually care about being able to hit a target, increases in range and velocity are useless if they come at the expense of accuracy. I know it's a design issue with the darts and not the OMW kit or the Strongarm, but still.

I sorta fixed the Strongarm issue by slicing open the air hole on the dart heads and putting steel bb's into the hollow section. It slows the darts down and improves the accuracy a lot. And they don't seem to hurt any more than the regular darts + the modded Strongarm. Although I'm not really sure how it's better than using stock darts with a stock Strongarm. Maybe I just went full circle.

I got off topic there. Anyway, the main thing I got out of modding it is that with the heavier wire and better current capacity from the LiPo, I can now fire it as fast as I can pull the trigger, without the flywheel motors bogging down. I know I could get faster RoF with a modded RS but I don't really think I need that for HVZ, which is all I intend to use it for.

Here's pictures:
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Nothing fancy or innovative, but I do feel proud of having tackled my first flywheel mod.

[ravetrooper]

Sounds like you went all out on your first mod, glad to know it works well for you! That's awesome! Stop using elite darts btw they suck There are plenty of dart options available to the HVZer that render elites pointless (I can only think of two). Suction cup and koosh darts won't corkscrew like that at higher velocities so you can really crank up the fps.

Edited by ravetrooper, 10 April 2015 - 10:17 AM.

[steve4835]

Sounds like you went all out on your first mod, glad to know it works well for you! That's awesome! Stop using elite darts btw they suck There are plenty of dart options available to the HVZer that render elites pointless (I can only think of two). Suction cup and koosh darts won't corkscrew like that at higher velocities so you can really crank up the fps.

Thanks for the advice! But where do I find koosh darts? Google and ebay both failed me :/

edit - Never mind, I found them. They just aren't called koosh darts on ebay

Edited by steve4835, 10 April 2015 - 11:12 AM.

[steve4835]

Sounds like you went all out on your first mod, glad to know it works well for you! That's awesome! Stop using elite darts btw they suck There are plenty of dart options available to the HVZer that render elites pointless (I can only think of two). Suction cup and koosh darts won't corkscrew like that at higher velocities so you can really crank up the fps.

Is it the hole on the side of the dart head that screws with the aerodynamics and makes it corkscrew? Or is it something more

[tomorrowsDarkness]

Is it the hole on the side of the dart head that screws with the aerodynamics and makes it corkscrew? Or is it something more

It's just the hole. If that wasn't there, they'd hurt more on impact but would also not spiral out of control.

[steve4835]

I'm considering going to a 3S LiPo. The motors I'm using are Mabuchi FK180SH-3240's. Has anyone had any trouble with them failing prematurely at 12v? The way my mod is, I cannot replace the motors if they burn out. The motor cover is superglued on, and the motors are glued into the cage, b/c they kept backing out

[Duke Wintermaul]

This thread is full of fail.

The head hole has nothing to do with flight stability, they fishtail and dive simply because of their center of gravity, low mass, and the muzzle velocities people are trying to make them go. Let me hit you with some knowledge.

I would recommend Kewsh darts for any Nerfer who uses flywheels. Their patented head design creates a drag vortex to stabilize the projectile at high (120+fps) velocities.

As far as the Stryfe mod goes, it looks like it works. Your high amplitude battery is unnecessarily large, some small 3s LiPo cells can actually fit in your battery tray. IIRC the Zippy Compact fits.

Not a fan of the 3D printed covers, I always just hotglue some Vortex Disc's over the holes. Keeping all the wiring internal is a MUST for future projects.

No idea how you had so much trouble getting the motors to stay into the cage. I've found that leaving the stock plastic tightening rings on the inside of the cage intact instead of dremeling them out works best, simply leverage the motors in with some NNpliers.

Great job completing your first foray into flywheels, I'm glad you're happy with the results. I'm sure they'll be more to come that will surprise even you.

[steve4835]

This thread is full of fail.

The head hole has nothing to do with flight stability, they fishtail and dive simply because of their center of gravity, low mass, and the muzzle velocities people are trying to make them go. Let me hit you with some knowledge.

I would recommend Kewsh darts for any Nerfer who uses flywheels. Their patented head design creates a drag vortex to stabilize the projectile at high (120+fps) velocities.

As far as the Stryfe mod goes, it looks like it works. Your high amplitude battery is unnecessarily large, some small 3s LiPo cells can actually fit in your battery tray. IIRC the Zippy Compact fits.

Not a fan of the 3D printed covers, I always just hotglue some Vortex Disc's over the holes. Keeping all the wiring internal is a MUST for future projects.

No idea how you had so much trouble getting the motors to stay into the cage. I've found that leaving the stock plastic tightening rings on the inside of the cage intact instead of dremeling them out works best, simply leverage the motors in with some NNpliers.

Great job completing your first foray into flywheels, I'm glad you're happy with the results. I'm sure they'll be more to come that will surprise even you.

I will certainly keep all that in mind on my next mod. But it doesn't answer my question. Will I damage the motors with a 3S lipo?

[Duke Wintermaul]

Nope.

I run my system on 4s and average 123.7feetpersecond muzzle velocities.

For real get some Kewsh darts and revel in your new found accuracy.

[steve4835]

Nope.

I run my system on 4s and average 123.7feetpersecond muzzle velocities.

For real get some Kewsh darts and revel in your new found accuracy.

I'm broke as a college kid rn, but as soon as I get some cash I will. I need new darts anyway.

[steve4835]

Nope.

I run my system on 4s and average 123.7feetpersecond muzzle velocities.

For real get some Kewsh darts and revel in your new found accuracy.

You're running 3240's? I'd love to see a video of that in action!

[Duke Wintermaul]

https://www.youtube....dd4OROWNQ?rel=0

Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 14 April 2015 - 10:51 PM.

[steve4835]

https://www.youtube.com/embed/eBdd4OROWNQ?rel=0

People who claim flywheel blasters eliminate the possibility of a sneak attack obviously haven't seen what a lipo can do for the acceleration time.

I assume the long duty cycle (short bursts and long cooldown times) kinda compensates for the high voltages used in the motors, now that I think about it