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Non-spraypaints. What works well on plastics?


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#1 BlasterHacker

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 11:51 AM

So I'm ready to experiment in painting an old Mav shell this weekend with some plastics spraypaints I have around (Rustoleum, Krylon, and Valspar), but am not seeing clear info about what kinds of paints people use to brush (for battle damage, weathering, nuts + rivets, etc)

What TYPE of paints work well for handpainting plastics that need to resist wear. Acrylics? Modeling enamels? Oils? (Recommended brands would be helpful as well.) Thanks!
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#2 Quack

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 03:25 PM

Citidel paints work well.
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#3 blazenb

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 05:07 PM

Enamel is normally used for detailing not so much dry brushing if you want a good dry brushing paint go with citadel as Quack said
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#4 ravetrooper

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Posted 28 February 2015 - 12:26 PM

Citidel paints work well.


I've been thinking about getting into citadel paint. What are their shipping costs like?
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Gut the electronics, drill a hole in the shell, and attach a crank to the gear. Bam, crank-action stampede that doesn't require batteries, or even a trigger.

...(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community :lol: )


#5 Rex Theodore Bohannon III

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Posted 28 February 2015 - 11:12 PM

Tamiya Acrylic paints are pretty awesome. I also like Reaper and Vellejo model paints. Plus, all of them are better quality and less expensive than Citadel paints.
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#6 racer188

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 01:16 AM

I've been using craftsmart acrylic paints from Michaels. $0.69 for a variety of colors. The satin colors work well. They even have a glow in the dark one. Goes on well, water soluble, no fumes. Paints over Duplicolor Vinyl Dye well.

Link Here
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#7 BlasterHacker

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 09:06 AM

Holy hell racer188! $0.69 paints!?!? Yes please! And thanks for linking it up.

Mind if I ask what you use to seal acrylics for your blasters? I expect mine to continue to get heavy use, and don't know if I'll need a slightly different sealing coat for acrylics on plastic.
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#8 racer188

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 12:03 PM

Holy hell racer188! $0.69 paints!?!? Yes please! And thanks for linking it up.

Mind if I ask what you use to seal acrylics for your blasters? I expect mine to continue to get heavy use, and don't know if I'll need a slightly different sealing coat for acrylics on plastic.


No problem, having used a variety of paints when I was building model cars besides the expensive Tamiya ones, these have become a favorite due to cost, availability and color palette.

I actually haven't had the need to coat any of my blasters with a clear. However with my model cars I've always had success with the Krylon clears. If I had to do it now I'd go with this one.. Krylon They have Gloss, Satin and Flat.

I always went with the rule of thumb, always use the same type of clear as your paint. Like Enamel paint = enamel clear. Acrylic paint = acrylic clear. Lacquer paint = lacquer clear, etc.
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#9 BlasterHacker

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 12:58 PM

Good rule of thumb. Hmm, now to decide if I want to return/exchange these unopened clear/basecoats I have, or experiment on an old Mav.
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#10 ravetrooper

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 06:18 PM

... I always went with the rule of thumb, always use the same type of clear as your paint. Like Enamel paint = enamel clear. Acrylic paint = acrylic clear. Lacquer paint = lacquer clear, etc.


So what would the negative effects of applying enamel clear over the craftsmart acrylic paint be? I've been using Rustoleum Crystal Clear enamel for a while and I like it a lot. Never used Krylon.
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Gut the electronics, drill a hole in the shell, and attach a crank to the gear. Bam, crank-action stampede that doesn't require batteries, or even a trigger.

...(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community :lol: )


#11 racer188

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 09:51 PM

So what would the negative effects of applying enamel clear over the craftsmart acrylic paint be? I've been using Rustoleum Crystal Clear enamel for a while and I like it a lot. Never used Krylon.


I haven't cleared the craftsmart paint yet. It's been durable enough so far for me.

I've had other instance, with other paints where the clear would literally lift the paint up and shrivel it. Ended up being a clear coated dried desert look mess. I've also had instance where the paint on the painted model just literally soaked up the clear. Plastic got heavier but the clear never glossed up.

It's trial by error honestly. I've had more luck with the krylon stuff. I used to use another brand that was clear polyurethane. It was pretty universal but I cant find it anymore. The fumes were crazy though. Maybe that's why it's no longer sold at OSH.

Here is pic of a commission I am using the craftsmart paint on. Base coat is black duplicolor vinyl and brushed on color is Craftsmart Satin Khaki. Excuse the shiny parts, those are still wet.

Posted Image

Edited by racer188, 03 March 2015 - 10:23 PM.

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#12 ravetrooper

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 01:19 AM

I haven't cleared the craftsmart paint yet. It's been durable enough so far for me.

I've had other instance, with other paints where the clear would literally lift the paint up and shrivel it. Ended up being a clear coated dried desert look mess. I've also had instance where the paint on the painted model just literally soaked up the clear. Plastic got heavier but the clear never glossed up.

It's trial by error honestly. I've had more luck with the krylon stuff. I used to use another brand that was clear polyurethane. It was pretty universal but I cant find it anymore. The fumes were crazy though. Maybe that's why it's no longer sold at OSH.

Here is pic of a commission I am using the craftsmart paint on. Base coat is black duplicolor vinyl and brushed on color is Craftsmart Satin Khaki. Excuse the shiny parts, those are still wet.


Thanks! That looks really good! I'll have to try this. I've always been hesitant to put a brush to any of my blasters for fear of visible brush strokes. How do you all make it so smooth!?! :)
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Gut the electronics, drill a hole in the shell, and attach a crank to the gear. Bam, crank-action stampede that doesn't require batteries, or even a trigger.

...(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community :lol: )


#13 Birch

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 08:42 AM

I have found that you are best off having a vinyl dye undercoat with enamel details.
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#14 T3kn0Hazard

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 02:17 PM

I used testors enamel for all my detailing. They are about 1.79 in the model car section at michaels. And very seldom I'll use citadel. If you don't have the patience (like myself) to let each layer of paint dry for 30 min between coats then the citadel is tough, especially orange. I do have good luck with their blues and greens. As for dry brushing Just a metal c based acrylic of any sort.
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#15 BlasterHacker

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 11:11 PM

I used testors enamel for all my detailing. They are about 1.79 in the model car section at michaels. And very seldom I'll use citadel. If you don't have the patience (like myself) to let each layer of paint dry for 30 min between coats then the citadel is tough, especially orange. I do have good luck with their blues and greens. As for dry brushing Just a metal c based acrylic of any sort.


Do you also use vinyl dye as a successful base beneath both types of detail painting (with enamels and acrylics)?

And since it came up, do you seal them the same (enamels and acrylics)?
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#16 MasterousMods

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 08:56 PM

I have found that you are best off having a vinyl dye undercoat with enamel details.

Yes, that is the way to go.
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#17 NetherMax1

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Posted 16 January 2016 - 08:09 PM

Acrylics work great and you can find them cheap (79 cents for a decent sized tube) at Michael's.


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#18 Kilomona

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Posted 16 January 2016 - 08:41 PM


And since it came up, do you seal them the same (enamels and acrylics)?


Yes, enamels and acrylics are sealed the same way (assuming by seal you mean lacquer/clear coat). I find acrylics at walmart for 50 cents- 2 dollars for a little bottle, and they go a long way. Apple barrel and folk art are the brands I have used, and folk art gave me better results. Just thought I'd also say that I use rustoleum 2x matte clear coat.
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