Hi guys! I've been digging around trying to find the answer to this question and haven't had any luck. What are the specs on the switches inside of the electric nerf guns. Specifically, The current capacity of the momentary switches inside of the vulcan. I'm in the process of modding one and I need to know how much current these double pole single throw switches can handle without fusing together or arcing dangerously. I will be posting some really great info once I'm finished with this project.
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#2
meishel
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Posted 28 January 2015 - 01:21 AM
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I have no clue, but I did some digging, and I see some people have done some crazy mods to them without replacing that switch. I saw one person with a 33volt mod and they were using the stock switch. *shrug* If you're really worried about it, throw a beefier switch in there.
#3
KDiDP
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Posted 28 January 2015 - 03:19 AM
I feel like the stock switches should handle quite a bit of current knowing the voltages that people push through the original motors. unfortunately, nobody(as far as I've found) has actually measured the current those guns are drawing. In many motors, you end up pulling more current with LESS voltage, because the motor has to push harder to start moving. If anybody has done voltage mods and measured the current draw, your numbers would be greatly appreciated.
Part of my issue is finding an exact or very close to original design replacement switch. the trigger uses a momentary on switch to fire in full auto and there is almost no room to replace it with a different style switch.
Part of my issue is finding an exact or very close to original design replacement switch. the trigger uses a momentary on switch to fire in full auto and there is almost no room to replace it with a different style switch.
Edited by KDiDP, 28 January 2015 - 03:27 AM.
#4
Guest_TheSilverhead_*
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Posted 28 January 2015 - 11:43 AM
I did. 10 amps fries them. Remember, voltage isn't all of what kills. You can pump 125v and 2A through a radioshack switch- or 7.4v and 10A. I have a 1S 0.95 mAh 25C lipo and a couple of plasma dashes- stock switches died within 5 from-stall starts. Honestly, it's worth the $2 to just replace it with a good one for longevity. They physically suck- and are prone to falling apart, losing tabs, and having the contact slide out of line. I also ran some Extreme Pro 180's with as many amps as they wanted (~80 at stall. Eek.) Stock switch smoked instantly. Radioshack switch still going strong, rated 1A @ 125v.
Edited by TheSilverhead, 28 January 2015 - 11:45 AM.
#5
KDiDP
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Posted 29 January 2015 - 02:12 AM
Thanks for the info! So 10 amp will fry them. The info i got from searching around was that they are rated for 6 amp continuous current. I found a few switches that will probably fit and work with some kind of bracket made to accommodate them. Once I know which will work I'll post pics, specs and info.
edit/add: my mod project is a brushless dc motor swap and remaking some of the internal components with carbon fiber/kevlar composite materials. The motor is mounted perfectly in the internal frame but it can draw up to 12 amp continuous, so I want to make sure the wiring can deliver that much power.
edit/add: my mod project is a brushless dc motor swap and remaking some of the internal components with carbon fiber/kevlar composite materials. The motor is mounted perfectly in the internal frame but it can draw up to 12 amp continuous, so I want to make sure the wiring can deliver that much power.
Edited by KDiDP, 29 January 2015 - 02:16 AM.
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