12 replies to this topic

[Aeromech]

Preface

Running around in the woods at the most recent NJ Nerf Outing I noticed a pattern in my actions: Run up, dump a clip, run back, reload, repeat. This may be a problem inherent to my play style, but the problem encountered is the constant need to reload and the inability to do so quickly. This simple mod using materials most people already have attempts to solve the problem. Inspired by the hopper/magazine system used on the Madsen LMG.

Sort-of-Writeup


A few of you master builders probably already see how this works. For everybody else, here's the low down.


Take your desired length(s) of 1/2 PVC and cap them off. You can even use the usual ball valve set up if you like carrying heavy things in your pocket.


This is a piece of plastic milk carton (Canadians be jealous, eh?) Cut a strip out maybe nine inches and fold over the last few inches. This increases rigidity. Fold that portion in half to make a 45 degree bend inward, as shown.


Tape it to the end of your clip so the bent tooth blocks off the "exit" of the clip. The extra few inches of non-taped area allow the plastic arm to flex. These next super erotic photos will explain the function.


When at rest, the plastic arm holds the darts in place inside the clip.


Upon initial entry, the arm is pushed aside by the PVC wye.


When the clip is fully inserted, the arm is pushed all the way to the outside of the wye, and the darts flow freely.


Here it is on a rainbowpump. The black/gray stuff on top is skateboard tape. You're gonna have to twist these off when your done, so I find it gives you extra grip. Plus I already skate so it was within arms' length of my bench. You can see it on the rainbowpump as well.

Results
I have not war tested this, so I don't want to be overly confident about this. But it works just as well as any other hopper and the darts do not shake out. Plus these are easy as hell to make. Took me like two minutes. And now, as suggested before, you can easily carry like five of these in a pouch or cargo pocket. Hell, you can probably make these snap into PVC couplers cut in half and carry them Mass Effect style.



Rip me apart, boys and girls.

Edited by Aeromech, 22 June 2014 - 02:28 PM.

[F1Nerf]

Interesting idea. I like it.

[father time]

I like it, I was going to do this with my RSCBs, but got distracted(also I was just using bottle caps on both ends, your idea is much quicker)And I won't even hold the fact that you're a skater against you...lol Nice work.

[Nerf Gra]

Interesting idea. I like it.

+1

I feel like there is some possibility of the darts bouncing out from the barrels getting knocked around in a pocket and or being drawn fromnl said pocket.

It would also be interesting to know if the darts stay in better when the clips are facing up as opposed to down.

I know no one likes dead space but if you cut your PVC to be about half a dart longer than fully loaded and the open end was facing up then the darts wouldn't be all the way at the top and there for less likely to fall out.

[Bchamp22795]

If this works as advertised, it would be perfect. I'd like to see a video reloading and shooting and reloading and shooting through a few hopper clips and see how fast you could do it, or if it would jam if done quickly, or if darts are able to come free.

Even if one isn't able to reload as fast as an n-strike clip, this may still prove to be one of the faster and simpler ways to load a hopper. Great job thinking of this!

[Aeromech]

I'll be putting up a video as soon as I can. They work surprisingly well. Once I find an adequate pouch I'll be making a video.

[shmmee]

I really like the milk jug flap. The old method to plug shingles (Shingles have been the name I've most often seen applied to pre-loaded tubes)is to turn a 1/4" ring of 1/2" thin-wall PVC side ways and moosh it into the open end. It makes it a pain to re-load, and darts bounce out if you forget to plug it. Ring plugs are enough of a pain that it kills the efficiency gain from using a pre-loaded tube. The flap aught to be a good enough fix to compete with valves and dart doors. I've recently experimented with 3/4" Mcmaster PETG shingles. They're clear, extremely light weight and cheap. They also friction fit into irrigation (garden hose) fittings to adapt into 1/2" PVC. With your permission, I'll post a pic of them here. I bet your doors adapted onto PETG shingles will be a pretty big win. PETG shingles also sit reasonably well in the NERF bandolier elastics for an easy carry option.

[Nerf Gra]

PETG shingles also sit reasonably well in the NERF bandolier elastics for an easy carry option.

I like that idea quite a lot. I really like the bandolier or pistols rounds. Would be nice to have more use for it.

[Aeromech]

With your permission, I'll post a pic of them here. I bet your doors adapted onto PETG shingles will be a pretty big win.

Please do.

This is nice because when you need to reload the plastic arm can be pushed out of the way real easily. The curve of the 1/2" PVC then makes it spring back to a straight semi-cylindrical shape.

I'm looking around for a material that holds it's shape a little better than the milk jug plastic for the foot of the arm. My next attempt will be using a BBQ lighter to melt the plastic into the bent position.

[Nerf Gra]

Direct flame is a little hard to control when trying to soften plastic. You might be better off going with a dip in boiling water or something similar.

[shmmee]

3/4" petg shingles. The top end is plugged by a folded blank and hot glue, the petg friction fits into the 1/2" irrigation (garden hose) adaptor. It does require a short 1/2" pvc putt piece to stay in the wye. Light weight, cheap easy and clear! Reasonably sturdy, but not as solid as pvc (it wouldn't do well being sat on etc) but solid enough to withstand the avg punishments. Add your hatch, and it should be a solid option!

[UraniumMods]

You could possibly use plastic folders instead of the plastic from the milk bottles.

How finicky is loading one of these into a wye? When I try this I'm going to ream out the hole so the pipe fits in easier. *I know what your thinking, keep it together men*

[Crazy Modder]

I can't tell by the pictures, so was your pvc sch. 40 or sch.80? Sch. 40 seems more practical as there is a larger "ID" to allow more consistent drop of the sefans.