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Screws. One hidden under the slide. No big deal. A bunch of different sizes though, so stick them though a piece of paper with the blaster's outline drawn on, or leave them in the shell.
Guts. Pretty basic, really. Actually simpler than Recon by a vast margin, complexity is reduced via some pretty clever mechanical means. The plunger system actually uses a rodless SNAP style catch, unidirectional and super-low-mass. Remove the ammo feeder and the accessory clip. Easy to do, just pull up on the spring where it loops around the post, then slide the pusher away from the tube. Easy.
Get these two screws. Don't mix them with the shell screws.
Remove trigger pack and left mag/clip feedlip. It's pretty intuitive, even for a Chem Eng. (The joke is that Chem Engs can't do anything mechanical. Laugh.)
But this next bit, if you're a Chem Eng, you might struggle with. Pull the barrel off the slide. Then, pull up and away to clear the barrel from the dart tooth house, then slide the assembly
to your left at a diagonal to clear the shell.
Here's the trigger pack opened. Easy, just a screw on the left face and a bunch of tabs, some of which Mayor Maynut be glued slightly. A little brute force with a screwdriver fixed that. Just push on the angled part of the tip of the tab. Make the trigger pack look like this.
You should have all this stuff laid out on your table. Chuck it in the trash. Alternatively, feel free to throw it on the ground and feel like a lonely island.
Now, if you're a Chem Eng, I suggest you get someone to help you with this step. Unscrew the screw on the PT, and pull the spring off the post. You'll want to use your left thumb to hold the outer shell away so that you can twist the plunger assembly clockwise with your right hand, and have the tab clear it's locking space.
Twist the barrel 180* from it's original position, and place it like so.
Continue to this step while screaming racist insults at your Asian roomates. I suggest something like "Hey, can you help me with math?" This should be pretty self-explanatory.
Fucking magnets, how do they work?
Boil some water, pull this apart. MIG-grade muscles recommended. Wiggle it laterally, should help weaken the bonds. Might take multiple dunkings, but it's the cleanest way to do it. Dry up all the parts. Pull out the AR pad and spring. Remove the peg if desired. Clean up the glueshit with a file, sand it a little with ~100 grit sandpaper, throw some super glue on there, push it together.
Lube's gone. Throw some more in there. This stuff works pretty well, should be ~#2 on the list for every nerfer. This tube's lasted me for about 3 years now. Only stuff better in my book is Silicone Grease, but that stuff's more expensive per unit volume.
Reassemble the blaster. If you're so inept that you need specific directions for doing something in reverse of a described manner, then I suggest you find another hobby, like finger painting.
Ranges: No stock ranges taken. 3 shots, with darts landing at 47'-56' flat, as estimated by a car-lot space being ~8'.
Speculative notes on accuracy: These darts are great. With a 45' angle shot, darts deviated from "perfectly straight" at final range by 5' at most. At ~30 feet, aimed shots missed a 3" thick pole by mere inches, and occasionally hit dead on. I have no doubt that this blaster with this ammo will reliably perform center of mass shots at close engagement distances. If a near-perfect match were found for dart size in FBR, homemade darts would perform COM shots at full range reliably.
Springs: It is possible to replace the stock spring with a new spring, assuming one keeps the length nearly the same, the full-compression length the same, and the outer diameter the same. The inner diameter can be varied, but the spring peg at the back of the plunger would need to be shaven down to accommodate.
