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Maverick Range Issues

No, like, SERIOUS range issues...

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#1 Trajarian

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 11:29 AM

This is my Maverick:
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It's an ongoing project, as I still have a lot of mill-work, painting and cosmetic features to finish. My problem is that I have been working my ass off trying to get this gun to perform better to no avail. I have done the straw mod, removed the AR's, and done the turret drop mod. It get's less than 10' fired flat from shoulder height. I think this might be due to the sloppy rotation mechanism. I have noticed that the gun fires slightly before the turret holes line up with the PT. Is there any way to prevent this? Any comments, flames, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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#2 Drev

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 12:08 PM

To be honest here, it is a maverick and I wouldn't expect any more from one. Your problem is probably the seal between the turret and the plunger tube though. Cut a hole in some craft foam big enough for the plunger tube outlet and then glue it on. That should help your seal.
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#3 archangel24

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 01:40 PM

In Angel's writeup, he suggested putting (1x) Maverick AR spring between the front of the turret barrels and the front gray turret support piece. This method helps push the turret against the plunger tube to get a slightly better seal. As for the turret rotation, in CS's writeup, it was suggested that you glue the slip clutch in place and relocate the trigger spring to improve the rotation and barrel lineup. Refer to the exact writups and the pictures in them to see where and how to do each process.
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#4 Droid31

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 01:40 PM

you could also glue the clutch, but then you can spin the turret by hand, and i would also try what Drev said, or you could just cut you losses and get somthing other than a maverick because they suck, if you realy want a turret get a strongarm

Edited by Droid31, 06 April 2014 - 01:42 PM.

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#5 Blue

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 01:03 PM

When you say mill work, do you mean you have a machine that sands your blasters? Or are you hand sanding all of them? Either way they look good.

We can't really help you too much without internal pics of your blaster. The internal trigger spring reconfiguration is very important and consider gluing the slip clutch. Whenever I spin a mav cylinder or otherwise rotate the barrels I press the turret release button first anyways so you don't lose much functionality. Spring in the front piece of the turret makes a difference as well (between grey thing and turret) as it will push the turret back farther. I did just those mods with a removable turret (I find that the drop clip mod makes the blaster feel flimsy and is not effective for reloading) and was getting ranges decent enough to compete in more casual pistol rounds. Also, I'm guessing you know this already, but if you straight up removed the entire AR it will have no seal at all in the turret which could explain your ranges.
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#6 Trajarian

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 02:49 PM

I use a Dremel and a wide assortment of attachments to do my mill-work, mostly high speed cutters. I DO however have access to a full shop, with a lathe and drill press as well as other machinery. I used to do custom mill-work on paintball markers back in the early 2000's, so milling plastic isn't too hard. Just have to make sure you don't thin out the shell too much in structurally important areas. Once I get my cosmetic stuff and paint done the finished product should wow.

Edited by Trajarian, 07 April 2014 - 02:50 PM.

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#7 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 08 April 2014 - 01:31 AM

90% of modding a Maverick to perform well is to get lucky and find a Maverick that doesn't suck total ass to start with.

I've played with a ton of Mavericks and the best you can do is try to improve the seal with some plastic sheeting (such as with the tri-revolver Mavericks) and upgrade the spring. The straw mod is of questionable efficacy.
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