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Battery Port

A new use for the tactical rail

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#1 ferball

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 09:34 PM

I would not be surprised if this has already been done, but have not run across it, and it has some great potential. I wanted an easy way to mess with the batteries on my blaster with out having to take it apart all the time or alter the stock battery compartment. So I went through my box o' parts and found a stereo plug and jack leftover from a different project. The plug and jack are available at any radio shack for a few bucks so this does not require any thing exotic. The Blaster side port just has the leads of the jack soldered to the terminals of the battery compartment. The remote side I still have to mount and make look pretty but my plan is to gut some of my kids tactical rail add ons and use it as a battery back. This would help solve the problem of how to quickly change batteries in a war. A tac rail battery pack would be quick and easy to change. Enough of my rambling here are the pics. No how to, just a few pics any decent modder will get the idea.

Blaster and external battery

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Close up of port

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Bare bones battery pack will be inserted in tactical rail add on after I raid the toy box
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#2 azrael

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 04:04 PM

People have done with with 1/4" jacks, but I don't recommend it.
It's better to use something made for connecting batteries, like a Deans connector. It's an RC standard for high drain devices.

The 9V has poor current supply so this is probably fine. It probably cannot discharge enough current, nor do the motors demand that much at 9v.

Edited by azrael, 02 October 2013 - 04:04 PM.

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#3 Draconis

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 07:06 PM

It's an RC standard for high drain devices.


Yes, I do seem to remember your mother being equipped with one.


ON TOPIC: I have been working on building multiple cell Li-Ion tubes using a similar method. That way, you could move it from your Stryfe to your Stampede to your Rapidstrike.
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#4 azrael

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 07:15 PM

ON TOPIC: I have been working on building multiple cell Li-Ion tubes using a similar method. That way, you could move it from your Stryfe to your Stampede to your Rapidstrike.

Care to explain? I don't see how this is different a dedicated battery pack and easily removable connector, like a Deans.
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#5 Draconis

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 02:44 PM

It would allow a more modular cell setup using 14500s or 18650s. I happen to like 18650s a LOT because they are able to be rescued from discarded laptop batteries very inexpensively. How much do you pay for LiPo packs? $20-60? Yeah, I paid $2.20 for the 10.8V 95WH battery sitting next to me. A single cell is great for flashlights, laser pointers, and low voltage electronics. Three cells are great for most flywheel blasters. If you have one cell in your LiPo pack die, what do you do? Replace the entire unit, right? I recycle the one bad cell and pop in another.
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#6 azrael

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 05:33 PM

I never said LiPo. There is a certain incendiary tone you have in your post, and I don't understand why.
There are plenty of people who use 18650 packs, and the question I asked was applicable to them.

I just didn't understand the tubular method, as opposed to something like this:
Posted Image
18650s, I believe, and a deans connector. Courtesy of torukmakto4.

EDIT: FWIW, Though I applaud your effort to recycle, it is reasonable to wonder how much life is left in a battery rescued from a discarded laptop battery. It is entirely possible that your 18650s no longer have that much current capacity. A battery's life is finite. I would suggest attempting to measure them during a discharge cycle.

Edited by azrael, 03 October 2013 - 05:50 PM.

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#7 Draconis

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 06:35 PM

I never said LiPo. There is a certain incendiary tone you have in your post, and I don't understand why.
There are plenty of people who use 18650 packs, and the question I asked was applicable to them.


The pictures you post include LiPo batteries and never cells.

I just didn't understand the tubular method, as opposed to something like this: {deleted for brevity}
18650s, I believe, and a deans connector. Courtesy of torukmakto4.


Great, lump me in with THAT guy. The tube style was clipping directly to the N-Strike rail, and retained the ability to charge or discard individual cells. Packs require a specialized charger for that voltage, which are far more expensive than the basic individual cell chargers.

EDIT: FWIW, Though I applaud your effort to recycle, it is reasonable to wonder how much life is left in a battery rescued from a discarded laptop battery. It is entirely possible that your 18650s no longer have that much current capacity. A battery's life is finite. I would suggest attempting to measure them during a discharge cycle.


Congratulations. While you were wondering how long the life of the cells is, I swapped out three more and shot you in the face. Seriously, if it gives up or performs poorly, recycle it! Use one of the myriad others available. The reason that most laptop batteries fail is that there is one bank of cells which is not in balance with the others, so the circuit stops charging it. That means the other two or three banks have perfectly good cells.
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#8 azrael

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 09:19 PM

The pictures you post include LiPo batteries and never cells.

But I didn't in this post. I asked a very reasonable and general question.
Additionally, I've posted one topic with that - and the reasons why I use them and why I advocate them is absolutely reasonable. There are other high current discharge alternatives, and I recognize that. LiPo is not the only answer, but it's a reasonable one, one that provides the lowest internal battery resistance and thus the lowest voltage sag under high loads. Many lithium ion cells in a 4s or 16.8V configuration may drop to something as low as 6-7V under high current loads like our needs - which then becomes very little overvolting and thus, low performance increase.
I'm not gonna get more into it, I didn't bring up Lithium Polymer batteries here, nor did I intend to.

Great, lump me in with THAT guy. The tube style was clipping directly to the N-Strike rail, and retained the ability to charge or discard individual cells. Packs require a specialized charger for that voltage, which are far more expensive than the basic individual cell chargers.

Cool, see this is the answer I was looking for. Easy as hell to just answer it instead of getting overly defensive about something that wasn't even an issue.
Now I have a clear idea about the modification you were outlining.
One could just as easily do the same thing with an external battery holder and a proper high current connector, like a Deans.

I'm concerned about possible short circuits with headphone or 1/4" jack power setups like these. It's very easily possible - and I'm betting there is a relatively high resistance across the contact for this setup, too.

Congratulations. While you were wondering how long the life of the cells is, I swapped out three more and shot you in the face. Seriously, if it gives up or performs poorly, recycle it! Use one of the myriad others available. The reason that most laptop batteries fail is that there is one bank of cells which is not in balance with the others, so the circuit stops charging it. That means the other two or three banks have perfectly good cells.

That's a super mature response. Again, I bring up a completely valid and reasonable concern - I don't think there's anything wrong with it.
Measuring battery performance is something commonly done among people who try and keep batteries safe and working well. "Performs poorly" may not be something that you can easily notice without measuring.

FWIW, batteries in laptops are also often not high current discharge cells, or high burst. High discharge current is something we want in battery cells to keep up with the stall current needs of overvolted motors. You might be able to figure it out if you find the model number and measure the discharge cycle, I believe. In a mostly stock system, in terms of voltage, they're probably okay - but I can't say for sure.

I'm trying to have a discussion here, and just because I don't have the same stature as you on YouTube or within the NIC doesn't mean that my opinion is invalid, or that my concerns are unreasonable. Safety and performance are what matters to me, and my questions reflected this.

Edited by azrael, 05 October 2013 - 09:21 PM.

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#9 Draconis

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 01:54 AM

But I didn't in this post. I asked a very reasonable and general question.
Additionally, I've posted one topic with that - and the reasons why I use them and why I advocate them is absolutely reasonable. There are other high current discharge alternatives, and I recognize that. LiPo is not the only answer, but it's a reasonable one, one that provides the lowest internal battery resistance and thus the lowest voltage sag under high loads. Many lithium ion cells in a 4s or 16.8V configuration may drop to something as low as 6-7V under high current loads like our needs - which then becomes very little overvolting and thus, low performance increase.
I'm not gonna get more into it, I didn't bring up Lithium Polymer batteries here, nor did I intend to.


You exert more effort than flywheel blasters deserve. I use the Li-Ion cells because they are superior to the stock alkaline, are cheaper, rechargeable, and they are versatile. Not because they are the absolute best power source.

Cool, see this is the answer I was looking for. Easy as hell to just answer it instead of getting overly defensive about something that wasn't even an issue.


You've made a much bigger affair of this than I had ever intended. I was just in it for the quick joke and the heygoodjobthinkingoutsideoftheboxI'mdoingsomethingsimilarthatyoumayfindhelpful. But hey, if you're already boarding the train to Crazytown, I can always catch a cab back from there later.

Now I have a clear idea about the modification you were outlining.
One could just as easily do the same thing with an external battery holder and a proper high current connector, like a Deans.


Yes, though I can buy CPVC from ReStore for $0.10 per foot. Yep, lots of usable connectors. Like spade connectors, which are literally a dime per dozen.

I'm concerned about possible short circuits with headphone or 1/4" jack power setups like these. It's very easily possible - and I'm betting there is a relatively high resistance across the contact for this setup, too.


Yeah, that's probably not the best connector.


That's a super mature response. Again, I bring up a completely valid and reasonable concern - I don't think there's anything wrong with it.
Measuring battery performance is something commonly done among people who try and keep batteries safe and working well. "Performs poorly" may not be something that you can easily notice without measuring.


I aim high with my humor. Remember, this community is mostly kids, and ALL of us are playing with toys. I don't want to alienate my audience.

FWIW, batteries in laptops are also often not high current discharge cells, or high burst. High discharge current is something we want in battery cells to keep up with the stall current needs of overvolted motors. You might be able to figure it out if you find the model number and measure the discharge cycle, I believe. In a mostly stock system, in terms of voltage, they're probably okay - but I can't say for sure.


I'm trying to have a discussion here, and just because I don't have the same stature as you on YouTube or within the NIC doesn't mean that my opinion is invalid, or that my concerns are unreasonable. Safety and performance are what matters to me, and my questions reflected this.


Lol, NIC Stature! I don't post videos because people should read more often, nor have I delusions of Nosferatu. You have mistaken my responses as personally combative, rather than what could be more accurately described as "generally sphincteresque."
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#10 azrael

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 11:45 AM

Haha, okay, sure.

If you're going to really think that jumping down my throat for something I didn't mention here, but have mentioned in another topic months ago isn't personally combative, then sure, you win.
There's nothing wrong with seeking good performance. Just because you ignore certain facts about electronic blasters like voltage sag or internal resistance, and just casually brush them off doesn't mean they don't matter, and other people aren't fools for trying to working around them. Plenty of other people out there care about performance enough to choose good batteries, and they're not crazy for doing so, or "putting in too much work". Our whole hobby is technically "putting in too much work" - building home made blasters, brass breeches, pneumatic rocket launchers, etc....etc....

It's great to use common materials, but you shouldn't treat everything that is properly rated for some task as something foolish. One should always aim to use proper connectors, it's not like they cost excessive amounts of money. Deans connectors, for example, are pretty cheap. When I'm suggesting these connectors, I'm not saying YOU in particular, I'm saying it for anyone who might read this topic.

There isn't anything wrong for discussion, and I'm sorry I don't agree with your "cheap and easy" methods. Proper batteries and safety can also be achieved for cheap, if you are willing to put in the effort. Not all LiPos or IMR batteries are expensive, Deans connectors are not expensive, properly rated wiring isn't hard. :)

Good day, sir!
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#11 Draconis

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 02:05 PM

If you're going to really think that jumping down my throat for something I didn't mention here, but have mentioned in another topic months ago isn't personally combative, then sure, you win.


I don't remember jumping down your throat, I remember explaining why the bundled nature of batteries make less sense to me than individual cells.

There's nothing wrong with seeking good performance. Just because you ignore certain facts about electronic blasters like voltage sag or internal resistance, and just casually brush them off doesn't mean they don't matter, and other people aren't fools for trying to working around them. Plenty of other people out there care about performance enough to choose good batteries, and they're not crazy for doing so, or "putting in too much work". Our whole hobby is technically "putting in too much work" - building home made blasters, brass breeches, pneumatic rocket launchers, etc....etc....


I'm trying to explain that flywheel blasters are not worth the effort because they are noisy and inelegant. Just because Hasbro makes them now doesn't make them any more cool than they used to be. It just makes them N-Strike clip compatible.

It's great to use common materials, but you shouldn't treat everything that is properly rated for some task as something foolish. One should always aim to use proper connectors, it's not like they cost excessive amounts of money. Deans connectors, for example, are pretty cheap. When I'm suggesting these connectors, I'm not saying YOU in particular, I'm saying it for anyone who might read this topic.


Let us make one thing clear, here. Dean's connectors were designed to have the a maximum of contact area with the lowest mass and resistance possible for applications where it matters. That means flying RC stuff, mostly. They are not any better than spade terminals, but they certainly weigh less for a given current rating. But so what? Even if you had ten such connections in a blaster, could you reasonably tell the difference? Can you buy Dean's terminals at every hardware, department, drug, home goods, and (often times) grocery store in your town? Then why would I bother ordering online or driving to the over-priced RC hobby shop?

There isn't anything wrong for discussion, and I'm sorry I don't agree with your "cheap and easy" methods.


Hey, your mom needs love too.

Proper batteries and safety can also be achieved for cheap, if you are willing to put in the effort. Not all LiPos or IMR batteries are expensive, Deans connectors are not expensive, properly rated wiring isn't hard.


I'll let you know when one of my cells bursts in to flames.
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#12 azrael

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 03:02 PM

I don't remember jumping down your throat, I remember explaining why the bundled nature of batteries make less sense to me than individual cells.

How much do you pay for LiPo packs? $20-60?

The pictures you post include LiPo batteries and never cells.
...
Congratulations. While you were wondering how long the life of the cells is, I swapped out three more and shot you in the face.

This is being snarky and putting words into my mouth, when I never mentioned LiPos and asked a very reasonable question, which had a very simple answer. Unwarranted, when I was just trying to have a discussion. I wanted to know about your system, and you immediately attack the system that I use, even I wasn't comparing or bringing mine up.
You didn't even explain it initially, you just assumed I was talking about LiPos, when I just wanted to know exactly what you meant.
What you're proposing isn't a bad idea at all, assuming you have a good end cap system (I don't like battery springs for high current applications). It is certainly easier for the average person to DIY than to make their own battery pack (which is still DIY-able FWIW), and as such is a viable system.

I'll let you know when one of my cells bursts in to flames.

Never said it would. :)

I'm trying to explain that flywheel blasters are not worth the effort because they are noisy and inelegant. Just because Hasbro makes them now doesn't make them any more cool than they used to be. It just makes them N-Strike clip compatible.

You're specifically saying that the way I do things is not worth it. You're saying it's not worth it to wire something that can potentially draw a lot of current properly. Why not provide motors with the current they're asking for? Why not have a battery that has high capacity? Why not use low resistance wiring? Why not use batteries that don't drop significantly in voltage when under load? If your answer is, "well because it's easier the other way", then that's your call. But it doesn't mean it's not worth the effort. If I'm enjoying the results I get, and feel comfortable with my blaster, then it's worth it.

Let us make one thing clear, here. Dean's connectors were designed to have the a maximum of contact area with the lowest mass and resistance possible for applications where it matters. That means flying RC stuff, mostly. They are not any better than spade terminals, but they certainly weigh less for a given current rating. But so what? Even if you had ten such connections in a blaster, could you reasonably tell the difference? Can you buy Dean's terminals at every hardware, department, drug, home goods, and (often times) grocery store in your town? Then why would I bother ordering online or driving to the over-priced RC hobby shop?

I find Deans to be much safer and easier to plug and unplug and a spade connector. So yes, I can tell a difference. Especially one Deans connector over two spades.
Again, performance and safety are what matters to me. If you just want something cheap that works, then by all means. Again, this discussion isn't for specifically for you - a lot of people read the forums and might get the wrong idea. It's good to provide dissenting opinions and encourage thinking about why we do what we do.

They're an RC standard for high current devices. A flywheel system or electric direct plunger can pull a non-insignificant amount of current. It's like your only argument against proper wiring is, "Well, this is easy! So you're wrong!"
You can do whatever you want, but it doesn't mean that what I'm saying is wrong.

Edited by azrael, 09 October 2013 - 03:04 PM.

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#13 Draconis

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 02:16 AM

This is being snarky and putting words into my mouth


You're right, I wouldn't want to overload you, given all the genitals which already reside there.

when I never mentioned LiPos and asked a very reasonable question, which had a very simple answer. Unwarranted, when I was just trying to have a discussion. I wanted to know about your system, and you immediately attack the system that I use, even I wasn't comparing or bringing mine up.
You didn't even explain it initially, you just assumed I was talking about LiPos, when I just wanted to know exactly what you meant.


Wait, so you've only ever shown evidence of using LiPo packs, you confirm that you do actually use them, you extoll the virtues of equipment used on said packs... But I shouldn't jump to the conclusion? I should just wait for you to tell us again the things in this thread that you have already said in others? I apologize wholeheartedly for having the ability to remember a few things. It really is a curse. My boss totally hates when I am able to spout off the part number for the valve cover gasket set he needs to reorder, without looking it up. Finally, I wasn't attacking your system, just comparing. Freud would say that you are overly sensitive about it because you know that your logic is flawed. I think LiPo batteries are marvels of mechanical and chemical engineering, and I have great respect for the power they afford. But I don't want to buy them because I am a cheap sonofabitch. I was only attempting to compare the relative values.

What you're proposing isn't a bad idea at all, assuming you have a good end cap system (I don't like battery springs for high current applications). It is certainly easier for the average person to DIY than to make their own battery pack (which is still DIY-able FWIW), and as such is a viable system.


Yes, it is easy. And I'm not going to pick the low-hanging fruit, because I am better than that. I have standards, unlike your mother.


You're specifically saying that the way I do things is not worth it. You're saying it's not worth it to wire something that can potentially draw a lot of current properly. Why not provide motors with the current they're asking for? Why not have a battery that has high capacity? Why not use low resistance wiring? Why not use batteries that don't drop significantly in voltage when under load? If your answer is, "well because it's easier the other way", then that's your call. But it doesn't mean it's not worth the effort. If I'm enjoying the results I get, and feel comfortable with my blaster, then it's worth it.


Congratulations on having more free time and money than you know what to do with. How about this... You pick a flywheel blaster that we can each mod, and bring them to Armageddon in June. Then we can compare relative performance and overall cost.


I find Deans to be much safer and easier to plug and unplug and a spade connector. So yes, I can tell a difference. Especially one Deans connector over two spades.

Again, performance and safety are what matters to me. If you just want something cheap that works, then by all means. Again, this discussion isn't for specifically for you - a lot of people read the forums and might get the wrong idea. It's good to provide dissenting opinions and encourage thinking about why we do what we do.


You have a very strange threshold for perceived safety. We are not dealing with high voltage here. Some of us do what we do because we are awesome. Some because they read about what people use in miniature vehicles that sometimes cost more than full-sized vehicles and expect that it is the best idea.

They're an RC standard for high current devices. A flywheel system or electric direct plunger can pull a non-insignificant amount of current. It's like your only argument against proper wiring is, "Well, this is easy! So you're wrong!"


I dislike how you equate connectors with wiring. Wire gauge should certainly be increased from the stock size if the voltage is increased. But even then there is no reason for us to be preparing for our plastic toys to be pulling 50+ Amps. We shouldn't encourage crap like that. Well made, properly sized automotive spade terminals are capable of safely transferring power at up to 600 Volts, with well over the current capacity of the wire gauge which they are designed to accept. Here, read about gauges.


You can do whatever you want, but it doesn't mean that what I'm saying is wrong.


No, not wrong, so much as elitist and pedantic. Unlike your mother, who is completist and tantric.
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#14 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 09:22 AM

God forbid someone be wrong on the internet.
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#15 azrael

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 10:54 AM

You're right, I wouldn't want to overload you, given all the genitals which already reside there.

Cool dude, thanks.

Congratulations on having more free time and money than you know what to do with. How about this... You pick a flywheel blaster that we can each mod, and bring them to Armageddon in June. Then we can compare relative performance and overall cost.

More money than I know what to do with? I don't spend that much money on this hobby. You're really exaggerating.
Listen, I'm trying to have a discussion here, and I think we both have some valid points. What you're doing is called ad hominem, and it's a logical fallacy.


Wait, so you've only ever shown evidence of using LiPo packs, you confirm that you do actually use them, you extoll the virtues of equipment used on said packs... But I shouldn't jump to the conclusion? I should just wait for you to tell us again the things in this thread that you have already said in others? I apologize wholeheartedly for having the ability to remember a few things. It really is a curse. My boss totally hates when I am able to spout off the part number for the valve cover gasket set he needs to reorder, without looking it up. Finally, I wasn't attacking your system, just comparing. Freud would say that you are overly sensitive about it because you know that your logic is flawed. I think LiPo batteries are marvels of mechanical and chemical engineering, and I have great respect for the power they afford. But I don't want to buy them because I am a cheap sonofabitch. I was only attempting to compare the relative values.

Yeah, you shouldn't have just assumed and jumped down my throat, because I was asking a valid question.
While I do have LiPos, I also have Li-ions for testing, some IMRs are on the way, etc...etc...

"Freud would say that you are overly sensitive about it because you know that your logic is flawed." Projecting your own feelings, maybe?

"But I don't want to buy them because I am a cheap sonofabitch. I was only attempting to compare the relative values." There are plenty of LiPos that are cheap and have as much battery capacity as a normal lithium battery. Please stop bringing up price. There are also a lot of other options which I advocate that have superior power capabilities (NiCd, IMR, LIFePosomething, etc....) that are not that expensive.

You have a very strange threshold for perceived safety. We are not dealing with high voltage here. Some of us do what we do because we are awesome. Some because they read about what people use in miniature vehicles that sometimes cost more than full-sized vehicles and expect that it is the best idea.

I dislike how you equate connectors with wiring. Wire gauge should certainly be increased from the stock size if the voltage is increased. But even then there is no reason for us to be preparing for our plastic toys to be pulling 50+ Amps. We shouldn't encourage crap like that. Well made, properly sized automotive spade terminals are capable of safely transferring power at up to 600 Volts, with well over the current capacity of the wire gauge which they are designed to accept. Here, read about gauges.

You're kidding, right? 1A is more than enough to kill you. You have a strange threshold for safety. Our motors easily hit that at stall, I would guess, even when only overvolted to 8-9v. Spade connectors, the kind that are insulated (and thus safe) cannot be soldered. They're not even meant to be constantly disconnected - they have a high amount of motility to their connector, and thus will get bent easily, and fail. If you don't think that, you don't use spade connectors enough - I've had to replace them many spade connectors due to poor connections (Read, high resistance through poor contact). They're not designed to be disconnected several times - you set and forget. More over, if you want to use the insulated ones, you have to crimp them on. That's going to fail under high stress, too. Notice I never said that spade connectors couldn't handle current - that's stupid, of course they can. They're used in industrial applications. But they're not optimized to be used in this way.

And no, it's not like we're making these things pull 50A. That's just silly, it would melt the plastic. There's no way to dissipate that kind of heat in our system. But spade connectors are NOT as safe as something like a Deans connector. God forbid I make something safe using something that is insulated, has low resistance contacts, and contacts that are meant to be pulled apart over many cycles. F me, right?

But hey, spade connectors, cool, right. That's why people use them in applications like RC or Airsoft. Right.

No, not wrong, so much as elitist and pedantic. Unlike your mother, who is completist and tantric.

Cool dude. Your mom jokes haven't been funny in years. Like "that's what she said", it's a cliche that only people who aren't clever use. Don't be that guy.


Listen, you've got your own POV, I've got mine. If you really think your method is safe and repeatable, then cool. I don't. I disagree. And I think that's allowed on a forum. There's nothing wrong with using proper methods - embrace progress, don't shun it because it's different from what you do. I'm not trying to convince you, again, but a lot of people read this forum, and I would rather that they don't use spade terminals to connect anything in Nerf.

Edited by azrael, 10 October 2013 - 10:57 AM.

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#16 Draconis

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 11:11 AM

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[15:51] <+Noodle> titties
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?

#17 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 09:48 PM

It's only funny when I do it.
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#18 Hammy

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 08:54 PM

People have done with with 1/4" jacks, but I don't recommend it.
It's better to use something made for connecting batteries, like a Deans connector. It's an RC standard for high drain devices.

The 9V has poor current supply so this is probably fine. It probably cannot discharge enough current, nor do the motors demand that much at 9v.



I agree with this, 1/4 inch, 3.5mm, 2.5mm jacks are for audio applications.
As one inserts the jack, then there is a high reality that the tip and ring are briefly shorted by the internals of the socket.
You may get away wiih this for normal alkaline cells, but Lipo's and Trustfires will not be so forgiving.

Also, a live power source should be a female connector, so the terminals are not exposed.

Use connectors that are designed for connecting power sources.

Edited by Hammy, 15 October 2013 - 06:54 AM.

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#19 azrael

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 03:38 AM

I agree with this, 1/4 inch, 3.5mm, 2.5mm jacks are for audio applications.
As one inserts the jack, then there is a high reality that the tip and ring are briefly shorted by the internals of the socket as one inserts the plug.

Exactly my thoughts. :)
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