6 replies to this topic

[Physicsman]

This modification works but it was a little slapstick.

This modification allows you to plug in a battery pack that can be used with or instead of the internal batteries. It also give you the option to add the voltage of the external batteries to that of the internal batteries. This modification only needs to be done to the battery tray thus eliminating the need to open the blaster. Though I did remove all the safeties so a prolonged overvolt on an un-moded blaster might cause the thermistor to cut out the motors.



To do this I use an DPDT switch and a mono headphone jack along with wire, solder, hot glue, tools, etc..

Here is the wiring diagram I drew up.



Here is the link to the album showing a few stages of install: http://imgur.com/a/lthrB

This required electrically isolating the contacts on the outside of the tray from two new contacts placed right on top of the stock ones.

Here is a brief video demonstrating the finished concept:

Edited by Physicsman, 16 August 2013 - 01:34 AM.

[Zorns Lemma]

Looks good! You should also embed a photo of what it looks like and not just the diagram so someone glancing at this knows what you're talking about (this is a good candidate: http://imgur.com/a/lthrB#poIYfAT but I don't have access to the imgur generated thumbnail sized bbcode and I don't want to embed a million pixel image)

[Physicsman]

Looks good! You should also embed a photo of what it looks like and not just the diagram so someone glancing at this knows what you're talking about (this is a good candidate: http://imgur.com/a/lthrB#poIYfAT but I don't have access to the imgur generated thumbnail sized bbcode and I don't want to embed a million pixel image)

Thank you.

[LinkMT]

Very interesting mod. In my time modding, I've never seen anything quite like it... makes me wonder if it could be done to other blasters.

[azrael]

LinkMT, actually, other people have done similar things to other blasters. You will need a switch rated for the appropriate amount of stall current though, so it doesn't blow.
I'll see if I can measure the stall and continuous current at high voltages soon.

Edited by azrael, 16 August 2013 - 01:22 PM.

[Physicsman]

LinkMT, actually, other people have done similar things to other blasters. You will need a switch rated for the appropriate amount of stall current though, so it doesn't blow.
I'll see if I can measure the stall and continuous current at high voltages soon.

Most switches I've seen of this size are rated around 6 amps. That is a contentious load rating. It would likely handle a larger current for the breif periods over which a motor draws stall current when they rev up.

[azrael]

That's pretty good. I wasn't sure how much it was rated for, I can only see one side after all, and it doesn't look that big. Most toggles I have seen that are a wee bit smaller are only rated for 2A, so yeah.

I wasn't doubting your work, just mentioning a point of interest people need to take into consideration.