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Range Master/Raider Integration Write-up


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#1 xXhunter47Xx

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 11:59 AM

Lonely on a Friday night? The raider you promised that you would mod is still stock? Go to your local target and buy yourself a Buzz Bee Range Master, cut up your beautiful raider/rampage body and do nasty things to it. In this tutorial, I will have already assumed that you have removed the air restrictor from you range master. It doesn’t make a large difference in range, the air restrictor is really just a dart post.
Also some terminology that will be used a lot in this write up:
Assembly: refers to the pump and bolt from the range master
Bolt Handle/Handle: The external handle seen on the external as well as its affiliates
Firing Pin: The pin that is supposed to be depressed to release air.


Holy fuck is this going to be cheap blaster. You can buy raiders without all the parts on ebay for $5, and it's $20 for the range master. You can definitely get away with just those two, but I recommend putting a brass barrel or if a hopper clip works putting those.

#1 Absolutely necessary materials
1. Pliers
2. Some sort of cutting device that is capable of cutting thin plastic
3. Screwdriver
4. Hot glue
5. Dremel
6. Range Master internals
7. Raider Shell

Optional:
1. Brass (1/2" and 17/32" to create el ghetto breach)
2. Hopper Clip and PETG

To start off, gut your raider/rampage. You can cut off the front end, or dremel out a loading door using this outline:

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Just cut out a rectangle here and sand it down, it is mainly for your testing phase before you decide to make a barrel or pvc breech or something.

Next, you’ll want to open up the shell to grind stuff down.
You’ll want to grind off all the plastic shown in this picture here:

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That is all the modification you will need for the raider.
Now onto the Range Master. The range master has this pesky orange tip that is one piece and glued on, which is terrible for taking apart. Since the shell serves no purpose to you, you can snap the shell open after you remove all the screws on the outside. I was planning on repurposing it sometime in the future so I used a hot knife and made a seam down the same seam line of the blaster. Once you have it open, you will see the orange bolt assembly and pump. Take that out.
That is all you will need for this integration. For the rest of the parts, there are useful springs and screws on the inside that I have saved for later projects, seen here. The tension springs can be used for return springs on a +bow or something of that sort. Be wary, some screws are stripped from the factory. Buzzbee sucks at assembling.

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After you have taken the bolt assembly and pump out of the range master, and have scavenged all the springs and screws, you can now throw the shell out or keep it. Torch the scope, barrel, and bipod. They serve absolutely no functional use. Good kindle for starting a fire. There are a couple modifications you will need to do to the bolt first before it will fit in the raider. First, you may have noticed on the range master that there is a “handle” that is attached to the bolt to help it easily pump when in the blaster. For this purpose, you will not need it. The handle is attached by a pin; you will not miss it when you take out the assembly. Pop the pin out, and then cut away the plastic until your assembly is similar to this:

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EDIT: 8/8/2013: You will NEED to do this in order for your range master to get the most out of it's ranges. Cut the tip off the barrel where the lines stop, as seen here:
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I used a pipe cutter, you can use whatever. Just make sure you cut where the lines stop, not the entire barrel.
Then smash all the plastic on the inside. After you ripped out the peg there should be a black piece, this is the real air restrictor. Rip everything out until the barrel is free of plastic, but don't rip out too far. You just want the majority of the peg and the black springy piece. Then create a brass breech from this write-up here.

http://nerfhaven.com...=1

But don't buy the couplers, you will want some sort of CPVC/PVC to hold the brass inside the raider shell instead. :)

The blaster is now somewhat hard to prime with just the round pump in the back. Make a handle out of a 1/2" PVC T-Pipe. Etape the pump until it fits snugly into the tee.
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Here’s the fun part; fitting it! Make sure to mark everything well so you know where to put it. First of all, you will want to pump the range master 1 or 2 times to firm up the firing pin. If you don’t understand, trust me, it will make it easier. Then, place the assembly into the slot, making sure to line up the firing pin to the edge of the trigger as far as it will go without firing. Here is a picture that will give you a bigger idea of what is happening:

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As seen in the picture, the firing pin is firm and pressed as far as possible onto the trigger without setting it off. The handle for the bolt is aligned like that to provide more stability and alignment. Make sure everything is centered, and then mark where the handle touches the raider shell and where the pump shaft touches the shell.

Snack break yo, check yoself before you wreck yoself

Okay, after your snack break, align everything up again, the same way as it was before you marked everything. The markings are supposed to be an approximation and should be used only for ease of placement. Again, make sure everything is centered. This is now the “testing/prototype” phase. You’ll want to tape everything down with duct tape or something before you glue it down.

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Put the raider together and load it, pump it. Gently though, do not want to rip the tape. Once it is centered to your liking you can now hot glue or use epoxy to hold everything down and remove the tape.
You are pretty much done with your Range Raider. From here, you can chop off the front end or leave the breech made in the beginning.

Ranges are better than my 9v Stryfe, at about hip height it's hitting 40' with elite darts, and with my slugs only a little more than 60', albeit more accurately. Most likely because I failed at making slugs. The power of this is almost enough to break a slug on a wall at close range. This blaster could be NIC worthy if a hopper fits and works.

EDIT 8/16/13: Hoppered the bitch. Works fine. Epoxy broke on the rear, gonna need more of that shit slathered on, but blaster still works fine.
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Edit: 8/8/2013 I added new parts that would be necessary to your modification.

Edited by xXhunter47Xx, 17 August 2013 - 11:48 PM.

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#2 Spud Spudoni

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 12:23 PM

Nice write-up, but put some damn pants on next time..
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#3 Duke Wintermaul

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 02:03 PM

I like it. The Range Master (Orion) is an interesting blaster, and i'm always a fan of shell swaps.

However, i hate the idea of just hot gluing the internals into the blaster. I also dislike the materials you used, a water bottle cap? It just seems haphazard.
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#4 xXhunter47Xx

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 10:47 PM

And since Duke says hot glue is bad, I'm going with epoxy so I have to buy some tomorrow.

In the meantime it is in a recon shell

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#5 Exo

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:02 AM

First off, this is a front-loading blaster design, correct? Whatever the answer, that has no actual importance, just my personal curiosity.

Second of all, unless you live in the South with temps hot enough to soften hotglue in the summer, hotglue will work fine for what you are doing here. Smother that bitch in that stuff, and it WILL hold. Hotglue is the original 3D printer. It's not glue, it's more like concrete.

And lastly, the waterbottle cap. Fuck anyone who says else, Fugly is a Feature. Duke, if a man wants to use some part that he finds lying around, he's gonna do so. You should be chased by TaerKitty a few times, and you'd realize how effective "haphazard" can be.

Edited by Exo, 01 August 2013 - 12:05 AM.

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#6 xXhunter47Xx

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 01:45 AM

Exo; it is a front loading blaster correct. That is why I had the step to dremel out a breech to load it. I came up with the dremel breech after my testing phase.
I live in the exact same area as you do, so I'm not sure if the hot glue will melt but AFAIK hot glue's melting temp is really high and with the temperature that we have now I don't think that's going to happen.
Also, the bottle cap idea was scrapped due to the fact that it will not stay on no matter how hard I try.
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#7 Exo

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 08:23 AM

Then you're fine with hotglue. No need to go overboard for this application, unless you're supes rich. As for the pump stop, try something that's wider, so that you don't have to flare it. Maybe a PVC cap or plug?
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#8 xXhunter47Xx

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 02:22 PM

Then you're fine with hotglue. No need to go overboard for this application, unless you're supes rich. As for the pump stop, try something that's wider, so that you don't have to flare it. Maybe a PVC cap or plug?


PVC Cap sounds good.
I'm still going with liquid epoxy, I don't want hot glue gun tip on my plastic.

I'll be trying to get a pvc breech going on, there's nowhere near me that sells just brass tubing
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#9 xXhunter47Xx

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Posted 02 August 2013 - 10:21 PM

Edited OP to accommodate mistakes I have made.

Edited by xXhunter47Xx, 08 August 2013 - 10:38 PM.

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#10 xXhunter47Xx

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 01:47 AM

Posted Image

Here she is, all finished with ghetto brass breech.

What I feel stupid about is that I just spent about $30 on brass when I could've made a hopper out of PETG and whatnot.
Next on the list, making a hopper. This is a truly NIC worthy blaster if I can hopper it, the ranges are outstanding. I hit a stop sign across the street from my front door, diagonally. I almost got run over trying to find the slug. I'm guestimating about 75' with a plugged pump at 5 pumps.

I'm sorry to mods and anybody following this thread for it's broken nature, but this is like a write-up in progress kind of.
I have the main idea, yet I always try new things.

Posted Image

And here it is hoppered.

Anyways extremely sorry for all the modifications I'm making to the write-up, but it's for the best. This blaster is pretty much a panther but easier to find.

Upon further inspection it's only hitting about 50' shoulder with stock darts and maybe 70' at best with poorly made slugs. Ranges are a little less with the hopper, but that's fine I guess.

Edited by xXhunter47Xx, 16 August 2013 - 04:46 PM.

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